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HomeMy WebLinkAboutPalm Harbor Manual 1nrrgw"'U .NMI iy r`-'` v11rj�nnrr nnnrtlal - Palm Harbor �Homes Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. September 22, 2008 Manufactured Home Installation Manual A copy of this manual must rem. with the home for future referent by the occupant. , I Effective Date: October 20,29�0�'; PFS certifies this document is current as of 06/19/14. -44 • -44 Using the Manual HUD NHCSS 10/20/08 This manual is organized into a series of steps that will take you through the entire installation process using only those pages required for the specific home being installed. First, review the entire manual, including the Introduction chapter. As you read it, identify sections of the manual that you will need; identify other documents or information you will need; construct lists of tools and materials required for your particular installation; and make sure you have everything you need before starting work. After reviewing the entire manual, refer to the sequence of installation steps in the table below. Identify the pathway for your installation and follow the arrows downward. Select either Single Section Home or a Multi -Section Home and choose the col- umn corresponding to the home's foundation type, either Pier and Ground Anchor or Load -Bearing Perimeter Wall (see Definitions, p. 3). Then complete the work in each of the sections starting with Getting Started. I If using an alternative (proprietary) foundation system, the installation process will change from that described in this manual. Consult the system manufacturer directions for instructions. See page 5 for alternative foundation system criteria. SECTIONSINGLE •ME Pier and Ground Anchor f Load -Bearing Perimeter I L�J Wall I MULTI -SECTION HOME Pier and Ground An. or Load-Bearin Perimeter f., Wall Getting Started (p. 7) Getting Started (p. 7) Getting Started (p 7) ? 5 G.Aetting Started (p. 7) ♦ ♦ ♦ I rYS Prepare the Site (p. 12) Prepare the Site (p. 12) Prepare the Site (p. 12) ,; P.,repare the Site (p. 12) Install Footings (p. 17) Construct Foundation Install Footings (p. 17) 'r r% Construct Foundation ♦ (p.27) ♦ +v (p.27) Set the Home (p. 29) ♦ Set the Home (p 29) ;'4fa v ♦ Connect Utilities (p. 75) ♦ i , Complete Roof and Exte- Install Stabilizing System ♦ Complete Multi-Sectlon y rior Walls (p. 43) (p. 60) Prepare Appliances and Set (p. 35) ♦ Equipment (p. 84) ♦ , Connect Crossovers Connect Utilities (p. 75) ♦ Complete Roof and IExte ,(p. 48) ♦ Complete Under the nor Walls (p. 43) ig Prepare Appliances and Home and Site Built ♦ Complete Interior (p. 58) Equipment (p. 84) Structures (p. 94) - Connect Crossovers ♦ ♦ (p. 48) "Connect Utilities (p. 75) Complete Under the Prepare Home for Occu- ♦ "rf� Home and Site Built pancy (p. 97) Complete Interior (p 56)'i Prepare Appliances and Structures (p. 94) ♦ ♦ 4; Equipment (p. 84) ♦ Complete Installation Install Stabilizing System Prepare Home for Occu- 97) Checklist (p. 98) (p. 60) +p ♦ Complete Under the Home and Site Built pancy,(p. ♦ Connect Utilities (p.�75) Structures (p. 94) Complete Installation ♦ s Checklist (p. 98) Prepare Appliances and Prepare Home for Occu- Equipment (p. 84) �t_a +pancy (p. 97) ♦f Complete Under the Complete Installation Home and Site Built' - �• --Ctlecklist (p. 98) y Structures (p. 94) � Prepare Home for Occu- " Complete Installation Checklist (p. 98) Disclaimer The Manufactured Housing Research Alliance, its members, consultants, contractors and representatives make no representations, warranty or guarantee, express or implied, as to the accuracy or appropriateness of any materials or information in this manual for use in a specific home, nor assume any liability for the use of the information, methods, or materials contained herein, or for damages arising from any such use. Copyright © 2008 Manufactured Housing Research Alliance ISSN 1529-3424 Introduction xun ntucss 10/28/88 This installation manual contains instructions that must be followed for the proper installation of the home. It complies with the HUD Model Manufactured Home Installation Standards. Please read all instructions and any other documents (includ- ing addendum pages and supplements) that may apply to the specific home prior to commencing site work or installation. This installation manual covers permits and site work through final inspection of the installation. It covers both single and multi -section homes installed over pier and anchor, load bearing crawl space walls and basement foundations. It contains instructions, including specifications and procedures, for the set and hookup of manufactured homes to be used as single- family dwellings. The importance of correct installation cannot be over -emphasized. Correct installation is absolutely essential to home- owner satisfaction and the structural integrity of the home. All instructions must be followed to provide the customer with a safe, quality home. No manual can cover all circumstances that may exist for certain home designs or building sites. For questions, further clarification, or if you encounter conditions at the site or in the design of the home or its foundation not covered by this manual, please contact the manufacturer (see Resources, p. 2), a registered engineer, or registered architect. Supplemental addendum pages may be included with this manual. Supplements include requirements not covered in this manual or that supercede the manual instructions. Once the home installation is complete, leave this manual with the home. IMPORTANT NOTICES • The home manufacturer is not responsible for installation or for the materials supplied by the set-up crew at the time of installation. The installer may be responsible for any deviations from the installation instructions of this manual. • To keep the home in compliance with its warranty, the home installation must follow the procedures described in this manual or other procedures approved by the manufacturer. Deviation from the instructions in this manual may void the home's warranty. Any alterations or changes to the home shall be approved by a registered engi- neer or registered architect and may still be subject to warranty violations. s • When an installer does not provide support and anchorage in accordance with the approved manufacturer's in- stallation instructions, or encounters site conditions (such as areas that are subject to flood damage or high seismic risk) or other conditions that prevent the use of the instructions provided in this manual, the installer must obtain special site -specific instructions from the manufacturer or use a design approved by a registered engineer or registered architect. • The installer must possess a valid installation license as a manufactured home installer. • If the installer identifies failures of the home to comply with the Federal Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards (the HUD Code), the installer must notify the manufacturer and retailer. SAFETY There are potential hazards associated with the installation of a manufactured home. Home installers are licensed, and as experienced professionals, should recognize -these hazards, be qualified to work with them, and be capable of providing safe work practices and equipment that minimize the risks of injury. Only qualified persons should install a manufactured home. As qualified professionals in the field of manufactured home installation, installers are the experts and must be aware of the hazards and conditions faced. Warnings are published throughout this manual as reminders. These reminders may not cover all hazards, all potential hazards, or all possible consequences of improper or unsafe installation practices. Construction crews should be trained in the skills required and be supervised by experienced personnel. Installers should regularly inspect work performed by crews and subcontractors. Obey OSHA regulations, particularly those related to home construction, such as Title 29 Code of Regulations Part 1926. For copies of OSHA regulations, call (202) 512-1800 or visit www.osha.gov on the web. RESOURCES Manufacturer contact information: See Back Cover for Building Center information Name Address Telephone Fax r7. 1 Homes, Inc. Website VPO-HUD mucss i ronmoa Office of Regulatory Affairs and Manufactured Housing US Department of Housing and Urban Development 451 Seventh Street, SW, Room 9164 Washington, DC 20410-8000 Telephone: (202) 708-6423 or (800) 927-2891 FAX: (202) 708-4213 State Administrative Agencies A list of SAAs may be found on the web at www.hud.gov or by contacting the Office of Regulatory Affairs and Manu- factured Housing. I I FEDERAL PREEMPTION This home was engineered, constructed, and inspected in conformance with the Federal Manufactured Home Construc- tion and Safety Standards of the US Department of Housing and Urban Development (24 CFR Part 3280, commonly re- ferred to as the "HUD Code") in effect on the date of manufacture. These Standards set forth minimum requirements for the design and construction of manufactured homes designed to be used as dwellings. Individual states, counties and cities shall have no authority to establish standards !regarding the construction or safety of a manufactured home. A metal certification label is affixed to each section of the home to certify that it has been con- structed and inspected to comply with these Standards. The design plans and in -plant construction of all homes are in- spected by independent third party agencies to assure compliance with the Standards. !I The installation of the home and any alterations made to the home shall conform to the requirements of the Federal Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards and the HUD Model Manufactured Home Installation Standards. These installation instructions are minimum requirements. Applicable local or state laws may have more stringent installa- tion requirements than outlined in this manual and must be followed. Consult with the local authority having jurisdiction (LAHJ) for regulations that may require licenses and/or permits or which may affect procedures described in this manual. DEFINITIONS ANCHOR ASSEMBLY. Any device or other means designed to transfer loads to ANCHORING EQUIPMENT. Ties, straps, cables, turnbuckles, chains, and other ing devices that are used to secure a manufactured home to anchor assemb ANCHORING SYSTEM. A combination of anchoring equipment and anchor asse and installed, resist the uplift, overturning, and lateral forces on the manufac BASEMENT. A load -bearing perimeter wall foundation that includes habitable sp unheated) partly or completely below grade. CRAWLSPACE. The space underneath the home's floor system, enclosed with i walls. The ground may be covered with a concrete slab or by a plastic groun vented. CROSSOVERS. Utility interconnections between sections of multi -section hom electrical circuits, and water pipes, drain plumbing, and gas lines. ground. including tension- s that wily when properly designed home. I ;e (finished oi� unfinished, heated or her load- or non -load bearing perimeter cover. Crawl'space walls must be and cooling ducts, DATA PLATE. An information sheet located at the main electrical panel, in the utility room, in a bedroom closet, or in a cabinet in the kitchen. It contains a unique identification number and identifies the wind zone, roof load zone, and cli- matic zone for which the home was constructed. I I DIAGONAL TIE. A tie intended to resist horizontal or shear forces, but which may/ resist verti forces. FOOTING. That portion of the support system that transmits loads directly to the foil. GROUND ANCHOR. A specific anchoring assembly device designed to transfer dome loads H-BEAM. Steel H-beams are often used to support a home over a basement or aawlspace. dation from sidewall to sidewall, typically with an intermediate support pier and footing (t suiting in a line of piers under the centerline of a double section home). INFORMATION PACKET. A set of important documents provided with the homencluding w wind coverage, and other features of the specific home. i INSTALLATION LICENSE. The proof that an installer meets the requirements for installing r the HUD -administered installation program. I uplift, and overturning !ground. span across the foun- ly in the center point re - information on high homes under R LABELED. Equipment or materials to which has been attached a label, symbol, or other identifying mark of a certified testing laboratory, inspection agency, or other an organization concerned with product evaluation. The label indicates compliance with nationally recognized standards or tests to determine suitable usage in a specified manner. LISTED OR CERTIFIED. Included in a list published by a nationally recognized testing laboratory, inspection agency, or other organization concerned with product evaluation that maintains periodic inspection of production of listed equip- ment or materials, and whose listing states either that the equipment or material meets nationally recognized stan- dards or has been tested and found suitable for use in a specified manner. LOAD -BEARING PERIMETER WALL FOUNDATION. A support system for the home whereby the home is mechanically fastened to a structural wall(s) that transfers gravity, lateral, and uplift loads to the ground. LOCAL AUTHORITY HAVING JURISDICTION (LAHJ). The state, city, county, municipality, utility, or organization that has local responsibilities that must be complied with during the installation of a manufactured home. MUST. Indicates a mandatory requirement. N/A. Indicates not applicable. PIER. That portion of the support system between the footing and the manufactured home, exclusive of shims. Types of piers include, but are not limited to: (1) manufactured steel stands; (2) pressure -treated wood; (3) manufactured con- crete stands; (4) concrete blocks; and (5) portions of foundation walls. PIER AND GROUND ANCHOR FOUNDATION. A support system for the home that employs piers under the chassis and other locations to support gravity loads and employs ground anchors and tie downs (the stabilizing system) to resist lateral and uplift loads. PERIMETER BLOCKING. Regularly spaced piers supporting the sidewalls and marriage line of the home. Some homes require perimeter blocking in addition to supports under the home's frame. QUALIFIED. Has the necessary knowledge and skills gained from experience and training that will allow performance of the job safely, competently, and in accordance with all applicable codes, standards, rules, and regulations. Meets all necessary qualification tests including any license and certification requirements that may be in effect in the area where the home will be installed. RAMADA. Any freestanding roof or shade structure, installed or erected over a manufactured home or any portion thereof. SHOULD. Indicates a recommendation that is strongly advised but not mandatory. SHALL. Indicates a mandatory requirement. SITE FOR A MANUFACTURED HOME. A designated parcel of land designed for the accommodation of one manufac- tured home, its accessory buildings or structures, and accessory equipment, for the exclusive use of the occupants of the home. SKIRTING. A weather -resistant material used to enclose the perimeter, under the living area of the home, from the bottom of the manufactured home to grade. STABILIZING SYSTEM. All components of the anchoring and support systems, such as piers, footings, ties, anchoring equipment, anchoring assemblies, or any other equipment, materials and methods of construction, that support and secure the manufactured home to the ground. SUPPORT SYSTEM. Pilings, columns, a combination of footings, piers, foundation walls, caps, and shims and any com- bination thereof that will, when properly installed, support and secure the manufactured home to the ground. TIE. Straps, cable, or securing devices used to connect the manufactured home to anchoring assemblies. UTILITY CONNECTION. The connection of the manufactured home to utilities that include, but are not limited to, electric- ity, water, sewer, gas, or fuel oil. VERTICAL TIE. A tie intended to resist uplifting and overturning forces. WIND ZONE. The areas designated on the Basic Wind Zone Map, as further defined by the Manufactured Home Con- struction and Safety Standards. ENGINEER'S STAMP Certain pages of this manual display the seal of a registered engineer. Federal guidelines only require the seal from one state to be displayed, but the details herein apply to all states. Conforms ro SYMBOLS USED IN THE MANUAL VWOP NOD MncSs 10120108 iThis icon indicates an important warning. It is critical to heed these warnings. This icon indicates a recommended best practice. While not reYquired, following these practices will result in a superior installation, reducing the chance that cosmetic or dura- bility related complaints might arise. ABS Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene max. Maximum I American National Standards Insli- Manufactured Home ANSI MHCSS Construction and tuta Safety Standards APA American Plywood Association min. Minimum American Society for Testing and Me- ASTM mph Mile(s) per hour terials American Wood Preservers Associa- AWPA NEC National Electric Code tion CFM Cubic feet per minute NFIP National Flood to surance Program CFR Code of Federal Regulations NFPA National Fire Protection Association DWV Drain, Waste, Vent O.C. On center I EMT Electrical metallic tubing OSHA Occupational Safety and Health Admini- stration FEMA Federal Emergency Management oz Ounce(s) Agency ft Foottfeet P. Page ga Gauge psf Pounds per square foot HUD US Department of Housing and Ur- Y ban Development Psi Piunds per square inch in Inch(es) SAA St ate Administritive Agency LAHJ Local Authority Having Jurisdiction sq ft Square foot/feet lb(s) Pound(s) ALTERNATIVE FOUNDATION SYSTEMS Alternative foundation systems or designs are permitted if they are approved by the home manufacturer and the manufac- turer's DAPIA, and are in accordance with either of the following: • Systems or designs are manufactured and installed in accordance with their listings by a nationally recognized testing agency based on a nationally recognized testing protocol; or • System designs are prepared by a registered engineer or a registered architect or tested and certified by a regis- tered engineer or registered architect in accordance with acceptable engineering practice and are manufactured and installed so as not to take the home out of compliance with the Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards. i DISPLAY AND STORAGE OF THE HOME WEATHER PROTECTION If the installation is not started immediately upon delivery of the home, the retailer;land/or installer has the responsibility to ensure the exterior weather protection covering of marriage walls and the roof of homes with hinged roofs has not been damaged during shipment. Inspect the home immediately upon the delivery and frequently during storage. Promptly repair tears in the home closure materials to prevent damage from the elements. Inspect and repair ro 4 cf shingles and siding as needed. HUD SUPPORTING A HOME FOR DISPLAY 10/20/08 When a new or used manufactured home is to be displayed at a retail location, temporarily block and support the home. Set up single -section homes with single block piers spaced no further apart than 12 feet c.c. beneath each I-beam. The tire and axle system may be used as one of these required supports, and the hitch jack may be used as another. Locate the first pier no further than two feet from the rear end of the home (Figure 1). Place additional piers along the perimeter on either side of openings greater than four feet (i.e. sliding glass doors, bay windows, etc.). For multi -section homes, locate additional piers along the marriage line under support columns. These locations will be marked by the manufacturer. Figure 1. Supporting a home for display For all homes, place footings below each pier. Footings may be placed directly on the surface grade without excavation and may be ABS pads, 2 x 10 by 16 inch long pressure treated lumber or 16" x 16" by 4 inch thick concrete pads. SUPPORTING A HOME FOR STORAGE To prevent damage to homes being stored but not on display (i.e. people shall not be permitted inside the home) for a pe- riod exceeding 30 days, locate piers below each I-beam no further than two feet from each end of the home and at the approximate center of the home length. CUSTOMIZATION OF THE MODEL MANUAL This manual is based on a model manufacturer's installation manual used by many different companies. It may have been customized from the model by the manufacturer. The table below lists the locations where this manual differs from the model manual. Complete Multi Section Step 3: Complete Set Hinged Roof Summary of the change Palm Harbor includes manual addenda for hinged roof systems based on model and plant specifics. Several references have been added to those in- structions through out the process described in Step 3. Install Footings Table 10 Added note indicating piers w/loads> 16K must be designed by PE Install Stabilizing Sys- tems Most tables have been modified/added to fit the PHH anchoring systems. All A number of details and descriptions, not used by PHH have been removed. Any added text is high lighted using italized font. Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. HUD Getting Started `°"°' This chapter covers a few steps that, taken now, will avoid problems later in the STEP 1. LOCATE THE DATA PLATE (p. 7) STEP 2. CONFIRM WIND ZONE (p. 7) STEP 3. CONFIRM THERMAL ZONE (p. 8) 0 STEP 4. CONFIRM ROOF -LOAD ZONE (p. 9) STEP 5. CHECK LOCAL CODES AND SECURE PERMITS (p. 10) STEP 1. LOCATE THE DATA PLATE Locate the data plate inside the home (Figure 2), typically inside a kitchen or on a wall panel or door face near the electrical panel, utility room, or bei door The information on the data plate will be used to verify that the home was designled for the proper location. STEP 2. CONFIRM WIND ZONE From Table 1, identify the wind zone for the home. Verify that the home conforms to the following rules and any special requirements determined by the LAHJ. • No home may be located in a higher wind zone than that indicated on the data plate. (Example: a home designed for Wind Zone II cannot be placed in Wind Zone III.) 1 • A home may be located in a lower wind zone than that indicated on the data plate. (Example: a home designed for Wind Zone II can be placed in either Wind Zone II or I.) i • Homes located within 1,500 feet of the coastline in Wind Zones II and III must be designed to withstand exposure'D' conditions. This will be indicated on the data plate. If the home does not conform to these rules, contact the manufacturer immediately. 2. Sample data plate ite approprietness. If the site is not accessible, not appropriate for the planned support system or cannot be properly graded, notify the purchaser, the retailer and HUD, with the reasons why the site is unsuitable. Do not install the home until all issues are remedied. 7 Getting Started p�C#® AV AW ..W � Conforms to HUD NHCSS TABLE 1. WIND ZONE BY LOCALITY fa/zo/os Wind Zone I All areas except those areas listed below as being within Wind Zone II or III Wind Zone 11 Counties of Baldwin and Mobile All counties except those listed below as within Wind Zone III Counties of Bryan, Camden, Chatham, Glynn, Liberty, McIntosh Parishes of Acadia, Allen, Ascension, Assumption, Calcasieu, Cameron, East Baton Rouge, East Feliciana, Evangeline, Iberia, Iberville, Jefferson Davis, Lafayette, Livingston, Pointe Coupee, St. Helena, St. James, St. John the Baptist, St. Landry, St. Martin, St. Tammany, Tangipahoa, Vermillion, Washington, West Baton Rouge, and West Feliciana Counties of Hancock and Washington Counties of Barnstable, Bristol, Dukes, Nantucket, and Plymouth Counties of George, Hancock, Harrison, Jackson, Pearl. River, and Stone Counties of Beaufort, Brunswick, Camden, Chowan, Columbus, Craven, Currituck, Jones, New Hanover, Onslow, Pamlico, Pasquotank, Pander, Perquimans, Tyrrell, and Washington Counties of Beaufort, Berkeley, Charleston, Colleton, Dorchester, Georgetown, Horry, Jasper, and Williamsburg Counties of Aransas, Brazoria, Calhoun, Cameron, Chambers, Galveston, Jefferson, Kennedy, Kleberg, Mata- gorda, Nueces, Orange, Refugio, San Patricio, and Willacy Cities of Chesapeake, Norfolk, Portsmouth, Princess Anne, and Virginia Beach ' Entire state Coastal regions (as determined by the 90 mph isotach on the ANSI/ASCE 7-88 map) Counties of Broward, Charlotte, Collier, Dade, Franklin, Gulf, Hendry, Lee, Martin, Manatee, Monroe, Palm Beach, Pinellas, and Sarasota Parishes of Jefferson, La Fourche, Orleans, Plaquemines, St. Bernard, St. Charles, St. Mary, and Terrebonne - . Counties of Carteret, Dare, and Hyde • - All regions of the U.S. Territories of American Samoa, Guam, Northern Mariana Islands, Puerto Rico, Trust Terri- tory of the Pacific Islands, and the United States Virgin Islands STEP 3. CONFIRM THERMAL ZONE From Figure 3, identify the thermal (UO) zone for the home. Verify that the home con- forms to the following rules. • No home may be located in an area with a higher thermal zone number than that indicated on the data plate. (Example: a home designed for Thermal Zone 2 cannot be placed in Thermal Zone 3.) • A home may be located in a lower thermal zone than that indicated on the data plate. (Example: a home designed for Thermal Zone 2 may be placed in either Thermal Zone 2 or 1.). • In no case may a home designated for installation in the "Humid & Fringe Climate," as identified on the data plate, be located outside of this region (Table 2). If the home does not conform to these rules, contact the manufacturer immediately. Ir-"-, Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. 9/22/08 WA M ND D SD W NE w UT CD ne a ® r 4YYm 611{ C®{ 60a Counties of Baldwin, Barbour, Bullock, Butler, Choctaw, Clarke, Coff Escambia, Geneva, Henry, Houston, Lowndes, Marengo, Mobile, Mc Wilcox All counties and locations Counties of Appling, Atkinson, Bacon,. Baker, Ben Hill, Berrien, Brani talon, Chatham, Clay, Clinch, Coffee; Colquitt, Cook, Crisp, Decatur, Glynn, Grady, Irwin, Jeff Davis, Lanier, Lee, Liberty, Long, Lowndes, Randolph, Seminole, Taftnall, Terrell, Thomas, Tift, Turner, Ware, W All counties and locations All counties and locations Counties of Adams, Amite, Claiborne, Clarke, Copiah, Covington, ForrestFranklin, Harrison, Hinds, Issaquena, Jackson, Jasper, Jefferson, Jefferson Davis, Jones, La Marion, Pearl River, Perry, Pike, Rankin, Simpson, Smith, Stone, Walthall, Warren, Counties of Brunswick, Carteret, Columbus, New Hanover, Onslow, and'P' ender Counties of Beaufort, Berkeley, Charleston, Colleton, Dorchester, Georgetown, and .Counties of Anderson,: Angelina, Aransas, Atascosa, Austin, Bastr Caldwell, Calhoun, Cameron, Camp, Cass, Chambers, Cherokee, Fayette, Fort Bend, Franklin, Freestone, Frio, Galveston, Goliad, ( Hams, Harrison, Hays, Henderson, Hidalgo, Hopkins, Houston,. Ja Karnes, Kaufman, Kennedy, Kinney, Kleberg, La Salle, Lavaca, Lc Marlon, Matagorda, Maverick, McMullen, Medina, Milam, Montgon Nueces, Orange, Panels, Polk, Rains, Refugio, Robertson, Rusk, cio, Shelby, Smith, Starr, Titus, Travis, Trinity, Tyler, Upshur, Uval Waller, Washington, Webb, Wharton, Willacy, Williamson, Wilson, STEP 4. CONFIRM ROOF LOAD ZONE From Table 3, identify the Roof Load Zone for the home. Verify that the home con- forms to the following rules. I • No home may be placed in an area with a higher roof load than that indicated on the data plate. (Example: a home designed for the South (20 psf) Roof Load Zone cannot be placed in the Middle (30 psf) Roof Load Zone). • A home may be located in an area with a lower roof load than that indicated on the data plate. (Example: a home designed for the Middle (30 psf) Roof Load Zone may be placed in the South (20 psf) Roof Load Zone). I • There are special high roof load areas (primarily in mountains) not shown on the map. Contact the LAHJ or SAA for information about these areas. The home's data plate will indicate if the home has been designed for one of these high roof load areas. I • Ramadas may be used in areas with roof live loads greater than 40 psf! Ramadas are to be self-supporting, except that any connection to the home must be for weatherproofing only. 3. Thermal (UO) zone Crenshaw, Dale, Washington, and in, Camden, Char - Effingham, Evans, Pierce, Quitman, , Greene, Hancock, Nrence, Lincoln, and Wilkinson )e Witt, Dimmit, Duval,. Falls, limes, Guadalupe, Hardin, arson, Jim Hogg, Jim Wells, mestone, Live Oak, Madison, doches,-Navarro, Newton, tine, San Jacinto, San Pain- Zandt, Victoria, Walker, Zavala nc. Getting Started PFS#D5 oor Conforms m HUD MRCSs mnoioa TABLE 3. ROOF LOADS BY LOCALITY North psf roof load) All counties Counties of Aroostook, Piscataquis, Somerset, Penobscot, Waldo, Knox, Hancock, Washington All counties All counties Counties of: Buena Vista, Butler, Calhoun, Cerro Gordo, Cherokee, Chickasaw, Clay, Dickinson, Emmet, Floyd, Franklin, Hamilton, Hancock, Hardin, Howard, Humboldt, Ida, Kossuth, Lyon, Mitchell, O'Brien, Osceola, Palo Alto, Plymouth, Pocahontas, Sac, Sioux, Webster, Winnebago, Worth, Wright Counties of Androscoggin, Cumberland, Franklin, Kanabec, Lincoln, Oxford, Sagadahoc, York - County of Essex Counties of Alger, Alcona, Alpena, Antrim, Baraga, Benzie, Charlevoix, Cheboygan, Chippewa, Crawford, Delta, Dickson, Emmet, Gogebic, Grand Traverse, Houghton, Iron, Kalkaska, Keweenaw, Leelanau, Luce, Mackinac, Marquette, Menominee, Missaukee, Montmorency, Ogemaw, Ontonagon, Oscoda, Otsego, Presque Isle, Ros- common, Schoolcraft, Wexford Counties of Aitkin, Anoka, Benton, Blue Earth, Brown, Cass, Carlton, Carver, Chippewa, Chisago, Cook, Cotton- wood, Crow Wing, Dakota, Dodge, Douglas, Fadbault, Fillmore, Freeborn, Goodhue, Grant, Hennepin, Hubbard, Itasca, Isanti, Jackson, Kandiyohi, Kanabec, Koochiching, Lac qui Pads, Lake, Le Sueur, Lincoln, Lyon, McLeod, Meeker, Morrison, Millie Lacs, Mower, Martin, Murray, Nicollet, Nobles, Olmsted, Pipestone, Pine, Pope, Ramsey, Redwood,Renville, Rice, Rock, St. Louis, Sibley, Scott, Steele, Sherburne, Swift, Steams, Stevens, Todd, We- dena, Wright, Washington, Wabasha, Winona, Waseca, Watonwan, Yellow Medicine All Counties • - All Counties - • Counties of Cayuga, Clinton, Essex, Erie, Franklin, Fulton, Genesee, Hamilton, Herkimer, Jefferson, Lewis, Livingston, Madison, Monroe, Montgomery, Niagara, Oneida, Onondaga, Ontario, Orleans, Oswego, St. Lawrence, Saratoga, Schenectady, Seneca, Warren, Washington, Wayne, Wyoming, Yates • . Counties of Brookings, Clay, Codington, Deuel, Grant, Hamlin, Hanson, Hutchinson, Kingsbury, Lake, Lincoln, McCook, Miner, Minnehaha, Moody, Turner, Union, Yankee All Counties Counties of Addison, Caledonia, Chittenden, Essex, Franklin, Grand Isle, Lamoille, Orange, Orleans, Rutland, Washington, Windsor Counties of Ashland, Bayfield, Barron, Buffalo, Bumett, Clark, Chippewa, Door, Douglas, Dunn, Eau Claire, Flor- ence, Forest, Iron, Jackson, Langlade, Lincoln, Marathon, Marinette, Menominee, Oconto, Oneida, Pepin, Pierce, Polk, Price, Rusk, St. Croix, Sawyer, Taylor, Trempealeau, Vilas, Washburn All Counties s • - The states and counties not listed for the Middle or North roof load zone above are deemed to be within the South roof load zone. Is thedata plate • - and the home placed appropriate . roof load • - 1110- YES, • • to STEP'5, CHECK LOCAL CODES • 1 III NO, Stop installation activities and notify the home retailer, purchaser • HUD. STEP 5. CHECK LOCAL CODES AND SECURE PERMITS Local regulations may set conditions for the siting and installation of a manufactured / 1 home. Consult the LAHJ, state manufactured housing association, and the state SAA (See Resources, p. 2) for the specific local requirements, including: Areas subject to flooding. • Building codes that may affect the construction of site built structures and in- The foundation specifica- frastruclure. tions contained in this manual are NOT intended �1 Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. 9/22108 10 • Local requirements regulating the installation of manufactured homes. • Setback requirements for property lines, streets, yards, and courts. • Fire separation distances. • Development covenants for the specific property. The locations of flood hazard areas and any special foundation requirements for homes installed in those areas. I • In some areas, building permits are required to install manufactured homes. Prior to making any alteration to the site and the home, contact the LAHJ to determine if plan approval and permits are required. I address flood loads. If home is in the flood ain, consult a registered 11 Prepare the Site HUD MHCSS 10/20/08 A properly prepared site is critical to a good quality installation and the long tens structural stability of the home. This chapter explains the process of planning the site, evaluating the soil, and preparing the site for construction of the home's support system. STEP 1. PLAN SITE ACCESS (p. 12) STEP 2. DETERMINE HOME LOCATION AND LAYOUT (p. 12) STEP 3. CLEAR AND GRADE THE SITE (p. 13) STEP 4. DETERMINE SOIL CONDITIONS (p. 13) STEP 5. DETERMINE SOIL BEARING CAPACITY AND FROST LINE (p. 13) STEP 6. DETERMINE GROUND ANCHOR HOLDING CAPACITY (p. 14) STEP 1. PLAN SITE ACCESS Planning the route to the site is typically the responsibility of the retailer or transporta- tion company. Whoever is responsible must secure state permits from the states through which the home will pass. In planning the route, avoid obstructions that might interfere with the passage of the home, such as low hanging wires and trees, low overpasses, and bridges not suitable for the load. Contact the utility company if wires need to be moved. Do not allow branches, bushes, or other foliage to scrape against the home as the home is moved to the site. Avoid ditches, berms, steep slopes, and soft ground. Identify and fill any holes and soft spots into which the transporters wheels may sink. Avoid moving over steep changes in grade (20 degrees or more). If required, provide for home storage and staging areas on the site. Plan the delivery and staging of home sections and materials so that after all deliveries are complete, home sections and materials can be accessed for use and installed in the appropriate sequence. Orient home sections so they do not have to be rotated or excessively ma- neuvered during the installation process. Plan for temporary needs, such as dump- sters, portable toilets, crew parking, delivery vehicle drop-offs and concrete mixer de- liveries. Before moving the manufactured home to the site, inform the LAHJ and make sure the site is prepared and utilities are available. STEP 2. DETERMINE HOME LOCATION AND LAYOUT The home location may have already been determined by others. If not, plan the home location and layout in compliance with the regulations researched in Getting Started, STEP 5. CHECK LOCAL CODES AND SECURE PERMITS (p. 7). Contact utilities for locations of existing infrastructure, such as underground cables, pipes, and electrical lines. When planning the site improvements, consider the following: • The home location should be level. • Avoid contact with large trees, steep slopes, poorly drained areas, and poten- tial flood zones. • Preserve trees and shrubs for shade, visual screens, and windbreaks. • Plan the driveway, parking areas, septic, well, other structures, and utility lines. F !sr re Site Preparation. The home manufacturer has no con- trol over the site planning and installation of the home unless the manufacturer is responsible for the home's installation. Final responsi- bility for site preparation, including soil stability and frost heave control, lies with the installer. An improperly prepared site may result in the denial of a foundation - related warranty claim. ! l/. Fire separation. Comply with any IAHJ fire separa- tion requirements or the re- quirements NFPA 501A, 2003 edition (Chapter 6). ifj ➢iAC,s • Consider future additions, such as screen rooms, porches, and • Site the home away from natural water paths. STEP 3. CLEAR AND GRADE THE SITE Trim overhanging foliage considering future growth, potential storms, swaying in 'Wind and snow/ice-weighted branches. Remove organic material such as vegetation, wood, roots, twigs, dead branches, grass, and brush from directly under the home. Remove any debris that could become termite infested from the site and surrounding area Re- move all other debris from the home location, including roots from beneath footing loca- tions. Properly dispose of all items. I Crown the site (Figure 4) away from the foundation for the first ten feet with a minimum slope of 1/2 inch per foot. Where property lines, walls, slopes, or other physical condi- tions prohibit this slope, provide the site with drains, swales, or grading to drain water away from the structure. Any fill required to grade the site should be inorganic "con- trolled fill" applied in a maximum of four inch layers, compacted between each layer to at least 90% of its maximum relative density. Direct runoff away from the site using. ditches and berms (Figure 5). If the home will have skirting, start grading from two feet in from the edge of the home. 11 k_ H se y y � y Armm Indicate direction of water flow. Grade the ground so that water under porches, decks, and recessed entries flow', away from the home. If proper grading is not possible, use other methods such as a drain tile and automatic sump pump system to remove any water that may collect un- der the home. G The home is suitable for the installation of gutters and downspouts. When and downspouts are installed, direct runoff away from the home. 171 The home is not suitable for the installation of gutters and downspouts. STEP 4. DETERMINE SOIL CONDITIONS j Examine the soil type under the proposed home location to make sure it is suitable for placement of a home. The design of the home's support system, including footing/pier spacing and size, will in part be determined by the bearing capacity of the soil, and if ground anchors are used, by the soil's withdrawal strength. The soil under every portion of the support system must meet the following criteria: • The soil must be firm and undisturbed (not previously excavated) or fill com- pacted to at least 90% of its maximum relative density. Uncompacted fill will settle over time, causing the home to shift and become unlevel. • Fill must not contain large debris. This too will settle over time. • The soil must not be comprised of organic clays or peat. Organic material can ite drainage. Moisture un- der the home can result in structural damage to the Floor system and other parts of the home. Failure to provide adequate slope/drainage can result in moisture -related problems such as mold, mildew, and erosion. lure 4. Crown the soil un- the home to prevent wa- ponding lure 5. Direct runoff away m the home oil. Inadequate soil bearing capacity or a support sys- tem mismatched to the soil characteristics can result in excessive or differential settlement of the home, which can cause the home to go out of level, resulting in jammed doors and win- D r 3 Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. 13 s 's [0 decay, causing settlement, and also may harbor pests that can infest the home. • The water table must be below the lowest level of the planned support sys- tem/foundation. A soil's bearing capacity can be greatly reduced when it is saturated with water. Note that water tables may vary with seasonal or cli- mactic conditions. Consult a geologist or the LAHJ if you are unsure of the water table level. The soil must not be a highly expansive type. Expansive soils can expand when they become saturated with water, causing the home to shift and be- come unlevel. If soils are expansive, contact a registered engineer, or regis- tered architect to assist with the design of the foundation system. STEP 5. DETERMINE SOIL -BEARING CAPACITY AND FROST LINE The soil under a home must be capable of withstanding the loads imposed by the weight of the home, its support system and furnishings, as well as any loads imposed by wind, snow, or other climactic conditions. SOIL -BEARING CAPACITY Determine the soil -bearing capacity in pounds per square foot (psf) before designing a support system. The higher the capacity (psf), the more weight the soil can hold without unduly compressing. As the soil -bearing capacity increases, footings can be reduced in size or spaced farther apart. Use one or more of the following methods to determine the site's soil bearing capacity: • Test the soil. Hire a registered geologist, registered engineer, or registered architect to determine the soil classification and maximum allowable soil bear- ing capacity by testing the soil in accordance with generally accepted engi- neering practice. • Obtain soil records. The local office of the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Natural Resources Conservation Service (www.soils.usda.cov) and/or the LAHJ may have test results and/or soil analyses on file for the area. • Conduct a pocket penetrometer test. Use a pocket penetrometer to esti- mate allowable soil -bearing capacity as follows: 1. Select a location that will be under a footing. 2. Clear an area of a minimum of one square foot at least four inches deep or to the depth of the bottom of the planned footing. 3. Using the instructions provided with the pocket penetrometer, take at least five readings. 4. Discard the high and low readings and average the remaining readings. Round this result down to the nearest soil -bearing value shown in the right column of Table 4. 5. Confirm that the rounded result matches the soil description on Table 4. • Determine soil -bearing value by visual examination. If one of the options above is not available, the values on Table 4 can be used to establish soil - bearing capacity by visual examination. This method provides lower capacity values than the options above. Accurate soil identification typically requires special training or expertise. An engineer or building code official may be able to assist in classifying the soil found on the site. dows, cracks in finishes and ruptured plumbing connections. i 0 /'d Soil bearing capacity. Sup- port systems on soils with bearing capacities less than 1,000 psf must be designed by a registered engineer or registered architect and approved by the LAHJ. Limitations of pocket pene- trometers. Pocket pene- trometers do not work on sand or gravel. Use Table 4 to determine allowable pressure for these types of soils. If you encounter a layer of gravel, test the soil under the gravel. Do not put the penetrometer on stones larger than its tip as this will provide an inaccu- rate reading. Palm 14 SOIL TYPE r hard pan. (class 1) 4,000 gravel and gravel; very dense and/or cemented sands; 21000 gravel/cobbles; preloaded silts, clays and coral (class 2) 1,500 Clay, sandy clay, silty clay, clayey silt (classes 4A and 4B) 1,000 Uncompacted fill, peat, organic clays (class.5) Professional Note to table; No allowances made for overburden pressure, embedment depth, w height, or settlement problems. Use default capacity. Use an allowable pressure of 1,500 psf, unlesssite- specific information requires the use of lower values based on soil classifica- tion and type according to Table 4. Note that soil types may vary across a home site. In this case, the soil with the lowest bearing capacity should be assumed when designing the support system. Keep' a re- cord of the soil -bearing capacity value; it will be used later to design the home's sup- port system. FROST LINE In climates subject to ground freezing, consult the LAHJ, a registered engmeerjor reg- istered architect to determine the depth of the frost line. Figure 6 may be used es a guideline when there is no specific local determination. Keep a record of the frost depth; it will be used later to design the home's support system. I STEP 6. DETERMINE GROUND ANCHOR HOLDING CAPAC- ITY When using auger -type ground anchors to tie down the home, first, use a torque probe to determine the anchor -holding strength of the soil on the site. Figure 6. Average frost penetration depth (in feet) i 1 // Torque Probe. Before using the torque probe, check with the utility companies for the location of under- ground cables or pipes to avoid contact with the probe shaft. Inc. IE HUD DIHCSS Use a torque probe with a shaft of sufficient length to test the soil at the depth of the Ioaoioa anchor helical plate. Augur the probe into the ground, and following the probe manufac- turers instructions, take the torque wrench reading in the area where the anchors will be installed and at the depth of the anchor helix. If the soil varies in consistency across the site, then use the lowest reading. Based on this reading, consult the anchor manu- facturer's charts to select the anchor type(s). ral Install Footings AIHCSS This chapter provides instructions for the design and construction of individual footings that tran"sfer the load from a single pier to the ground. A footing and pier together (discussed in Set the Home) is referred to as a ""support." A footing may also be designed to carry the load of multiple piers (often called "strip" footings). The design of strip footings is not cov- ered in this manual. 1 11 STEP 1. DESIGN POINT LOAD SUPPORTS (p. 17) STEP 2. DESIGN FRAME SUPPORTS (Homes Without Perimeter STEP 3. DESIGN FRAME AND PERIMETER SUPPORTS (Homes STEP 4. SELECT FOOTING MATERIALS (p. 22) STEP 5. SIZE FOOTINGS (p. 22) STEP 6. INSTALL FOOTINGS (p. 25) STEP 1. DESIGN POINT LOAD SUPPORTS All homes will need supports, and therefore footings, under the frame, marriage line (for multi -section homes), exterior wall openings and other heavy point loads. The home manufacturer may have provided a blocking diagram (or tags, labels, paint or other markings under the home) indicating the required locations and/or loads for perimeter, marriage line and/or frame supports specifically for this home. If so, the dia- gram or tags take precedence over the directions provided in this manual. Create a sketch of the home that includes the exterior walls, the frame I -beams and the marriage line(s), if a multi -section home. The sketch will be used in this chapter to lo- cate each support, and note the size of the corresponding footing. Figure 7 is anlex- ample of such a support plan. ehe _1 ce. Perineler came wal 'ers As the location and load for each support is determined, note it on the sketch. selecting locations for supports, keep in mind that increasing the spacing betv sup- (p.21) ligh roof loads. For roof loads of 40 psf or greater, a registered engineer or registered architect must determine the maximum marriage wall opening permitted without pier or other supports. ire 7. Example of sup - plan 17 Conforms to JHcs ports will increase the load on that support and the size of the required footing. xuo Ojos ronoros DETERMINE LOCATIONS Point loads exist where a bearing/structural weight is concentrated and transferred to the foundation at a specific point. Locate a support under each point load, including the following examples: • Exterior doors on side walls at both sides of each door (blocking is not re- quired at exterior doors on non -bearing end walls). • Other exterior wall openings four feet and greater at both sides of each open- ing (including multiple windows that total four feet wide or more without inter- mediate supports, even if individual windows are less than four feet). • Marriage line openings four feet or greater at both sides of each opening (where marriage line openings are greater than 10 feet, intermediate supports must be placed at maximum 10 feet on center). • Locations where through -the -rim crossover ducts penetrate the rim joist at the marriage line (unless otherwise noted in supplemental documents provided with the home or unless the home is constructed with a perimeter frame sys- tem). • Marriage line columns. • Load -bearing porch posts. • Under heavy (400 Ibs or greater) items, such as heavy furniture, waterbeds, fireplaces and large fish tanks when located outboard of the home's main (- beams. Mark the required point load support locations on the sketch. Supports are not required where the manufacturer has reinforced the floor (such as with additional outriggers or floor joists) and so noted in the documentation provided with the home. Figure 8 and Figure 9 identify typical point load support locations. NO Figure 8. Typical point -load support locations ip 8' Door or Oper Than 46In. h Ridge Beam Wall more Column Poo or than 16 in. in Wall, Less Than 16 Span A Grade Footing Fasting Sized for Single Footing Sized for Span Footing Sized Sized for Spans Cando BorC for Span Aa Span respectively. INele: If Well is Less Than 16 in, In Width, Use Combined Span C +D with a Single Pier) CALCULATE LOADS Use Table 5 to determine the loads on point -load supports. For each support, find columns with the appropriate roof load zone and section width. Find the row(s) col sponding to the span. See Figure 9 for guidance on determining spans. The load: the "M"-column are for one section only! When support(s) exist on the opposite se in the same location, add the respective loads from each section together to arrive the total load under that point. The number in the columns under the "M" and "P" headings are the loads for supp along the marriage line and perimeter respectively (point loads in the center of a s tion, i.e. not along a marriage line or perimeter wall, require the load in the "P" colt Interpolation for openings between those shown in the table is permitted. Note the required loads next to each point load support on the sketch. TABLE 5. LOAD ON POINT -LOAD FOOTINGS Q 466 566 546 646 620 720 622 766 728 868 826 816 1016 956 1156 1085 1285 1089 1369 1275 1555 1446 ® 1166 1466 1366 1666 1550 1850 1555 1975 1822 2242 2066 m 1516 1916 1776 2176 2015 2415 2022 2582 2368 2928 2686 m 1866 2366 2186 2686 2480 2980 2489 3189 2915 3615 3306 2216 2816 2596 3196 2945 3545 2955 3795 3462 4302 3926 = MArriana line_ P = Perimeter NIHCSS in at 777 1944 3111 9. Typical point -load locations along the e line II AROFa,,:... ar"fiery C. pp �OIl1I1��� The Installation Manual shipped with the home should include a layout with point load locations and total loads. Use Table 5 only when a model specific layout Is not available. II i 7 911 1091 1033 1213 1 1594 1954 1808 2168 4 2277 2817 2583 3123 1 3644 4544 4133 5033 4 4327 5407 4908 5988 19 STEP 2. DESIGN FRAME SUPPORTS (Homes Without Pe- rimeter Blocking) DETERMINE LOCATIONS All homes require regularly spaced supports along all main frame 1-beams. Select spacing between supports and sketch them on the support plan. Keep in mind that frame supports under homes with 8" deep I -beams may be no more than eight feet apart. Those under homes with 10" or 12" deep 1-beams may be no more than 10 feet apart. Generally, greater distances between supports will require larger footings. Figure 10 shows typical frame support locations. Shearwall Pier I -Beam Porch Post Piers Door Door Piers ]-Seam Frame Members Frame Piers Marriage Wall Piers - Frame Piers 24" maxto 1st pier Typical CALCULATE LOADS Use Table 6 to determine the loads on frame supports. Find the column with the ap- propriate roof load zone and section width. Find the row corresponding to the selected support spacing. The number in the intersecting cell is the load. Loads on all frame supports can be assumed to be equal if support spacing is equal. However, if different support spacings are used then each support with a different spacing should be calculated separately. Note the location and load required of each support on the sketch. HOMES NOT REQUIRING PERIMETER 2410 2690 2960 2700 3000 4600 5155 5740 5170 Spans shown undedinded apply only when data plate indicates 'NO PERIMETER BLOCKING REQUIRED" 3330 HUD a1DCSS 1020/08 i vZz Spacing frame supports. There must be a support located near the end of each I-beam such that there is no more than 12 inches of beam past the edge of the support. Figure 10. Typical support locations for homes not re- quiring regularly spaced pe- rimeter supports III 4 : •yam _ 4 v. zz pR0:ESS:0A111L: r . s b o O . PERIMETER BLOCKING RE- QUIRED 20 STEP 3. DESIGN FRAME AND PERIMETER SUPPORTS (Homes With Perimeter Blocking) DETERMINE LOCATIONS Depending on design and location, some homes require regularly spaced perimeter supports along all of the sidewalls and marriage walls in addition to frame supports! This will be indicated on the data plate and/or documents included with the home. ! If required, perimeter supports are only needed on bearing walls. Bearing walls are those walls that support the ends of roof trusses or rafters (typically sidewalls and mar- riage walls but not end walls of main units or sidewalls of tag units). I To minimize the number of required perimeter supports, space them evenly between point load supports as shown in Figure 11 and Figure 12 (but not under spans). These figures identify typical support locations for homes requiring perimeter supports. i Perimeter piers are in addition to piers added at column supports and large sidewall openings. In addition, the piers under the columns and sidewall openings must include the load determined for the adjacent perimeter piers. (Le.: add % the load deter � mined from Table 7 to the load determined for the point loads from Table 5) Marriage line supports Door or Opening Lew Combined Span (A+p Than<sm.m Wdtn Mile Beam fine suppod rame wall lets Wall, Less Than 16 on. or Width Grade lme support CALCULATE LOADS Use Table 7 to determine the loads on frame and perimeter supports for homes ing perimeter blocking. Find the column with the appropriate roof load (Table 3) F;r tit, Y F, -ing frame supports. Bre must be a support ated near the end of :h I-beam such that re is no more than 12 hes of beam past the 3e of the support. 11. Typical support Is for homes requiring ersupports Ire 12. Typical marriage support locations for as requiring perimeter 21 section width. Find the group of rows corresponding to the selected support spacing. The values in the intersecting cells are the loads for the frame, perimeter, and marriage line supports respectively. Loads on supports of a given type (frame, perimeter, or marriage) can be assumed to be equal if support spacing is equal. However, if different support spacings are used then each support with a different spacing should be calculated separately. Note the location and load required of each support on the sketch. 0 ON FRAME AND PERIMETER SUPPORTS `-a HUD MHCSS �a Hai 'DiJ10/20/08 t �q�P.,. e. 21 f ,34! •• 965 1060 1150 965 1060 1150 965 1060 1150 1190 1360 1550 1475 1670 1900 1760 1985 2250 2055 2475 2860 2520 3020 3480 2990 3570 4100 1450 1585 1715 1450 1585 1715 1450 1585 1715 1780 2035 2325 2210 2505 2850 2640 2975 3375 3080 3710 4290 3780 4530 5220 4480 5350 6150 1925 2115 2285 1925 2115 2285 1925 2115 2285 2375 2715 3100 2950 3340 3800 3520 3970 4500 4110 4950 5720 5040 6040 6960 5975 7135 8200 2405 2645 2860 2405 2645 2860 2405 2645 2860 SEE 8FT ROW SEE 8FT ROW STEP 4. SELECT FOOTING MATERIAL Select one of the products and materials from Table 8 for the footings. TABLE 8. FOOTING MATERIALS SEE 8FT ROW Specification Minimum 6" thick poured -in -place concrete pads, slabs, or ribbons with at least a 28 Poured concrete All soil types day compressive strength of 3,000 psi. Cast -in -place concrete footings may also require reinforcing steel based on acceptable engineering practice, the design loads, and site specific soil conditions. Minimum 4" thick nominal precast concrete pads meeting or exceeding ASTM C Pre -cast concrete All soil types 90-02a, Standard Specification for Load Bearing Concrete Masonry Units, without reinforcement, with at least a 28-day compressive strength of 2,500 psi. Use in accordance with the pad manufacturer's instructions. Must be certified for ASS plastic Stable soils use in the soil classification at the site, listed and labeled for the required load ca- pacity. Proprietary systems Consult system manufac- Consult system manufacturer. turer STEP 5. SIZE FOOTINGS Once the load on the footing and the soil -bearing capacity are known, calculate the ' // Frost protection. When se- lecting footing materials, bear in mind the need for frost protection. Not all foot- ing materials are suitable nc. 22 HUD size of each footing as follows: ,wquiva 1. From Table 9 determine if the pier is to be of single -stack blocks (8 inch z16 inch) or double -stack blocks (16 inch x 16 inch) pier. 2. Locate the group of rows in Table 10 with the soil -bearing capacity deter mined in Prepare the Site, STEP 5. DETERMINE SOIL -BEARING CAPAC- ITY AND FROST LINE (p. 14). Use the next lowest value if the exact value does not appear. 3. Read across the table to determine the minimum required footing area and the minimum footing thickness for the corresponding footing type (single or double -stacked blocks). 4. The required footing size may be changed by selecting another support spac ing (Table 6 or Table 7). 1 TABLE 9. PIER CONFIGURATION Less than 36 in (except corner piers more than 3 blocks high) Single -stack blocks with long side perpendicular to I-beam 8,0001bs. Between 36 in and 67 in and cor- Double, interlocked blocks 16,000 lbs. ner piers over 3 blocks high Over 67 in Double, interlocked blocks 16,000 lbs. 54 in or less Single -stack blocks with long side I 8.000 lbs. parallel to perimeter rail (rim joist) 64 in or less t Single -sack blocks with long side B4O00IIbs. perpendicular to the marriage line I h r freezing climates. nc. 23 0 TABLE 10. FOOTING DIMENSIONS HUD MHCSS 10/20/08 8 in. x 16 in. pier (single -stack 16 in. x 16 in. pier (double blocks) blocks) MEmrffmm� 256 16 X 16 6 600 6 -stack R. N/A 324 18 X 18 6 800. 6 N/A 400 20 X 20 6 1030 6 580 576 24 X 24 6 1550 6 1100 900 30 X 30 6 2500 6 2050 1296 36 X36 6 3675 6 3225 256 16 X 16 6 1490 6 1045 324 18 X 18 6 1930 6 1480 400 20 X 20 6 2420 6 1970 576 24.X 24 6 3550 6 3100 900 30 X 30 6 5630 6 5180 1296 36 X36 7 8060 6 7725 256 16 X 16 6 2380 6 1930 324 _.._ 18 X 18 6 3055 6 2600 400 20 X 20 6 3810 6 3360 576 24 X 24 6 5550 6 5100 900 30 X 30 7 8680 6 8300 1296 36 X36 8 12450 6 12100 256 16 X 16 6 3270 6 2820 324 18 X 18 6 4180 6 3730 400 20 X 20 6 5200 6 4750 576 24 X 24 6 7550 6 7100 900 30 X 30 8 11725 6 11400 1296 36 X36 10 16725 7 16600 256 16 X 16 6 4160 6 3710 324 18 X 18 6 5300 6 4850 2500 400 20 X 20 6 6600 6 6130 576 24 X 24 6 9550 6 9100 900 30 X 30 8 14850 6 14550 1296 36 X36 11 21110 8 21000 256 16 X 16 6 6830 6 6380 324 18 X 18 6 8680 6 8230 00 400 20 X 20 6 10760 6 10300 576 24 X 24 8 15450 6 15100 900 30 X 30 11 23990 7 23850 1296 36 X36 13 34390 10 34275 Note: The capacity values listed have been reduced by the dead load of the concrete footing and pier. p 11110 JJ.V Design footings to comply with the following additional requirements: • Design each footing at least slightly larger than the base of the pier it sup- ports. �� i� Y` Z� by •• • To keep footings directly under 1-beams and other support points, size them slightly larger than the minimum required area to allow slight adjustment of S o the pier location during home installation. t pj$o-Ef4�-:ONAL; • Design footings with a footing extension (projection beyond the base of the - _ J. 24 to pier) no greater than the footing thickness (Figure 13). Increase footing ness if necessary. 6'Bbk 4-1 T 4' -I- 41 T)p_L 24' YESey I1s7M1Cmass NO Than tsTFirlmess Or Lea Split Pooling Extends YES Less Than One Third itswdlh Ir4t Spirt Footing Extends NO More Than One Third itswdth NO YES • The footing sizes shown are for square pads and are based on the s area (square inches). Design non -square footings such that the area depth is equal to or greater than the area and depth of the square fol shown in Table 10, and the distance from the edge of the pier to the the footing is not more than the thickness of the footing. • For four -inch thick unreinforced precast concrete footings, use the m footing size for the six-inch cast -in -place footing from Table 10. STEP 6. INSTALL FOOTINGS Construct the footings as follows: • Maintain the distance between adjacent piers to within 10% of the tabu spacing and so the average distance between any adjacent spans is e or less than the tabulated spacing. • Whenever possible, place point load supports directly under the requin cations. If plumbing, electrical, mechanical equipment interferes, place ports no more than 6 inches in either direction of the support point. • Recess perimeter blocking supports and perimeter point load supports more than 10 inches from the edge of the floor with added support as in Figure 14. 4x4 Or 2-2x4'S On Edge (Nailed Together) Spanning Mnhnm2 FborJoists Rim Plate Vr M. Setback From Edge Of Floor of to 0 Joist 13. Maximum footing 'lacing Concrete anchors. If anchors will be placed in concrete, follow instructions in Install Stabilizing Sys- tem (p. 60) to determine anchor layout. Either place anchors immediately after the concrete has been poured or drill them in after the concrete has set. 'igure 14. Perimetersup- 25 • If footings are rectangular, orient them so that the long side is perpendicular to the home's I-beam. • Place the bottom of footings on undisturbed soil or fill compacted to at least 90% of its maximum relative density. • In freezing climates protect footings from the effects of frost heave in accor- dance with any LAHJ requirements (see Prepare the Site, p. 12). Place the bottom of the footings below the frost line (insulated foundations and mono- lithic slabs are other frost protection options not covered in this manual). • Make sure the top surface of the footing is level, flat, and smooth. • In accordance with the American Concrete Institute publication ACI-308, maintain curing measures before construction or installation onto the concrete footing begins, until a minimum of 70% of the specified 28-day compressive strength has been achieved. The ACI recommended time to attain this level of strength is seven days for ASTM C150 Type 1 mixtures and 10 days for Type II mixtures. Full design live and dead loads may not be applied until the 28- day duration has elapsed for achieving full strength. @Excavation. If excavation is required, mark the footing locations on the ground with stakes before beginning to dig. 10V to 1 Construct Foundation (FOR HOMES WITH LOAD -BEARING PERIMETER WALL) This chapter provides guidelines and recommendations for the design and consti foundation using a load -bearing perimeter wall. A load -bearing perimeter wall fou outer edge of the home to support the home's outside walls. This perimeter supp piers, columns, and cross beams that support the home's frame and, if multi -sect STEP 1. OBTAIN A FOUNDATION DESIGN (p. 27) STEP 2. EXCAVATE (p. 27) STEP 3. CONSTRUCT THE FOOTING OR SLAB (p. 27) STEP 4. CONSTRUCT THE PERIMETER WALL (p. 27) STEP 5. INSTALL INTERIOR SUPPORTS (p. 28) STEP 6. WATERPROOF FOUNDATION WALL (p. 28) STEP 7. BACKFILL AND GRADE (p. 28) Muhb 1 V08 1 i ion of a basement or crawlspace 3tion system uses a wall along the works with interior supports such as marriage line. STEP 1. OBTAIN A FOUNDATION DESIGN I If a load -bearing perimeter wall foundation design has not been provided by the home manufacturer, it is the responsibility of the retailer and/or home owner to provide a de- sign approved by an engineer or architect, licensed in the state where the home will be installed. The approved design must comply with the LAHJ regulations for foundation design, waterproofing, and drainage, and the following: • The foundation perimeter bearing wall must be supported with a concrete slab or continuous strip footing around the perimeter of the home. Interior piers must be supported by a slab or footings. If footings are used under interior piers, they may be designed as in Prepare Footings, p. 17. I • Slabs must extend to the edges of the home. • Footings and slabs must be protected from the effects of frost heave tending the footings to or below the frost line or by using a frost prote shallow foundation design. STEP2.EXCAVATE Excavate for the foundation, properly disposing of the earth that is not needed backfill or site -grading purposes. STEP 3. CONSTRUCT THE FOOTINGS OR SLAB Construct the foundation according to the approved design, including the foundation wall, drainage system, footing(s), and/or slab. STEP 4. CONSTRUCT THE PERIMETER WALL Unless the approved design requires otherwise, construct the perimeter wall with mor- tared and reinforced concrete blocks or reinforced poured -in -place concrete. Install re- inforcement according to the approved design or LAHJ. Install ventilation and access openings according to the approved design, or if not specified, according to the re- quirements in Complete Under the Home, STEP 3 INSTALL SKIRTING (p. 95);. When constructing pockets for an H-beam system, measure the beam depth and lo- cate the pockets carefully. It is critical that when the home's frame rests on top of the H-beam, the perimeter of the floor rests squarely on the foundation wall sill plate Using engineered designs. (This section is NOT in- Itended to provide a com- Iplete design for a buildable 'foundation. Acomplete design must be obtained that is suitable for the local area and sealed by a pro- fessional engineer or regis- tered architect, licensed in the state. Foundation ready home. Make sure that homes to be installed on a basement or a crawlspace have been ordered with a recessed frame or as foundation - ready, where the frame is designed to avoid interfer- ence with the foundation wall. Checking the water table. For basements, check for a high water table. The water table may vary seasonally or based on weather condi- tions. A geologist can per- form an algae test to de- termine the water table level. The foundation de- sign must account for a ►r1 n is to (Figure 15). Leave room for a two-inch nominal, pressure treated wood spacer on top of the wall pockets (to prevent corrosion, the steel beams must not be in direct contact with concrete). Leave at least one inch for thermal expansion at the ends of the beams and maintain a minimum of two inches of bearing area for the beams in the pockets (yielding a minimum pocket depth of three inches). Bolt a pressure treated wood sill plate (minimum 2 x 6) to the top of the foundation wall. If the home's siding cannot be nailed through, use a 2 x 10 sill plate that extends into the foundation 1-1/4 inches (Figure 16). The home can then be connected to the foundation by fastening the sill plate into the floor joists from below. Connect the home to the foundation according to the approved design. Recess nuts into the sill plate and cut off the ends of bolts so they do not project above the sill plate and interfere with the placement of the home. T�Iln �_, PressueTreatetlSill Plate Transverse H.b= Treatm R STEP 5. INSTALL INTERIOR SUPPORTS Install piers, columns and H-beams to support the interior of the home according to the approved design. STEP 6. DAMP PROOF FOUNDATION WALL Damp-proof the foundation wall no less than up to the height of the planned backfill. STEP 7. BACKFILL AND GRADE Backfill against the foundation wall to the height of the damp proofing.Take care to not damage the drainage system. Grade the fill as per Prepare the Site (p. 12). high water table. 10i20i08 Level the wall. Make sure the foundation is level and straight with no more than a 1/4 inch vertical variation over the entire foundation and no more than 1/8 inch vertical variation over any two -foot length. Check for Plates. When us- ing an H-beam system, check and compensate for reinforcement plates that add thickness to the chas- sis beam at axle locations. Figure 15. H-beam installa- tion Figure 16. Connection using 2 x 10 sill plate @Limits of exca- vation. When a crane will be used, excavate no more than two feet outside the foundation perimeter. Un- excavated ground will pro- vide a more stable base for the crane. Footing heights. Pour foot- ings to a height that will re- duce the need to cut blocks or shim when building peri- meter walls and piers. Backfilling. Backfill against basement walls only after the home is connected to the foundation or the basement walls may deflect inward or collapse. nc. W Set the Home HUD This chapter describes the process of installing the first section of the home (for tion) onto the foundation. STEP 1. PREPARE FOR SET (p. 29) ® STEP 2. POSITION HOME SECTION (p. 29) STEP 3. LIFT HOME (p. 29) STEP 4. CONSTRUCT PIERS (p. 31) STEP 1. PREPARE FOR SET Before beginning the home set, complete the following: • Confirm that the site is properly cleared and graded (see Prepare the Si 12. • Ensure that the footings are in place and properly located. • Install any utilities that will be difficult to install (e.g. those below grade b neath the home) after the home is in place. • Secure or remove from the home and properly store all ship loose items to shipping documents for items shipped with the home). • Inspect the home interior, exterior and all provided materials, appliances equipment. Immediately report any damage or shortages to the manufa( • The ground moisture retarder may be installed now or after the home is plete. See Complete Exterior Work, STEP 2. INSTALL GROUND MOI TURE RETARDER (p. 94) for requirement and then return here. For perimeter bearing wall foundations: section homes this is the only sec - a • Check that the length and width of the home match with the foundation walls. • Check that the two main diagonal measurements of the foundation are equal. • Check that the foundation walls and other support points are within 1/4 irich of level overall and within 1/8 inch of level within any four foot distance. • For multi -section homes, check that each pair of diagonal measurements for each portion of the foundation corresponding to a home section are equal. • For multi -section homes, find the electrical bonding lugs on the front or rear outriggers. Reverse them to the inside of the outrigger using star washers so they will be accessible after the home is placed on the foundation walls. • If using an H-beam system, remove the frame's shackle hanger if it will inter- fere with proper placement of the beam. I STEP 2. POSITION HOME SECTION Position the home section in its final location (if possible, move the heaviest section of the home into place first). Then place materials needed to construct support piers neat their final locations under the home as determined in Prepare Footings, (p. 17). I STEP 3. LIFT HOME There are three primary methods available to place the home on the foundation: jack- ing, rolling and craning. Jacks, often with roller systems, are typically used for pier and anchor foundations; roller systems are commonly used for crawlspace foundations with load -bearing perimeter walls; and cranes are most commonly used for basementifoun- dations. arances under the ,me. After the home is (eled, the resulting dis- ice between the bottom the entire chassis main me beam and the wnd must be no less 3n 12 inches. cribbing. homes tons. No under the :r it is mov- try) unless g is in place :ailure to util- )bing may us injury or 'r/ Leveling during jacking. Keep the home's floor as level as possible during jacking. Twisting or warping the floor can dam- age the structure and finish- ing. Use as many jacks as necessary to keep the floor flat and level. D r 29 JACKS If jacks are to be used, comply with all jacking safety precautions and the procedure below. Lifting the home with jacks involves potential risks and must be done with ut- most care and caution. Failure to followjacking warnings and procedures may result in serious injury or death. Please read the Jacking Safety Precautions before lifting the home with jacks. • No one should be under the home's I -beams while the jacks are being oper- ated or while the home is supported only on the jacks. • Use jacks only for raising the home. Do not rely on the jacks to support the home. • If possible, raise the home only on one side so that the other side is in contact with the ground. Leave the hitch connected to the vehicle or other stabilizing equipment. • Obey all OSHA regulations. • Make sure adequate safety cribbing (Figure 17) is in place whenever the home is placed on jacks. • Use a minimum of two commercial quality jacks, each with a rating of at least 12 tons. • Jack only on the main chassis I-beam, centering jacks directly under the beam. • Do not jack on a seam Qoint between Flanges of twin 1-beams). • To distribute the concentrated loads from jacks to I-beam, place a minimum 3/8-inch thick steel plate, a C-channel, a 1 Y-inch thick hardwood block or a commercial jacking plate, between the main chassis I-beam and the jack head. • Locate the jack base on firm ground. Never jack on freshly disturbed soil or where an underground sewer pipe may be located. • Use a firm support under the jack base to prevent tipping or settling of the jack. A minimum 16" x 16" or larger wood or rigid fiberglass pad is recommended. Never use concrete blocks as a support for a jack. Follow the jacking sequence outlined below to avoid overstressing structural members: 1. Block wheels. Block the wheels so the house does not roll. 2. Install cribbing. Install safety cribbing (Figure 17). - -- -- - - 0QtS-11 3. Level lengthwise. Locate one jack at the hitch and level the section length- wise (such that the front and rear of the section are at the same height). 4. Locate frame jacks. Place a minimum of one jack just forward of the first spring hanger and another just behind the last spring hanger of the I-beam on the side of the home that is lowest (making sure not to place jacks where the piers will go). Place jacks no more than 20 feet apart and no more than 20 feet from each end of the I-beam. 5. Lift the home. Operating the jacks simultaneously (or sequentially in very small increments), lift the home section until it is slightly higher than the final desired pier height. ROLLER SYSTEMS When using a roller system, comply with the equipment manufacturers directions and the following sequence: -Conforms to xun mecss 10/20/08 Figure 17. Stack 4"x 6" by 5' long timbers as shown to form safety timbers. Place safety timbers under home behind axle area and under hitch. 30 1. Establish staging area. Establish a staging area directly adjacent to onelor both sides of the foundation. i 2. Setup rollers. Set up the roller system according to the equipment manu lac- turer's directions. , 3. Fasten bump blocks. Temporarily fasten wooden bump blocks on the sill plates at the ends of the foundation to stop the home from rolling at the d - sired location. 4. Roll home. Roll the home into place over the foundation. 5. Remove bump blocks. Remove the blocks before installing the next section of a multi -section home. CRANES When using a crane, follow these guidelines: • Position the home section(s) and crane (taking the boom reach into consid- eration) such that they do not have to be repositioned during the set. • Use enough properly sized straps to maintain balance of the home and to prevent damage to the structure. • Place straps under walls or posts, including temporary posts used to support the opening. Do not position lifting straps under marriage wall openings. • Use a properly sized spreader bar to maintain a vertical lift, to avoid placing compression forces on the eaves and to reduce any tendency to slip. • Connect a rope to at least one point on the home so it can be controlled iwhile aloft. • Make provisions to retrieve the straps/cables after the home is set. If using a cradle system, notch the sill plate where the straps will fall. For a sling sys- tem, notch and reinforce the home's rim joist to keep the strap from slipping and allow the strap to be removed after the home is set. I • Always set the home section farthest from the crane first so that subsequent section(s) need not be lifted over previously set sections. I STEP 4. CONSTRUCT PIERS For the side of the home section that is up on jacks, place piers on footings or paIds fol- lowing the home manufacturer's blocking plan (or tags). If no plan was provided, use the support plan developed in Install Footings (p. 17). Start at one end of the home section and work toward the other noting the required pier material specifications' and procedure described below. Construct piers so as to provide a stable foundation for the home using materials' listed in the specifications box below and based on the location of the pier and its height as measured from the top of the footing or pad to the top of the cap. See Table 12 for pier construction requirements. j FWD Nfficss 10/20/08 // resigning piers. Incorrect size, location or spacing of piers may result in serious structural damage to the home. Install piers at all re- quired locations. Failure to do so may lead to sagging floors, walls, and roofs, and could void the home's war- ranty. Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. 31 Set the Home PFSs J a Z Z Z O Q J J F Z Z U) 111 2 O x tY O in Q S J Q a nfawo 1 HUD 41HCSS TABLE 11. PIER MATERIAL MINIMUM SPECIFICATIONS 10/20/08 Component !I Specification Concrete Block Nominal dimensions of at least 8" x 8' x 16"; minimum load 8,000 lbs; confirming to ASTM designation C90, grade N. Solid masonry (nominal 4" x 8" x 16" pre -cast concrete without reinforcement); pressure treated lumber Caps (nominal 2' x 8" x 16"); or steel (minimum 1/2'thick, corrosion protected by a min. of a 10 mil coating of an exterior paint or equivalent). Spacers Nominal 2'thick boards. Shims (also called Hardwood, minimum 4" width by minimum 6" length by maximum 1" thick (nominal); plasticmust be listed with maximum load capacity; used in pairs. ` Available in various sizes stamped with maximum load capacity and listed or labeled for the required verti- cal load capacity, and where required by design, for the appropriate horizontal load capacity. Metal or other manufactured piers must be provided with protection against weather deterioration and corrosion at least equivalent to that provided by a coating of zinc on steel of .30 oz per sq. It of surface coated. With a water borne preservative, in accordance with AWPA Standard U1'-04 for Use Category 4B ground contact applications. TABLE 12. PIER CONSTRUCTION Height Configuration Maximum offs top to botton Less than 36 in (except Single -stack blocks with long , corner piers more than 3 _" 8,000 lbs. Not required side perpendicular to I-beam blocks high) Between 36 in and 67 in 1" (W up to 36' and comer piers over 3 Double, interlocked blocks high) 16.000 lbs. Not required blocks high Over 67 in Designed by a registered engineer or registeredarchitect Single -stack blocks with long Yz" up to 36"high, - 54 in or less' side parallel to perimeter rail 1" over 36" high 8,000 lbs. Not required (rim joist) withlong Y" up to 36" high, Ipertack blockular - 54 in or less' sideSing to 8,000 lbs. Not required the 1" over 36" high marriage line ' Construct perimeter and marriage line piers over 54 inches according to the requirements for frame piers of the same height. 1. Prepare footing surface. Make sure the footing surface upon which the pier sits is flat and smooth. Before placing the pier on the footing, clean dirt, rocks, or other material off the surface of the footing. For cast -in -place concrete foot- ings, if the footing surface is uneven, create a level, flat surface by placing a ;,� \ P6 $ treated board on the footing and mortaring on the first block (or manufactured ,.• / pier base), or by placing the first block (or manufactured pier base) on a layer of premix dry sand mortar. • 2. Stack blocks. Stack concrete blocks with their hollow cells aligned vertically. When piers are constructed of blocks stacked side -by -side, orient each layer No. :0 ;G � o at right angles to the previous one (Figure 18) and plan blocks so that split caps will be perpendicular to the blocks they rest on and to the I-beam. .. V. LIV Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. 9/22/08 32 Man i-Ekt. Wood 6tiMs to FI Gaos W to V Oµbral&6 Spacer 4x8xl6 Cum C.y Or&&16P.T. Typba Ox&16 Concrete B Typba Foot, Main I-W. _tf Wood hs 0FI Gaps lb to T Opbmi Q) Wor (1) 2x12 S1 4x0x16 lbicmte C� T,ba8x&16 Concee BbJt b 3. Cap piers. Place a cap on hollow block piers to evenly distribute the str load. Use caps the same length and width as the piers they rest upon. V using split caps on double -stacked block piers, install the caps with the I dimension perpendicular to the joint in the blocks below and to the main beam. 4. Install shims. Use shims to level the home and fill any gaps between tf base of the I-beam and the top of the pier cap. Always use shims in pail (Figure 19). Drive them in tightly so they do not occupy more than one i vertical space. When the space to be shimmed is greater than one inch less than the minimum thickness of available caps or concrete blocks, u hardwood dimensional lumber (two inches maximum thickness) or 2" or thick concrete block. For split caps, install shims and dimensional lum- ber/blocks over each individual cap. 5. Setup level. Setup a water level with the fluid level at the desired f the main piers. Carefully lower the side of the section down onto the piers, adjusting the final height with shims. ruSIN AA WATER LEVEL IA water level is a standard device for leveling the home. The level consists of the following components: • One container (five gallon bucket or one gallon jug). • 150 feet of 112 inch diameter plastic tubing. 18. Frame pier con- PROF&::,a.:U.dAL at rA 1 v Curing time of mortar. Where wet mortar is used to construct or level piers, al- low it to cure to at least 80% of of strength capacity (usually requiring 96 hours) before setting the home. of 19. Correct shim "% I . Dimensions of masonry perimeter walls. If using a masonry perimeter enclosure, calculate pier heights so that the enclo- sure can be built using stan- dard unit dimensions (with- out cutting). l/. eve] the home. The home is adequately leveled if there is 33 Valve for terminal end of tubing. Liquid for system: colored water in warm climates, windshield washing fluid in cold climates. co-�ne. yr to use a water level Position level. Position the level such that it can reach all piers. Place container. Place the container so that the fluid in the con- tainer is at the same level as the desired level of the top of the supports under the home, allowing for any bracing below the level of the 1-beams. Uncoil tubing. Uncoil the tubing and fill with fluid, taking care no to introduce bubbles into the hose. Never allow anything to crimp or crush the tubing so as to impede the free flow of fluid. Bleed air. Hold the valve below the level of the water container; open the valve to bleed out any air and close the valve. Establish height. Locate the tubing adjacent to a pier that is set to the desired final height. Position the valve above the pier and open the valve. Move the water container up or down to where the water level is at the desired final height of the pier. Maintain the water container in that position and close the valve. Level piers. Move the tubing to the next pier. Hold the valve above the pier and open it. Set the pier height to the level of the water in the tubing and close the valve. Repeat this step until all HUD \mCSS 10120108 no more than 1/4 inch differ- ence between adjacent pier supports (frame or perime- ter) and the exterior doors and windows of the home do not bind and can be properly operated. Water level operation. To operate the water level properly, both ends of the system must be open to the atmosphere and there must be approximately the same amount of fluid in the tubing at all times (within a few inches). 6. Complete the opposite side. Jack the other side of the section up and install piers following the instructions above. At the completion of this step, the sec- tion should be level from front to rear and from side to side. 7. Install perimeter and marriage line piers. Install perimeter piers and for multi -section homes, marriage line piers. Position marriage line piers to pro- vide equal bearing for both mating sections. 6. Remove running gear. Remove and store, recycle or properly dispose of the hitch, axles, and wheels. These items are the property of the homeowner unless other contractual arrangements have been made. 9J —� Hun NrnCss ""010s Complete Multi -Section Set This chapter covers the preparation and installation of additional home sections, including the structural connections be- tween units, raising and fastening hinged roofs, and fastening the home to a load -bearing perimeter wall foundation. STEP 1. INSTALL MARRIAGE LINE ANCHORS (p. 35) STEP 2. REMOVE PROTECTIVE SHIPPING MATERIALS (p. 35) STEP 3. COMPLETE HINGED ROOF (p. 35) STEP 4. REPAIR OR INSTALL MARRIAGE LINE GASKET (p. 35) STEP 5. POSITION ADDITIONAL HOME SECTIONS (p. 36) STEP 6. CONNECT FLOORS (p. 37) jV STEP 7. CONNECT ROOF (p. 38) i STEP 6. CONNECT WALLS (p. 40) i 0 STEP 9. ATTACH TAG UNITS (p. 41) j STEP 10. REMOVE TEMPORARY ITEMS (p. 42) I STEP 11. FASTEN HOME TO FOUNDATION (p. 42) 0 STEP 12. BACKFILL AND GRADE (p, 42) STEP 13. BUILD STAIRS (p. 42) STEP 1. INSTALL MARRIAGE LINE ANCHORS If the home is in Wind Zone II or III, install ground anchors along the marriage line now; / , // before mating sections are joined see Install Stabilizing System (p. 60). After install- ing marriage line anchors return to this point in Complete Multi -Section Set. Position roof jacks. Posi- STEP 2. REMOVE PROTECTIVE SHIPPING MATERIALS lion jacks vertically to pre- ventthe jack foot from kick - Remove all shipping protection and associated fasteners from both home sections to ing out or sliding. be joined, including plastic used to close up the open sides during transportation. Do Caution during roof rais- not remove the temporary supports holding up the ceilings at major openings. ing. Do not enter the roof 'cavity during the raising STEP 3. COMPLETE HINGED ROOF procedure. If the home has a hinged roof that has been folded down for shipping, raise the roof us- Checklists for alternate ing a crane or roof jacks following the procedure below. Note: Due to the variety of construction. If the serial hinged roof designs Palm Harbor Homes. Inc. includes model specific instructions with number (see the data plate or the chassis front cross member) has the letters "AC' before or after it, then each home that includes a hinged roof design, including fastening and special installa- tion instructions. ALWAYS refer to the model specific instructions for connections: 1. Position lift points. Position the roof lift points (jacks or crane lift points) fol- lowing the jack manufacturer or crane operator instructions. Space roof lift the Alternate Construction points equally along the length of the roof with no more than five feet from the on -site check list supplied with the home must be end of the roof to the first or last lift points. Use three lift points for a roof up to completed and returned to 48 feet long (excluding overhangs), four lift points for up to 60 feet, and five lift the home manufacturer in a points for up to 72 feet. timely manner. If the AC 2. Remove fasteners. Remove any temporary fasteners connecting the hinged checklist relates to the roof, Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. 35 a portion of the roof to the vertical king posts. Iono/oa then failure to do so may 3. Lift roof. Raise the roof to its intended height. A temporary slight overexten- require future disassembly sion may be required during lifting. However, take care not to overextend the of the roof and further in - roof and damage the hinge. Raise the roof evenly in small increments, keep- spections. ing it level throughout the entire process to prevent racking. Do not allow roof- ing paper and shingles to get caught in the hinge crease. 4. Secure king posts. Position the hinged king posts (may be a knee wall) atop the fixed king posts or against the wooden stop. The king posts are either hinged to the underside of the hinged -truss top chord or shipped loose as a knee wall stored in the roof cavity. Position them as needed to level the roof, aligning each king post with the king post directly beneath it, and securing it in place, following the model specific instructions as applicable. 5. Unfold double hinge. If the roof has a double hinge top chord, unfold and secure the second hinge per the model specific instructions. 6. Fasten sheathing. Fasten sheathing from the upper portion of the roof to the lower fixed portion of the roof just below hinges per the model specific instruc- tions as applicable. r 7. Redistribute Insulation. Before closing up the attic space check that the in- sulation has not shifted. Re -level the insulation if needed. 8. Install gable walls. Assembled frames or wall studs and sheathing needed for the site assembly of the gable end walls and interior shear wall knee walls (if present) may be provided. Install the gable end walls for each home section per the model specific instructions. 9. Install vents. Extend plumbing vents, exhaust fans, appliance vents, and fire- place stacks through the hinged portion of the roof in strict accordance with this manual (Prepare Appliances and Equipment, p. 84) and/or supplemen- tal instructions provided by the home manufacturer. STEP 4. REPAIR OR INSTALL MARRIAGE LINE GASKET A continuous, non -porous gasket creating a permanent air barrier must be installed on , // at least one side of the marriage line; along the floor, end walls and ceiling (and mar- , riage lines for any tag units). The manufacturer has provided a marriage line gasket ei- Checking through -the -rim - ther installed on the home or shipped loose. If installed, inspect the gasket and repair ducts. Ensure that through - any gaps or tears. the -rim -duct connections If not installed at the factory, install a continuous gasket between the home sections are secure and tight after along the floor, end walls, and ceiling. the home sections are to- gether. STEP 5. POSITION ADDITIONAL HOME SECTIONS Follow this procedure to install additional home sections: 1. Remove obstructions. Remove protruding nails and staples or anything else @Mechanical that will keep the home sections from fitting together snugly. If present, cut the temporary ceiling and floor plates at the edges of marriage line openings tak- go- ing care not to damage ceiling or floor coverings or displace temporary mar- sitioning system. For a riage line support posts (these supports and the plates will be removed after pier -set home, a mechani- the home sections have been structurally connected). cal positioning system 2. Complete crossovers. Before moving the two sections together, complete (such as a roller system) any crossover connections that require access from the open marriage line, will make the process eas- including the attic duct connection (if present) and marriage wall interior elec- ier and safer and be less trical connections (see Connect Crossovers, p.48). likely to damage the home. 3. Position section. Position the section as closely as possible (ideally within six inches) and line up with the previously set section. If using a mechanical positioning system or crane, follow the system manufacturer's instructions or PF the crane operator's directions. 4. Construct piers. With the outside walls of the home aligned, construct the Sealing gaps. Prior to com- piers for the home section according to the instructions in Set the Home (p. pletion of the exterior close- 29) before continuing to the steps below. up, gaps that do not exceed Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. 36 5. Level section. Lower the section onto the outside piers first, inside piers last. Before releasing the mechanical positioning system, check interior doorways and other openings for misalignments that may cause problems during trim - out. The floors should be flush, level, and tight and the roof section should' have little, if any, gap at the top of the marriage line. Use at least two come -a - longs to pull the sections snugly together and use the water level or other lev- eling device to set all piers and shims. I 6. Shim gaps. Shim any gaps up to one inch between structural elements with dimensional lumber. If any gaps exceed one inch, re -position the home toy eliminate such gaps. STEP 6. CONNECT FLOORS Make floor structural connections according to one of the methods described below. I Method 1; Install toed fasteners through bottom board or floor decking Install fasteners at approximately a 45 degree angle (+/- 5 degrees) from horizontal as shown in Figure 20 using the fastener type, size, and spacing indicated on Table ,13. I TABLE 13. FLOOR CONNECTION FASTENING SPECIFICATIONS Lag screw with washer 5/16" x 4-1/2"' 36 in. 20 in. 16 Wood screw #10 x 4 32 in. 16 in. 16 ` Increase fastener lengths by 3 inches for double rim joists Stagger fasteners on either side of marriage line and offset them by half the spaoing distance (Figure 21). i Fastener Lontion Marnag� I Spacing From Table Spacing From Table Had Half Spacing Spacing From Table Spacing From Table inch are permitted be- n structural elements ided that the gaps are ad before completion of a -up, the home sec - are in contact with t other, and the mar- . gasket provides a er seal. PFS#05 Conforms to HUD MHCSS 10/20/08 20. Floor connection bottom board or floor I Figure 21. Staggered offset fastening along marriage line 0 37 • n Wind Zones II and III, fasten metal straps of minimum 26 gauge, 1-1/2" wide galvanized steel spaced per Table 14 and fastened per Table 15 to the un- derside of the floor joists (Figure 22). Select a strap length sufficient to hold the required fasteners. Straps are not required in Wind Zone I. STRAP SPACING Up to 4-in-12 96 in. 60 in. Over 4-in-12 48 in. 4 t in. _. MINIMUM SPECIFICATIONS Galvanized staples 16ga 7/16" x 1" penetration 12 each side Roofing nails 1-1/2' long 9 each side STEP 7. CONNECT ROOF If the marriage line along the roof is not snug, position jacks every 20 feet or less along the outside I-beam and uniformly lift the section until the roof area is tight. Check to make sure the ceiling joint is flush before installing the connections. If not, use a jack and tee to raise whichever ceiling is low, starting at the front and working to the rear of the home. Fasten the roof along the marriage line using one of the methods below for either double or triple -section homes. DOUBLE -SECTION HOMES Method 1: Install toed fasteners through roof sheathing Install the fasteners through the roof deck into the ridge beams at an approximately 45 degree angle (+/- 5 degrees) from horizontal (Figure 23) according to the fastener spacing and specifications in Table 16. Stagger fasteners on each side of marriage line and offset them by half the spacing distance (Figure 21). Spacing indicated is on - center, both sides of ridge. Make sure fasteners penetrate the ridge beam/rail by a minimum of 1-1/2 inches both sides of ridge. i Roof Sheathing Ridge Beam TABLE 16. ROOF CONNECTIONS SPECIFICATIONS HUD n1HCSS MUM @Patch bottom board. Use adhesive spray, mastic, and/or diver- gent staples in combination with bottom board tape for a more secure and durable connection. Figure 22. Metal strapping for Wind Zones 11 and 11/ OF Closing the roof gap. Level and fasten the marriage line joint at the floor before jacking to tighten a roof gap. DO NOT use roof fas- teners to close any gaps. Separation of the ridge beams and trusses may occur. Figure 23. Toed fasteners through roof sheathing KE Y v Tr with 5/16" x 6" 28 in. 20 in. 12 in. washer Wood screw #10 x 5" 24 in. 12 in. 12 in. In Wind Zones II and III install either a metal rap or straps as follows Caps is Select metal caps made of minimum 8" x 30 ga galvanized steel or 0.019" aluminum. • Install caps continuously, overlapping by minimum of four inches at splices. • Fasten caps with 1" x 1" x 16 ga galvanized staples or. 12 ga 1-1/4" long x 3/8" diameter head roof nails or #8 x 1-1/4" sheet metal screws at two inches O.C. both sides of ridge. I Center Section Outer Section 1 Factory-hstailed \ Undedaymet Factory -Installed Shingles Field -Installed \ Factory Factors -IreWled Shingles Asphal�Underll Roofing Cement) Between Layers of Underla ment Minh"Wife cochonall TABLE 17. ROOF CONNECTION Lag screw 5/16" x 6" 14in. Wood screw #10 x.5" 12in. 101n. Conforms to HUD MHCSS 10/20/08 1 stalling lags. If lags are used to connect roofs, use appropriately sized wash- ers, countersink the fas- tener heads and fill the countersink holes with putty or caulk to prevent shingles from sinking into the holes over time. Jhen to use metal straps. If a ridge vent will be in- stalled, use straps instead of a continuous cap. igure 24.Triple-section roof onnection Method 1 Figure 25.Triple-section home 39 Method 2: Install fasteners with ship loose sheathing For homes where sheathing is shipped loose to be installed on site (Figure 26) fasten field -installed sheathing to all underlying blocking and framing with 15 ga 7/16" x 1-1/2" staples at four inches o.c. in field and perimeter. Facbry-laebled SNnges Feldansaled Feld-Inseletl sraryes uwd yrml FeU-Instated SM1eaNig AVhae Roofing Cement Be en Layemof Underla m l Mn.6 Wae. FnIory-Insured Feoled SNes ng Untlerenderlayrrenl _� Fw1ory4nstaletl Shea ir, Facbry�lnstaled Noer STEP 8. CONNECT WALLS Once the home is secured along the marriage line floor and roof, secure end walls, in- terior doorways, and marriage line partitions according to the appropriate method de- scribed below. END WALLS Method 1: Install toed fasteners through sheathing Toe fasteners through sheathing from the exterior at an approximately 45 degree angle (+/- 5 degrees) (Figure 27) according to the fastener specifications and spacing re- quirements in Table 18. c . Wall Exterior or E Underls Lag screw with washer 5/16" x 5" 12in. o.c. Wood screw #8 x 3" 8in. o.c. Nail 16d 8in. o.c. TABLE 19. MARRIAGE WALL CONNECTION SPECIFICATIONS Wood screw #8 x 4" 16 in. o.c. 10/20/08 Figure 26.Triple-section roof connection Method 2 Figure 27. End waticonnec- tion toed through sheathing 40 STEP 9. ATTACH TAG UNITS After the main unit has been set on its foundation, install all tag units according t( following procedure: 1. Position and block the tag. Position the tag unit as close to the main t possible at its intended location. Use a hitch jack to obtain approximate ing and install pier supports according to Set the Home, STEP 2. POSI HOME SECTION (p. 29). Determine whether the tag and main unit floo designed to line up flush or are offset by a step and adjust the tag pier t accordingly. 2. Level the unit. Using a water level (p.33), verify that the piers are level elevation of all points along the lower flange of the I-beam should be nc than 3/8 inches from the desired height and should not deviate more the inches overall. 3. Connect floors. If the floor of the tag unit is level with main unit floor, c the floors together as described in STEP 5. CONNECT FLOORS (p. 36 the floors are offset, use the connection detail shown in Figure 28, fasti the angle iron to the tag unit with minimum 5/16" x 3" lag screws or #8 r wood screws. Match fastener spacing and quantity to that used for the nection of the angle iron to the main unit. 4. Connect walls. Secure the tag unit walls to the main unit sidewall usini 4" screws at 12 inches o.c. (see Figure 29). The sheathing shown in thl may not be included by the manufacturer. If included, the sheathing ove last stud bay was tacked in place at the factory for easy removal at the Once the wall connections are complete, re -install the sheathing and cc the siding installation. sid—all: (Main Main Unit Floor Main Tag Unit Floor JAI � Angle Iron Tag W the Tit as evel- 'ION s are sights The more n 3/4 nnect . If ning 3" cn- #8 x detail the 5. Connect roofs. Connect the tag unit roof to the main unit roof using #10 x 5" screws or 3/8" x 6" lag screws, toe screwed at each main unit verticalstruc- tural member (stud or truss) location. See Figure 30 for flush roof connection and Figure 31 for roof connections with an offset greater than two inches. Roof connections with an offset less than two inches do not require screws. AWN#Oa5 Conforms to HUD hrDCSS 10/20/08 � A tiers under tag units. Some tag units have spe- cial piering needs due to the roof and/or floor con- struction. These will be de- tailed in supplemental pier- ing plans supplied with the home. Note that tag unit end walls are typically load bearing rather than side walls. 28. Tag unit offset Figure 29. Tag unit wall nc. 41 rum. mml Fbshhg Pal 10n0/08 Figure 30. Tag unit Flush roof connection reehm:� R ff f r{�--- I Figure 31. Tag unit offset Rml�dig J l� roof connection Maa Ul _ TagW Man Ul MCIeI FSSNg om Tm Corse Rmt OaMYg ("19U,91 Tab W F.s We ........................ •(:F'(T:f.:::.� Imo...:::. �.: v:L{cJ: v::: A..... _ �`—_'i:i':>kb':':}' �'i:Cd': i:i:i:i::iieYaf���i:;: ... \_Y-•r ,:y:'ral;':' ERIC STEP 10. REMOVE TEMPORARY ITEMS Once the home is properly supported and the marriage line connections are completed, remove the temporary ridge beam supports and wall/ceiling plates used to brace the ridge beam during shipment. Take care not to damage the ceiling. Remove and store or properly dispose of or recycle the hitch, axles, and wheels. These items are the property of the homeowner unless other contractual arrangements have been made. STEP 11. FASTEN HOME TO FOUNDATION Fasten the home to the foundation (typically to the sill plate) according to the fastening schedule provided by the manufacturer. STEP 12. BACKFILL AND GRADE Backfill against the foundation wall to the height of the waterproofing, taking care to not damage the drainage system. Grade the site as described in Prepare the Site, STEP 3. CLEAR AND GRADE THE SITE (p.13). STEP 13. BUILD STAIRS Construct the basement stairs in compliance with the local building code. Take care that adequate headroom is maintained under beams and that there is sufficient landing space at the bottom of the stairs. i t I� When to backfill. Backfill against basement walls only after the home is con- nected to the foundation or the basement walls may deflect inward or collapse. Cutting the chassis. Do not cut, notch, bend, or alter in any manner beams, cross - members, and other parts of the steel chassis. 42 I ti Complete Roof and This chapter covers closing up and weatherproofing the STEP 1. COMPLETE ROOF (p. 43) STEP 2. COMPLETE TAG UNIT ROOF (p. 45) STEP 3. COMPLETE SIDE WALLS (p. 45) STEP 1. COMPLETE ROOF 1ono/as 1 Exterior Wal home by completing the roofing and RIDGE CLOSEUP For multi -section homes, the first step in completing the exterior is sealing the roof along the ridge line (Figure 32). For homes with asphalt shingles, follow the procel below. For homes with metal or other roofing materials, follow the instructions that come with the roofing materials or provided as a supplement to this manual. I '- cap Shingle urde,laymet _ metA(WMzoe 2 & 3 Only) Fecbry IrelaM Shingles Facbry IrebAed Shingle., Undedaymanl — RmiDe 1. Install underlayment (when sheathing at the ridge is installed on site). Make sure the roof sheathing is already installed (see Complete Multi -Section Set, STEP 6. CONNECT ROOF, p. 37). Install 15# felt or equivalent continuously along the length of the ridge, covering all exposed sheathing and overlapping sheathing joints by at least five inches on each side. Fasten using 1" x 1" x 16 ga galvanized staples. For Wind Zones II and III, also apply a six inch wide strip of roofing cement along each side of ridge under the underlayment; 2. Install shingles. If shingles have been left off at the ridge line for site installa- tion, install them now using 1" x 1" x 16 ga galvanized staples or 12ga 1i 1/4" long, 3/8" diameter head roof nails. For Wind Zone I, fasten at 518 inch above each tab cutout slot and one at each end of the shingle one inch in from the edge (four fasteners for a three -tab shingle) (Figure 33). For Wind Zones II and III, use two fasteners 5/8 inch above and on either side of the tab slots and one at each end of the shingle one inch in from the edge (six fasteners for a three -tab shingle). Do not fasten through the shingle tar line. 36'Shigla l WSl,ig% X % 1IrX .X X. .X X. X 12 _I Il X FeSener Laa4ons 3. Install underlayment. Install 15# felt or equivalent underlayment that is at least 10 inches wide continuously along the ridge. Fasten with 1" x 1" x 16 ga galvanized staples. For Wind Zones II and III, also apply a six inch Wide i strip ire 32. Shingle installs - at ridge /, Ieatherproo£ng. It is vitally important to close up the home quickly to protect the interior from damage due to inclement weather. removing shipping protec- tion. Remove shipping pro- tection from the roof prior to completing roofing. 1/1 ,e 33.Shingle fastener ons for Wind Zone I and Wind Zones ll and nc. 43 0 is to of roofing cement on both sides of the ridge under the underlayment. 4. Install shingle cap. Starting at the opposite end of the home from the prevail- ing wind, install ridge cap shingles provided by the manufacturer or use 12" x 12" shingles (36" shingles cut into three equal pieces) (Figure 34). Install us- ing 1" x 1" x 16 ga galvanized staples or 12 ga 1-1/4" long, 3/8" diameter head roofing nails spaced 5-5/8 inches from bottom edge and 1/2 inch to 1-1/2 inches in from both edges. Cover the exposed fasteners with tar or cement. Cut shingle Into three pieces as shown by dosed line 1 1 112�3 HINGE ROOF CLOSE-UP For homes with hinged roofs, complete roofing underlayment and shingles along the hinge line (Figure 35) as follows: 1. Install underlayment. Attach the underlayment to the roof deck with a mini- mum of six-inch wide strip of cement. If necessary, trim the underlayment to allow the lowest shingle above the hinge of the roof to seal to the topmost shingle on the lower portion of the roof. Site Install Shingles In Hinged Area Per The Instructions On The Shingle Package Shipped Loose With The Hama. After Roof Is In The Rased Position, Jet P Trim The Shingle Undedayment To Aloes The Shingle Of The Upper Roof Section To Seal Onto The fast SMngle Of The Lower Roof S/id \—Hnge do �teP �atP Underbyment Asphalt Roofing Carrara Between Layers of Underlayment Mirlumum 6' Wide 2. Install shingles. Install missing shingles according to the shingle manufac- turer's instructions. COMPLETE TRIPLE -SECTION ROOFS Complete roofing along triple -section home marriage lines according to one of the fol- lowing methods based on the construction of the home. Method 1: Dual ridge beams 1. Install underlayment. Fold down the underlayment of the outer section roof and apply a minimum six-inch wide strip of roofing cement to the sheathing. Lay the underlayment of the center section on top of the cement (see Best Practice tip for optional metal flashing). Fold down the center section roof un- derlayment on this cement. 2. Install shingles. Install missing row(s) of shingles, securing them per the shingle manufacturer's installation instructions (refer to the shingle wrapper). Installing a ridge vent. If a ridge vent is to be installed, follow the ridge vent manu- facturer's instructions pro- vided with the material or as an addendum to this manual in lieu of underlay- ment over ridge line and shingle cap. Figure 34. Shingle cut into thirds Figure 35. Shingle installa- tion at hinge line @Installing metal flashing. Install optional metal flashing over the roof decking before applying roofing cement. Fold back the underlayment and fas- ten 30 ga x 6" wide mini- mum galvanized metal with roofing nails or 16 ga x 1" crown staples of sufficient length to penetrate the roof sheathing. Space fasteners four inches o.c. or less near the edge of the metal. Overlap the metal by at least two inches at joints. Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. 44 a Center Sedm Outer s.am Fldd-InsW �SWMI. Method 2: Field -installed sheathing 1. Install underlayment. Fold down the underlayment of the outer sect and fold up the underlayment on the center section roof. Apply to the roof underlayment a minimum six-inch wide strip of roofing cement c' on the sheathing joint. Cover with the shipped loose underlayment. P other minimum six-inch wide strip of roofing cement to the ship loose layment centered on the upper roof sheathing joint. 2. Install shingles. Install missing row(s) of shingles per the shingle ml turer's installation instructions (refer to the shingle wrapper). STEP 2. COMPLETE TAG UNIT ROOF If the home has a tag unit, complete roofing for this unit now. The process for ing the roof is different for flush and offset roofs. Follow the instructions in the ate section below. FLUSH ROOFS For flush roofs, complete roofing along the marriage line and at the valley line al fol- lows (see Figure 38): 1 re 36. Triple -section connection Method 1 ire 37. Triple -section connection Method 2 45 HUD MHCSS SW'6umahymw 10/20/08 ImUI Fhshhg Pot Ova JOM F.t.. Tag tm III I Man l t Marriage line Method 1: Install metal flashing (minimum 30 ga x minimum 6" wide) over the joint between the main roof dormer and tag unit roof. Secure the flashing to the roof decks on both dormer and tag unit roofs with roofing nails or 16 ga staples with a one inch crown and long enough to fully penetrate the roof decks. Space fasteners maximum two inches o.c. near the edge of the flashing. Overlap seams in the metal by at least two inches. After flashing is complete, install shingles per shingle manufacturer instructions and ridge cap/vent according to STEP 1. COMPLETE ROOF (p. 43). Method 2: Install two layers of roofing underlayment or equivalent over the joint between the main roof dormer and tag unit roof lapping the factory installed under- layment a minimum of six inches on each side and fully cemented at the laps. In- stall shingles per shingle manufacturer instructions and ridge caplvent according to STEP 1. COMPLETE ROOF (p. 43). Valley line Along the bottom of the valley, shingles and one or more layers of roll roofing may need to be installed. If fastened to the roof at the factory, unroll the roofing, overlap the tag roof and trim the roofing to the roof edge. If shipped loose, install the roll roofing at the valley, lapping it under the factory installed roll roofing a minimum of 12 inches and fully cement the roofing at the lap. Complete shingles at the valley either by interweav- ing them or by trimming back approximately four inches from the valley line and fully cementing the exposed shingle edges. OFFSET ROOFS If there is a gap between the main unit dormer overhang and the tag unit roof of less than two inches, fold up the main unit dormer fascia, slide the underlayment and flash- ing from the tag unit roof behind the fascia, and bend the fascia back down and secure into sub -fascia with metal screws (Figure 39). Figure 38. Tag unit flush roof connection Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. S 10/20/08 Main Uiit pvof Net 'I \, mwonF.doryJntalled Flashing UatbrQ") ptlp yg EaeU Up Into mr SebFsseia F Fascia MnUna Facti lr�� Flaslun sag used wui muY — Urdarlaymail W er Rtlled Vary (Min. }'ro Max of 2j Roofing CarriedUPM OGInBr SlbFaaela M ill. S Tog Uni[ Tmss Main Uit Dormer Trus If the gap between the main unit dormer overhang and the tag unit roof is two inches or more, bend up the inside corner trim at the dormer overhang and main unit sidewall, fold up the factory installed flashing on the tag unit roof, fold the inside corner trim back down, and secure into dormer wall with metal screws (Figure 41). Shingles j ire 39. Tag unit roofing nection with less than inch height difference 40. Tag unit offset Mein Unit Shingles V Metal Flashing I (Or TopCwrs Rod Oeckmg Of wryl9Sng) Tag VNt I I Fastener I O STEP 3. COMPLETE SIDE WALLS Siding necessary to complete the exterior has been provided with the home. Follow the siding manufacturer's instructions (found on or with the packaging or as an addendum I to this manual) and to complete the exterior siding as follows: I Covering the HUD label. Do 1. Remove shipping protection. Remove temporary shipping protection from y not cover the HUD label on walls. ] the exterior of the home. 2. Complete crossovers. Complete any crossover connections in the walls, in- Removing shipping protec- cluding: electrical, stereo speaker, doorbell, telephone, and intercom wires. I tion. Remove temporary 3. Install siding. Fasten siding only at stud locations, avoiding electrical ;wires shipping protection from that are present in the walls. I walls before installing sid- 4. Install close-up of strips. If siding has been installed on the end wall at the da serious moisture factory, fasten close-up strips securely along both edges and seal the!edges damaa ge may result. with a waterproof sealant. y 5. Install trim. Install any matching trim required to complete the installation. 6. Seal penetrations. With a waterproof sealant, seal any penetrations in the siding that may have been caused by temporary shipping protection. I Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. 47 'I I � I Connect Crossovers HUD NUICSS 10/20/08 This chapter covers crossover connections between units of multi -section homes, including ducts and electrical, water, 0 waste, gas, telephone, and cable TV connections. STEP 1. CONNECT DUCTS (p. 48) STEP 2. CONNECT ELECTRICAL CROSSOVERS (p. 50) STEP 3. INSTALL ELECTRICAL BONDING (p. 53) STEP 4. CONNECT WATER LINES (p. 53) STEP 5. CONNECT DRAIN, WASTE, AND VENT LINES (p. 54) STEP 6. CONNECT GAS LINES (p. 56) STEP 7. CONNECT TELEPHONE AND CABLE TV WIRING (p. 57) STEP 1. CONNECT DUCTS There are three main types of duct crossover connections. Based on the location of the duct, follow the installation steps on the page indicated below: • Under the floor (p. 48). • In the roof cavity (p. 50). • In floor, through -the -rim joist (p. 50) To prevent air leakage, seal all ductwork connections, including duct collars using one or more of the following materials: • Galvanized metal straps in combination with galvanized sheet metal screws. • For rigid air ducts and connectors, tape and mastics listed to UL 181A. • For flexible air ducts and connectors, tape and mastics listed to UL 181 B. UNDER FLOOR FLEXIBLE CROSSOVER DUCT When heating or cooling equipment is installed in the home, the flexible crossover duct is provided by the manufacturer. In all cases the crossover duct must be listed for exte- rior use. There are four common configurations of under floor crossover ducts depending on the number of home sections and the fumace/air handler location. See Table 20 to locate the appropriate figure. TABLE 20. UNDER FLOOR DUCT CONFIGURATIONS Furnace over trunk duct See Figure 41 See Figure 43 Furnace offset from trunk duct See Figure 42 See Figure 44 &IrA� Qualified personnel. Use only qualified personnel to make crossover connec- tions. Consult the LAHJ for licensing or any additional crossover connection re- quirements. Access for service. When- ever possible maintain ac- cess to connection areas for future maintenance. Make tight connections. Permanent, durable, and tight crossover duct con- nections are critical to the proper performance of the home. Leaky ducts can re- sult in severe moisture problems in the home, dis- comfort from rooms not re- ceiving the proper amount of conditioned air, and high utility bills from wasted heating and/or cooling en- ergy. M Furnace / Air ASectim Harder BSectim Flom Heat Dud Tap -Out Colar Flea Dud Field -Installed Flex SupportStraps Furnace /Air A Section Hancler B Section Floes Heat D Tap -Out Cdlar Field -Installed Flex Dud Flex Duct Suppo V-Box Under Furnace Fumace/Aa ASectim l l i Ho_dler Bseam Ili csecum Heat FeWnstaEed FexDud Furnace A section Furnace/AV BSectm CSeclim III Handler i I I I 101 aDu -Out Tpal Collar Field -Installed Flex Dud Nr-BcxUrder Furnace For under floor flexible crossover ducts follow the steps below: 1. Locate collars. Locate the metal crossover collars (or V-box) connected to the main trunk duct (or furnace) under the home and remove temporary ship- ping protection. 2. Install inner duct. Slide the crossover duct inner liner over the crosso IarN-box as far as it will go. Temporarily fasten the inner liner in place duct tape. Install a large nylon zip -tie over the inner liner just above the around the crossover collarN-box. Apply mastic completely over inner and collarN-box (alternately, the mastic may be applied to the collarN prior to sliding the duct inner liner over it). 3. Connect duct insulation. Bring the duct insulation up over the zip -tie above the home's bottom board into the floor cavity. Temporarily duct I against the base of the trunk duct/V-box. 4. Pull duct wrap. Pull the crossover duct outer wrap over the top of the! tion and temporarily secure it to the trunk duct/V-box with duct tape. 5. Install zip -tie. Feel for the nylon zip -tie that was installed over the inne Place another nylon zip -tie just under the first one to permanently secu crossover duct insulation and outer wrap. 6. Trim duct. Trim the crossover duct to length such that the installed dui be straight with no kinks or unnecessary bends. 7. Connect other end. Follow the same procedure (steps 1 through 5) tc nett the opposite end of the crossover duct and any other crossover di 8. Seal joints. Seal the joints between the bottom board and the crossov with foam or mastic. 9. Support duct. Support the crossover duct(s) above the ground using, t galvanized metal straps and saddles spaced every 48 inches o.c. or le col - "ridge" liner -e the t will con- cts. err duct ylon or e 41. Furnace over duct, two home sec - re 42. Furnace offset trunk duct, two home e 43. Furnace over duct, three home sec- -a 44. Furnace offset iuct, three home i' Securing the crossover. Between Step 5 and Step 6, drill three or more 1116 inch holes an equal distance around and just below the bottom edge of the nylon zip-fle. Install #12 pan head screws in these holes, through the flexible duct and into the metal crossover collarN- box. The screw heads should be against the zip - tie. Vill'! /, Cover exposed metal. Completely cover all ex- posed metal connectors with insulation. Apply seal- ants and tapes only to sur- faces that are dry and free of dust, dirt, and grease. 49 a Is to 10/20/08 Choose straps at least 1/2 inch wider than the spacing of the metal spirals en- casing the crossover duct. Install the straps so they cannot slip between spi- rals. Secure metal straps with galvanized screws. ROOF CAVITY CROSSOVER DUCT For ducts installed in the roof cavity, follow the steps below: 1. Access duct. Access the crossover location through an access panel in the roof and remove any temporary shipping protection. 2. Join ducts. Using the provided flexible duct, join the distribution boxes in each section of the home as shown in Figure 45, cutting off any extra duct length to keep the duct as straight as possible. The duct is connected to one side of the home. 3. Fasten ducts. At each connection point between ducts and between ducts and distribution boxes or connectors, secure the inner duct liner with a nylon strap, apply mastic completely over the connection area, pull the duct insula- tion and outer liner over the connection area, and secure them with a second nylon strap. 4. Reinstall panel. Reinstall and secure the access panel. Install underlayment and shigles as necessary. STEP 2. CONNECT ELECTRICAL CROSSOVERS Multi -section homes may have one or more electrical crossovers located in the wall(s) and/or floor(s) along the marriage line(s). JOINING WIRES Two types of connections may be present at these locations —snap connectors and junction boxes. Identify matching circuits if multiple circuits exist at a single crossover location. These will be coded for identification. Connect snap connectors according to the connector manufacturers installation instructions, including fastener requirements. Connect wires in junction boxes as follows (Figure 46): Pull wires. Pull circuit wires into the junction box, sliding them through a romex con- nector and secure snugly. (Figure 46) Do not over -tighten. 1. Strip wires. Remove the outer jacket that holds the circuit wires together pro- viding a minimum of four inches of free wire in the box. 2. Connect wires. Connect wires together matching like colors, using appropri- ately sized wire nuts. Use the ground wire to ground the junction box and/or cover plate(s), if metal. Junction boxes may contain single or multiple 15 or 20-amp circuits, or a single 240-volt appliance circuit. 3. Replace cover. Reposition the junction box cover and secure using machine (not sheet metal) screws. Avoid ground contact. In- stalled crossover ducts must not be in contact with the ground. Unobstructed airflow. Ex- cess length, kinks and bends in the crossover duct will restrict airflow and de- grade the home's HVAC system performance. Figure 45. Duct crossover located in the roof cavity I Use qualified electricians. All electrical work must be performed by a qualified electrician and comply with the 2005 NEC. Disconnect power. Turn off power to the home before making connections. Proper use of GFCI cir- cuits. Ensure Ground Fault Circuit Interrupted (GFCI) circuits are connected to the proper GFCI protected circuits from the power supply. Figure 46. Types ofjunction box wiring connections Palm Harbor Homes, Inc. 50