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Home My WebLink AboutBowers Siding Product ApprovalFlorida Building Code Online Page 1 of 5 Nr BCIS Home ;Log In User Registration HotTopics I SubmitSurcharge Stats&Fac[s Publications Contact UsBCIS Site Map Links Search d AW4� Product Approval I USER: Public User Product Apcmwil Menu > Product or Application Search > Application List > Application Detail FL # L FL12192-R6 j Application Type Revision Code Version 2017 Application StatusApproved *Approved by DBPR. Approvals by DBPR shall be reviewed and ratified by the POC and/or the Commission if necessary. Comments Archived Product Manufacturer KAYCAN LTD Address/Phone/Email 1 Memorial Drive Richford, VT 05476 (662) 252-9991 Ext 231 joe.lundine@kpproducts.com Authorized Signature Joe Lundine joe.lundine@kpproducts.com Technical Representative Joe Lundine Address/Phone/Email 402 Boyer St Williston, VT 05495 (662) 252-9991 joe.lundine@kpproducts.com Quality Assurance Representative Joe Lundine Address/Phone/Email 402 Boyer St Williston, VT 05495 (662) 252-9991 joe.lundine@kpproducts.com Category Panel Walls Subcategory Siding Compliance Method Evaluation Report from a Product Evaluation Entity Evaluation Entity ICC Evaluation Service, LLC Quality Assurance Entity Architectural Testing, Inc., an Intertek Company Quality Assurance Contract Expiration Date 12/31/2020 Validated By Robert J. Amoruso, P.E. Validation Checklist - Hardcopy Received Certificate of Independence FL12192 R6 COI ICC Certificate of Independence.odf Referenced Standard and Year (of Standard) Standard Year ASTM D3679 2011 Equivalence of Product Standards Certified By Sections from the Code https:/lwww.floridabuilding.org/pr/pr_app_dtl.aspx?param=wGEVXQwtDquk24AUC%2f... 4/21/2020 Florida Building Code Online Product Approval Method Date Submitted Date Validated Date Pending FBC Approval Date Approved Method 1 Option C 12/03/2018 12/03/2018 12/04/2018 Page 2 of 5 Summary of Products Go to Page E- _ Pagel / 2 FL # Model, Number or Name Description 12192.1 Board & Batten Single 7" Vertical Siding Limits of Use Installation Instructions Approved for use in HVHZ: No FL12192 R6 II Kavcan Installation.pdf Approved for use outside HVHZ: Yes Verified By: ICC Evaluation Service, LLC Impact Resistant: N/A Created by Independent Third Party: Design Pressure: +0/-70 Evaluation Reports Other: Design Pressure Rating applicable to negative 1"112192 R6 AE ESR-1495.Ddf direction only. Installed only on exterior walls over solid Other: Design Pressure Rating applicable to negative sheathing capable of withstanding the design wind loads. direction only. Installed only on exterior walls over solid Must be installed as per the manufacturers installation sheathing capable of withstanding the design wind loads. instructions. Must be installed as per the manufacturers installation 12192.2 Center Vented 12"/Solid 12" Triple 4 inch Partially Perforated Soffit Limits of Use Installation Instructions Approved for use in HVHZ: No FL12192 R6 II Kavcan Installation.odf Approved for use outside HVHZ: Yes Verified By: ICC Evaluation Service, LLC Impact Resistant: N/A Created by Independent Third Party: Design Pressure: +0/-70 Evaluation Reports Other: Design Pressure Rating applicable to negative F112192 R.6 AE ESR-1495.odf direction only. Installed only on exterior walls over solid Evaluation Reports sheathing capable of withstanding the design wind loads. Other: Design Pressure Rating applicable to negative Must be installed as per the manufacturers installation instructions. 12192.5 12192.3 D 4 Avanti Limits of Use Double 4" Horizontal Dutch Lap Limits of Use Installation Instructions Approved for use in HVHZ: No Approved for use in HVHZ: No FL12192 R6 II Kavcan Installation.pdf Verified By: ICC Evaluation Service, LLC Approved for use outside HVHZ: Yes Verified By: ICC Evaluation Service, LLC Design Pressure: +0/-70 Impact Resistant: N/A Created by Independent Third Party: Fl -12192 R6 AE ESR-1495.odf Design Pressure: +0/-70 Evaluation Reports sheathing capable of withstanding the design wind loads. Other: Design Pressure Rating applicable to negative FL12192 R6 AE ESR-1495:Ddf direction only. Installed only on exterior walls over solid sheathing capable of withstanding the design wind loads. Must be installed as per the manufacturers installation instructions. 12192.4 D-4 Marquis Double 4" Horizontal Limits of Use Installation Instructions Approved for use in HVHZ: No FL12192 R6 II Kavcan Installation. odf Approved for use outside HVHZ: Yes Verified By: ICC Evaluation Service, LLC Impact Resistant: N/A Created by Independent Third Party: Design Pressure: +0/-70 Evaluation Reports Other: Design Pressure Rating applicable to negative FL12192 R6 AE ESR-1495.odf direction only. Installed only on exterior walls over solid sheathing capable of withstanding the design wind loads. Must be installed as per the manufacturers installation instructions. 12192.5 D-5 Contessa Double 5" Horizontal Limits of Use Installation Instructions Approved for use in HVHZ: No FL12192 R6 II Kaycan Installation.odf Approved for use outside HVHZ: Yes Verified By: ICC Evaluation Service, LLC Impact Resistant: N/A Created by Independent Third Party: Design Pressure: +0/-70 Evaluation Reports Other: Design Pressure Rating applicable to negative Fl -12192 R6 AE ESR-1495.odf direction only. Installed only on exterior walls over solid sheathing capable of withstanding the design wind loads. Must be installed as per the manufacturers installation instructions. 12192.6 ( D-5 Elegance Limits of Use Approved for use in HVHZ: No Approved for use outside HVHZ: Yes Impact Resistant: N/A Design Pressure: +0/-70 Double 5" Horizontal Dutch Lap Installation Instructions FL12192 R6 II Kavcan Installation.Ddf Verified By: ICC Evaluation Service, LLC Created by Independent Third Party: https://www.floridabuilding.org/pr/pr_app_dtl. aspx?param=wGEVXQwtDquk24AUC%2f... 4/21/2020 s Fastener choices Use aluminum, galvanized steel, or other corrosion -resistant nails, staples, or screws when installing vinyl siding. Aluminum trim pieces require aluminum or stainless steel fasteners. All fasteners must be able to penetrate not less than 3/4" into framing or furring. Review your local building codes for variations that may apply to specific geographic areas Nails Nail heads should be 5/16" minimum in diameter. Shank should be 1/8" in diameter. 11f8' min -� 5116" min, T Screw fasteners Screw fasteners can be used if the screws do not restrict the normal expansion and contraction movement of the vinyl siding panel on the wall. Screws must be centered in the slot with a minimum 1/32" space between the screw head and the vinyl. Screws must be able to penetrate not less than 34' into framing or furring and should be: • Size #8, truss head or pan head. • Corrosion -resistant, self -tapping sheet metal type. Fastener Vinyl siding Sheating New construction Residing Fastener Vinyl sidino Wood lap sidina Fanfold under laymen: Original sheating Staples If staples are being used instead of nails or screws, they must: • Not be less than 16 -gauge semi -flattened to an elliptical cross-section. • Penetrate not less than 3/4" into framing or furring. • Be wide enough in the crown to allow free movement of the siding (1/32" away from the nailing hem). `E 13T 1 Use of staples when installing siding KAYCAJV - 3/4"-- E-- - Fastener Vinyl siding - Concrete , or blocks Furring strip 04' mini Over concrete or blocs 7 Starter trim 10' Window/door drip cap 10' Undersill trim 12' 6" Dual Undersill trim 12' 6" F -channel 12' 6" J -channel 12'6" Outside corner post 10' Inside corner post 10' Vertical base flashing 10' Vinyl fascia 12'6" H -channel 12'6" 3-1/2" Window Surround 12' 5" Window Surround 12' Starter Strip 12' 6" Fluted corner 10' 6" Traditional corner 10' How to determine the number of pieces required: Measure structure perimeter. Convert to decimal, divide by 10 and round up. # of pieces needed: _ Measure tops of all window and door cap openings. Convert to decimal, divide by 10 and round up. # of pieces needed: _ Measure bottom of all areas where siding must be cut horizontally (at the top of wall and under all door and window openings). Convert to decimal, divide by 12.5 and round up. # of pieces needed: _ Measure bottom of all areas where siding must be cut horizontally (at the top of wall and under all door and window openings). Convert to decimal, divide by 12.5 and round up. # of pieces needed: _ Measure span where all soffits return to wall. Convert to decimal, divide by 12.5, and round up. # of pieces needed: For open eaves, multiply the pieces calculated above by 2: Measure around all openings (doors, windows and gable ends). Convert to decimal, divide by 12.5 and round up. # of pieces needed: Measure length on all outside corners. Convert to decimal, divide by 10 and round up. # of pieces needed: Measure length of all inside corners. Convert to decimal, divide by 10 and round up. # of pieces needed: _ Measure bottom of sidewall where vertical siding is being installed. Convert to decimal, divide total by 10 and round up. # of pieces needed: _ Measure span of all roof lines to determine total footage of fascia required. Convert to decimal, divide by 12.5 and round up. # of pieces needed: _ Measure span from inside wall to end of roof line (typically 45°). Convert to decimal, divide by 12.5 and round up. # of pieces needed: _ Measure around all openings (doors, windows and comers) where the lineal is to be installed. Convert to decimal, divide by 12 and round up # of pieces needed: _ Measure around all openings (doors, windows and comers) where the lineal is to be installed. Convert to decimal, divide by 12 and round up. # of pieces needed: Equal quantity of Lineal starter is required for the amount of lineal ordered. # of pieces needed: _ Measure all corners where the piece is to be installed. Convert to decimal, divide by 10 and round up . # of pieces needed: Measure all corners where the piece is to be installed. Convert to decimal, divide by 10 and round up. # of pieces needed: 8 KAYLAN'" • M O Important installation tips Before getting started, it is important to review several rules of thumb for vinyl siding application. The following rules, which come up throughout this guide, are critical for proper vinyl siding installation: The following are absolute "must -do's" for every siding installation: 1. Installed panels must move freely from side to side. Don't nail too tightly. Always allow a minimum of 1/32" space between the back of the head and the nailing hem. Space fasteners 12" -16" apart on center. 2. When installing a siding panel, push up from the bottom until the lock is fully engaged with the piece below it. Without stretching the panel, reach up and fasten it into place. 3. When finishing the top of the wall perforate the cut edge using snap -lock punch approximately every 8", ensuring the "tabs' face outward. 4. Leave 1/4" clearance at all openings and accessory channel stops. This allows for normal expansion and contraction. When installing in temperatures below 40' F, leave 318". allowing. for expansion nal driven too tightly ' ` do not face nail ' ;'; / �. Nailing guidelines 5. DO NOT CAULK the space between the panels and the J -channel, outside and inside corners and any other trims. Do not caulk overlapping joints between siding panels. 6. NEVER NAIL THROUGH THE FACE OF THE SIDING! Face nailing is driving a fastener through the panel outside of the center of a nail slot. 7. Center fasteners in nail slots. Fastening at the end of the slot will cause permanent damage to the siding panel. If you need to lengthen the nail slot, you can do so with a nail -slot punch. 8. Drive fasteners in straight. Nailing at an angle will distort siding panels and cause buckling. 9. Be careful not to stretch panels. Apply slight upward pressure until the lock is fully engaged, then secure allowing panels to move freely without strain. 10. Overlap horizontal siding panels 1". Excessive overlap can restrict free movement and cause product failure. 11. Use fasteners long enough to penetrate a minimum of 3/4" into the nailable base. 12. In residing, furring or removal of uneven original siding may be necessary. 13. In new construction, avoid the use of green lumber as the underlayment. Keep in mind that siding can only be as straight and stable as what lies under it, centw Dila I am t1€rtg Position of fasteners drive nail straight , and level / �. Materials Fasteners detail Sheathing/Backerboard Vinyl siding should be applied over a sheathing that provides a smooth, flat surface. Consult local building codes for sheathing requirements. Vinyl siding should never be applied directly to open studs without sheathing. As an alternative, installation of specific types of contoured foam underlayment for various styles of vinyl siding are available. Weather Resistant Barrier Vinyl siding should be installed over a continuous weather resistant barrier to stop the intrusion of incidental water. Consult your local building code for requirements in your area. Flashing Code -compliant flashing should be integrated with the weather resistant barrier and applied around windows, doors, and other openings. Flashing should also be applied to inside and outside corners, and the intersection of walls and roofing to prevent water infiltration. r:�'�I�' Preparing your house Proper surface preparation is one of the most important parts of your siding installation job. All exterior wall surfaces must be even, so that your new vinyl siding will be straight, and look sharp. 1. Remove all shutters, downspouts and fixtures. On older homes, replace any rotten wood and securely nail all loose boards, siding and wood trim. Tie back all shrubbery and trees when plantings are close to the house. Remove any old caulking around windows and doors. 2. Flashing: Use aluminum trim coil or other material which will not absorb water. Apply flashing below, on the sides of, and above (in that order) any openings where water might penetrate. This will help in directing water away from the opening. 3. Installing Furring: Furring or strapping must be applied to create an even base for siding. Apply 1" x 3" (minimum size) wood furring, not more than 16" on centers. Shim low spots to create an even surface. For horizontal vinyl siding, install furring vertically. For vertical siding, install furring horizontally. Place furring along all sides of door and window frames, corners, and top and bottom of areas to be sided. As an alternative, solid sheathing can be applied directly over the old surface to create a smooth base, or over furring to provide even support for the vinyl siding. 4. Housewrap: If required by building codes, apply a weather -resistant barrier over the sheathing. We recommend an approved breather -type code housewrap. 5. Insulation: The ideal time to increase the insulation value of the sidewall is before installing siding. Simply install insulating sheathing over existing siding, over or between the furring strips. 6. Laying the groundwork: Determine a starting point for your siding — it should be the lowest point. Measure at corners, and pull a chalk line across the wall to ensure a level starting position. Plumb corners, and shim if necessary, to ensure they are vertical. Faring for horizontal siding Preparing the Walls Important notes: Weather Resistant Barrier Vinyl siding has always been designed as an exterior cladding, not a weather resistant barrier. Vinyl siding is designed to allowthe material underneath it to breathe; therefore, it is not a watertight covering. Because of its design and application, it provides a supplemental rain screen that enhances the weather resistant barrier system by reducing the amount of water that reaches the underlying weather resistant barrier. Preparing the Walls A flat, level wall surface is necessary for proper installation of vinyl siding. Install flashing before starting to apply the siding. Unless already installed, a weather resistant barrier should be applied to the house prior to installing vinyl siding. Always consult local building code for requirements in your area. New Construction • Tip: To reduce the possibility of the floor -plate compression, drywall, roofing, or other heavy building materials should be installed or stored throughout the house prior to the installation of vinyl siding. Floor -plate compression can result in buckled siding at the intersection of the floor and the wall. Residing • Nail down loose boards of existing siding, and replace any rotten ones. Do not install vinyl siding over rotting wood. • Scrape off loose caulk and re -caulk around windows, doors, and other areas to protect from moisture penetration. • Remove all protrusions such as gutters, downspouts, and light fixtures. • Check all walls for evenness and install furring strips where necessary. When installing furring strips, please take appropriate measures to establish a smooth and continuous surface. Note: In cases where the lower portion of a horizontal siding panel must be trimmed so that it may be installed over steps, porches, etc., the panel should be built out ("furred") for proper angle and rigidity. Undersill trim can be used to seal the out edge of the panel and then secured to the wall. 12 KA V'CA Y - Before the siding itself can be hung, a number of accessories must be installed first, including starter strips, corner posts, window flashing, trim, and J -channels over the roof lines. Starter trim • In order for the siding to be installed properly in a level fashion, the starter strip at the bottom of the wall must be level. • Determine the lowest point of the wall that will be sided; from that point, measure up 114" less than the width of the starter trim and partially drive a nail at one corner. • Attach a chalkline; go to the next corner and pull the line taut. • Make sure the line is level by using a line level or a 4' level. • Snap the chalkline and repeat the procedure around the entire house. • Optional method to determining the position of the starter trim in new construction and some residing applications: Measure down from the soffit at one corner of the house to the top of the foundation and subtract 114" less than the width of the starter strip. Make a mark on the wall and record the measurement. Transfer the measurement to the other corner of the wall. Snap a chalk line in between the corners at the marks. Repeat the procedure around the entire house. • Using the chalkline as a guide, install the top edge of the starter strip along the bottom of the chalkline, nailing at 10" intervals. Allow space for the corner posts, J -channels, etc. • Keep the ends of starter trims at least 1/4" apart to allow for expansion • Nail in the center of the starter strip nailing slots. Notes: When using insulation/backerboard, fur the starter trim, if necessary, to accommodate thickness. For a vertical siding starter strip, see vertical siding section. In certain situations, it may be necessary to use J -channel as a starter strip; remember to drill minimum 118" diameter weep holes no more than 24" apart. Outside and inside corner pasts • A water resistant material should be used to flash the inside and outside corners a minimum of 10" on each side before installation of the corner. • Place the corner post in position, allowing a 1/4" gap between the top of the post and the eave or soffit. • Position a nail at the top of the upper slot on both sides of the corner post, leaving a 1/32" gap between the nail heads and the corner posts. The corner post hangs from these nails. • The balance of the nailing should be in the center of the slot, 8" to 12" apart, again leaving 1/32" between the nail head and the corner post. This allows for the expansion and contraction to occur at the bottom. • The corner post should extend 3/4" below the starter strip. Make sure the posts are plumb (i.e., vertically straight). • If more than one length of corner post is required, overlap the upper piece over , the lower piece by cutting away 1" of the nailing flange on the top piece. Overlap 3/4",� allowing 1/4" for expansion. This method will µ produce a visible joint between the two posts, but will allow water to flow over the joint, reducing the chance of water infiltration. outside corner splicing detail Starter trim installation Starter trim at corners Starter trim and outside corner post Inside corner splicing detail Starter trim and inside corner post KAYCAAf " 13 sidingHorizontal Installing panels • The first course (row of panels) should be placed in the starter trim and securely locked along the entire length of the siding panel. Make sure the panel is securely locked before fastening. • Fasten the panels in the center of the nailing slots. Allowance should be made for expansion and contraction by leaving a 1/4" gap between the siding and all corner posts and channels (increase to 318" when installing in temperatures below 40° F. If the panels are 20 feet or longer, increase the gap to 318". • Do not drive the head of the fastener tightly against the nail slot. Leave 1132" between the fastener head and the vinyl (about the thickness of a dime). • Do not force the panels up or down when fastening. Panel locks should be fully engaged; however, the panels should not be under vertical tension or compression when they are fastened. • Since vinyl siding moves as the temperature changes, make certain that the vinyl panels can move freely in a side-to-side direction once fastened. .,J racafvm poet Installing the first panel • Check every fifth or sixth course for horizontal alignment. Also check siding alignment with adjoining walls. • When panels overlap, make sure they overlap by one half the length of the notch at the end of the panel, or approximately V. • Stagger the siding end laps so that no two courses (rows of panels) are aligned vertically, unless separated by at least three courses (rows of panels). • Always overlap joints away from entrances and away from the point of greatest traffic. This will improve the overall appearance of the installation. Fitting siding around fixtures Use a commercially available trim ring to fit siding to a penetration such as a faucet or railing attachment, following the manufacturer's installation instructions. If a commercial trim ring is not available for the application, refer to the figure below, which illustrates how to fit the siding to the penetration. In addition, the following tips are suggested: • If hand -fitting to the fixture, always begin a new course of siding at the fixture to avoid excess lap joints. • Cut an opening 1/4" bigger than the fixture or the trim ring. • When cutting, match the shape and contour of the obstruction. J -channel detail Siding panel overlap 16 KAYCANT" Horizontal siding installation Fitting Lander windows To mark the section to be cut, perform the following: • Hold the panel under the window and mark the width of the window opening on the panel. Add approximately 114" to both sides to allow for expansion and contraction of the siding. These marks represent the vertical cuts. • Lock a small piece of scrap siding into the lower panel next to the window. This will be used as a template for the horizontal cuts. Mark it 114" below the sill height. • Transfer the horizontal measurement to the panel, which will be installed under the window. Measurement may not be the same on both sides of the window. • Cut the panel with tin snips and a utility knife. The cut panel is now ready for installation under the window. Perform the following: • Using a snap look punch, punch the vinyl siding along the cut edge every 6" so the raised tab is on the outside face. • Install undersill trim under the window, as a receiver for the cut siding. Undersill trim is used any time the top lock has been removed from the siding. Furring may be needed to maintain the face of the panel at the desired angle. • Install the siding panel, making sure the tabs (from the snap lock punch) lock into the undersill trim. Measuring the width of the section to cut Measuring the height of the section to cut Installing the top panel Sid wall flashing at roof lines • Install the siding panel, making sure the tabs (from the snap lock punch) lock into the undersill trim. • Run the siding until the last full course under the roof area. • Cut a diverter from aluminum trim sheet, making sure it sits on the nail hem of the last full course. • Also make sure to slip it behind all J -channels and roof flashing (similar to flashing the bottom of window detail). • As an alternative to the diverter, create a "kickout" from metal flashing. • Cut the next piece of siding, making sure the vertical lap falls behind the roof flashing and roof J -channel. • Cut a small piece of siding that will be placed on top of the previous piece of siding and sits in the roof J -channel. • Install the remaining course of siding. Water running behind the panel will be directed by the diverter into the butt of the panel, draining out in the weep holes. Note: "Kick -out flashing" is an additional flashing strip that extends beyond the edge of the fascia that is required in some cold -climate localities. t Side wall flashing Kickout flashing 2 KAYLA - 17 Horizontal siding installation Under eave installation • Nail undersill trim along the top of the wall, flush with the eave of the house. Furring may be necessary to maintain the proper pitch of the topmost siding panel. Should more than one length of undersill trim be required, make a splice as shown by cutting away 1" from the back of the undersill trim and lapping the sections, leaving a 114" space between nailing strip sections. • If topmost siding panel is trimmed near the butt leg, an undersill trim alone may not be sufficient. • Either combine an undersill trim inside a J -channel, or use an undersill trim molding to hold the siding panel firmly. • A dual undersill trim molding replaces the need for both a J -channel and undersill molding. Simply place the snap -lock punched top panel in the appropriate receiving pocket to keep the proper siding angle. • Another alternative to finishing the top panel of a wall is to use a frieze plate and crown molding. Secure frieze plate (either with or without a soffit receiver), no more than 16" on center. Allow 1(4" between adjoining frieze plates. • Using a nail slot punch, create nail slots every 12" -16" in the top panel of siding and secure normally. Finish the application by cutting crown moldings to length as needed, and snapping them into the frieze plate receivers. Fitting and installing tap siding panel • Measure and cut siding panel to the desired length. • Determine how much of the top panel must be removed by measuring the distance between the top of the undersill trim and the lock of the panel below, and subtracting 1/4". Be sure to measure several times across the wall as the dimension could change slightly. • Cut the top siding panel to proper height, removing the nailing strip. • Using a nail slot punch, create nail slots every 12" -16" in the top panel of siding and secure normally. • Finish the application by cutting crown moldings to length as needed, and snapping them into the frieze plate receivers. Fr4a 'Z"-ire Zd Last full siding panel on the top of the wall '11' Splicing of the undersill trim Measuring the height to cover F cNcu a iy a is LUP Nauci Installing the top panel 18 KAYCAN- nail $tat r t� sz-cute wqh s p&iel cWt here, ins f PaRN_. Top panel installation Top panel installation using using dual undersill trim frieze plate and crown mold Last full siding panel on the top of the wall '11' Splicing of the undersill trim Measuring the height to cover F cNcu a iy a is LUP Nauci Installing the top panel 18 KAYCAN- Horizontal siding installation Finishing a gable end To install around gable ends, make a pattern that duplicates the slope of the gable: • Look a short piece of siding into the gable starter course (i.e., the last course before the gable starts). • Hold a second piece of siding against the J -channel at the slope of the gable. Mark the slope with a pencil on the short piece of siding. Check the angle template every few courses. • Remove the short piece and cut along the pencil line as a pattern for the gable angle cuts. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the gable. • It may be necessary to fasten the last panel at the gable peak with a trim nail. Use a 1 1/4" to 11/2" nail. This is the only time a nail should be placed in the face of the vinyl siding. Eaves treatment The last course of siding may be cut to fit the eaves opening. • Measure from the soffit to the base of the upper lock on the previous course of panels. Subtract 1/4". Mark this dimension on the panel to be cut, measuring from the bottom edge of the panel. It is a good idea to check the dimension in several locations along the length of the wall. • Using a snap lock punch, punch the vinyl siding along the cut edge every 6", so the raised tab is on the outside face. Measuring the cutting angle • Push the siding into the undersill trim that has been nailed in place along the top of the wall. Furring may be needed to maintain the face of the panel at the desired angle. The raised tabs will catch and hold the siding firmly in place.ii Transition fr®m horizontal to vertical • Finish the last course of horizontal siding with the J -channel and/or finish trim. Install a drip cap and a J -channel. The top piece of J -channel must have minimum 1/8" diameter weep holes drilled no more than 24" apart to allow for water runoff. Transition transition from brick to vinyl siding • Caulk where the sheathing meets the brick or stone exterior. Flashing should be caulked where it meets the brick or stone and a drip cap should be in place. • If horizontal siding is used, a J -channel or starter strip may be used. If a starter strip is used, it is necessary to provide at least 3/8" clearance for proper engagement of the siding. • Use a J -channel to receive vertical siding; remember to drill minimum 1/8" diameter weep holes no more than 24" apart. Installing the cut panel Position of top nail K'AYCAN- 19