Loading...
The URL can be used to link to this page
Your browser does not support the video tag.
Home
My WebLink
About
FLEETWOOD HOME INSTALLATION MANUAL
#02 CHANGES TO THE MANUAL SINCE THE LAST PUBLICATION Table of Contents PF� The table below lists the locations in the manual where text, data, or figures were altered or amended from the previous publication - — - - f - Change -- -- — - - —— ...................... .............................�.-._...,.. .._»_...�. -- = -- - -- Page Chapter Step Change Reason or Conforms to — — —------- — DMHCSS IMPORTANTNOTICES............................................................................................................................. 3 Step 1 Clarified requirements for 6/ta/t� 20 Install Footings multiple windows both sides of Clarification. SAFETY..................................................................................................................................................... 3 Determine Locations each window opening. RESOURCES............................................................................................................................................ 3 Table 31 75 Install StabilizingAdded required protection of Not addressed previously. FEDERAL PREEMPTION..........................................................................................................................4 Systems anchors .30 oz/sf galvanized DEFINITIONS PrepareAppliances ENGINEER'S STAMP................................................................................................................................ 5 S9 and Equipment Install Evaporative Coolers Added Not addressed previously. SYMBOLS USED IN THE MANUAL......................................................................................................... 6 Note5, to state that the T&P ABBREVIATIONS...................................................................................................................................... 6 discharge drain be directed ALTERNATIVE FOUNDATION SYSTEMS............................................................................................... 6 ownward and if home is placed DISPLAY AND STORAGE OF THE HOME 6 n a basement or enclosed 84 Connect Utilities 2 raw[ space a drain pipe GETTING STARTED.................................................................................................9 onnectin the discharge from Clarification Connect Water Service g g STEP 1. LOCATE THE DATA PLATE...................................................................................................... 9 he water heater temperature and pressure relief valve "may" STEP 2. CONFIRM WIND ZONE............................................................................................................... 9 e installed to the outside or to a STEP 3. CONFIRM THERMAL ZONE.......................................................................................................10 ump. STEP 4. CONFIRM ROOF -LOAD ZONE...................................................................................................11 Dryer vent, range/cook top ex aust, "water heater tempera STEP 5. CHECK LOCAL CODES AND SECURE PERMITS....................................................................13 Complete Installation Under the Home ure and pressure dischargeClarification of T&P discharge PREPARE THE SITE .... 14 > =' 103 rain is unobstructed, wate drain and drip pan drain re - Checklist STEP 1. PLAN SITE ACCESS .... .................. . _ eater drip pan drain and A quirements. 14 `= ondensate drain installed t STEP 2. DETERMINE HOME LOCATION AND LAYOUT........................................................................14 perimeter of crawl space." STEP 3. CLEAR AND GRADE THE SITE.................................................................................................15 STEP 4. DETERMINE SOIL CONDITION.................................................................................................15 STEP 5. DETERMINE SOIL -BEARING CAPACITY AND FROST LINE...................................................16 STEP 6. DETERMINE GROUND ANCHOR HOLDING CAPACITY..........................................................17 • • INSTALL FOOTINGS................................................................................................19 STEP 1. DESIGN POINT LOAD SUPPORTS...........................................................................................19 STEP 2. DESIGN FRAME SUPPORTS (Homes without Perimeter Blocking) ...................................... 21 STEP 3. DESIGN FRAME AND PERIMETER SUPPORTS (Homes with Perimeter Blocking) ............. 23 STEP 4. SELECT FOOTING MATERIALS................................................................................................ 25 STEP5. SIZE FOOTINGS......................................................................................................................... 25 STEP 6. INSTALL FOOTINGS..................................................................................................................29 CONSTRUCT FOUNDATIONS.................................................................................33 STEP 1. OBTAIN A FOUNDATION DESIGN............................................................................................33 STEP2. EXCAVATE................................................................................................................................. 33 STEP 3. CONSTRUCT THE FOOTING OR SLAB.................................................................................... 33 STEP 4. CONSTRUCT THE PERIMETER WALL..................................................................................... 33 Z STEP 5. INSTALL INTERIOR SUPPORTS............................................................................................... 34 0 STEP 6. WATERPROOF FOUNDATION WALL....................................................................................... 34 H STEP7. BACKFILL AND GRADE............................................................................................................ 34 J SET THE HOLE .................... Cl) STEP 1. PREPARE FOR SET................................................................................................................... 35 z -- STEP 2. POSITION HOME SECTION....................................................................................................... 35 STEP3. LIFT HOME.................................................................................................................................. 35 STEP4. CONSTRUCT PIERS................................................................................................................... 37 COMPLETE MULTI -SECTION SET..........................................................................41 STEP 1. INSTALL MARRIAGE LINE ANCHORS.....................................................................................41 106 6.01,2017 • �� 5/25/2017 10:19 AM STEP 2. REMOVE PROTECTIVE SHIPPING MATERIALS...................................................................... 41 STEP 3. COMPLETE HINGED ROOF....................................................................................................... 41 i STEP 4. REPAIR OR INSTALL MARRIAGE LINE GASKET................................................................... 44 j STEP 5. POSITION ADDITIONAL HOME SECTIONS............................................................................. 45 STEP6. CONNECT FLOORS................................................................................................................... 46 , STEP7. CONNECT ROOF........................................................................................................................ 47 STEP8. CONNECT WALLS...................................................................................................................... 50 STEP9. ATTACH TAG UNITS.................................................................................................................. 52 STEP 10. REMOVE TEMPORARY ITEMS................................................................................................ 53 STEP 11. FASTEN HOME TO FOUNDATION.......................................................................................... 53 STEP12. BACKFILL AND GRADE.......................................................................................................... 53 STEP13. BUILD STAIRS.......................................................................................................................... 53 COMPLETE ROOF AND EXTERIOR WALLS..........................................................54 STEP1. COMPLETE ROOF...................................................................................................................... 54 STEP 2. COMPLETE TAG UNIT ROOF.................................................................................................... 56 STEP 3. COMPLETE SIDE WALLS.......................................................................................................... 58 CONNECT CROSSOVERS............:.......................................................................... 59 STEP1. CONNECT DUCTS...................................................................................................................... 59 STEP 2. CONNECT ELECTRICAL CROSSOVERS................................................................................. 61 STEP 3. INSTALL ELECTRICAL BONDING............................................................................................ 62 STEP4. CONNECT WATER LINES.......................................................................................................... 63 STEP S. CONNECT DRAIN, WASTE, AND VENT LINES........................................................................ 63 STEP6. CONNECT GAS LINES............................................................................................................... 65 STEP 7. CONNECT TELEPHONE AND CABLE TV WIRING.................................................................. 65 COMPLETE THE INTERIOR....................................................................................66 i STEP 1. ALIGN MARRIAGE WALLS........................................................................................................ 66 STEP2. FINISH GYPSUM BOARD........................................................................................................... 66 • STEP 3. COMPLETE WALL AND CEILING FINISHES............................................................................ 66 STEP4. COMPLETE CARPET................................................................................................................. 67 STEP5. COMPLETE TRIM....................................................................................................................... 67 I STEP 6. INSTALL SHIP LOOSE ITEMS................................................................................................... 67 INSTALL STABILIZING SYSTEM STEP 1. DETERMINE ANCHOR LOCATIONS......................................................................................... 68 STEP 2. DETERMINE TIE -DOWN CONFIGURATION.............................................................................. 74 STEP3. SELECT ANCHORS.................................................................................................................... 74 STEP4. INSTALL ANCHORS................................................................................................................... 75 STEP 5. INSTALL STRAPS STEP 6. TIGHTEN AND ADJUST STRAPS.............................................................................................. 79 CONNECTUTILITIES...............................................................................................80 STEP 1. CONNECT ELECTRICAL SERVICE........................................................................................... 80 STEP 2. CONNECT WATER SERVICE.................................................................................................... 83 STEP 3. CONNECT GAS SERVICE.......................................................................................................... 86 STEP4. CONNECT OIL SERVICE............................................................................................................ 87 PREPARE APPLIANCES AND EQUIPMENT ..........................................................89 INSTALL AIR CONDITIONER OR HEAT PUMP...................................................................................... 89 INSTALL EVAPORATIVE COOLER......................................................................................................... 89 PREPAREHEATING SYSTEM................................................................................................................. 90 INSTALL REMOTE HEATING AND COOLING EQUIPMENT..................................................................90 #02 ® 6.01.2017 Conforms to HUD MHCSs 6/14/17 Y Am 105 construction materials, dust, and debris INTERIOR . Ceilings, walls, and floor coverings are free from damage and serious defects • Carpeting is properly stretched and seamed • All trim and molding is installed properly and free of damage and defects All cabinets, countertops, plumbing fixtures, appliances, furnishings, and window coverings are free of damage or serious defects • All cabinet doors and drawers work properly All interior and exterior doors and windows open, close, and latch properly • One window in each bedroom meets emergency egress requirements, has operating instruction labels on it, and operates properly • All temporary shipping hardware has been removed Floors are level • The data plate is intact and legible Smoke alarms have been tested • The interior of the home is clean, clear of materials, dust, and debris WATER AND DRAIN SYSTEMS • Crossover and service connection and splices have been properly made with correct materials • Water and drain lines are insulated or otherwise protected from freezing Pipe supports are installed and properly spaced • Proper slope has been maintained on all drain lines • All necessary inspections and tests have been performed All sinks, basins, tubs, and toilets operate properly • All hot and cold water lines are properly connected to fixtures, dispense water as labeled, and operate properly ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS • The panel amperage matches the connection to the home • The home has been properly grounded • The main power supply has been properly connected and tested by a licensed electrician All electrical crossovers have been connected All receptacles, switches, and light fixtures operate properly • Ground fault circuit interrupters operate properly • All exterior lights have been properly installed z GAS/FUEL OIL SYSTEMS 0 The gas system pressure test has been conducted ti Q Connections between units are properly made with access as required • The main fuel line has been properly connected and tested by a qualified technician z APPLIANCE OPERATING AND VENTING • All appliances are working properly Appliance venting is in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions Fresh air intakes are properly installed Whole house, kitchen, and bath exhaust fan operation are correct 104 • � ^^5 PREPAREVENTILATION SYSTEM......................................................................................................... 91 PREPARE FUEL -BURNING APPLIANCES..............................................................................................91 PREPARESMOKE ALARMS................................................................................................................... 93 • • 7 10:19 AM • • PREPARE KITCHEN AND BATH APPLIANCES / FIXTURES................................................................. 95 INSTALLEXTERIOR LIGHTING............................................................................................................... 95 INSTALL CEILING FANS AND LIGHTING...............................................................................................96 TEST ELECTRICAL SYSTEM................................................................................................................... 97 COMPLETE EXTERIOR WORK...............................................................................98 STEP 1. REPAIR AND SEAL BOTTOM BOARD..................................................................................... 98 STEP 2. INSTALL GROUND MOISTURE RETARDER............................................................................ 98 STEP3. INSTALL SKIRTING.................................................................................................................... 99 STEP 4. ASSEMBLE OPTIONAL WIND PROTECTION SHUTTERS......................................................100 STEP 5. COMPLETE SITE -BUILT STRUCTURES...................................................................................101 PREPARE HOME FOR OCCUPANCY.....................................................................102 STEP 1. VERIFY ALTERNATIVE CONSTRUCTION (A/C) INSPECTION................................................102 STEP 2. COMPLETE INSPECTION CHECKLIST.....................................................................................102 STEP 3. COMPLETE ENERGY STAR CHECKLIST.................................................................................102 STEP 4. CLEAN THE HOME.....................................................................................................................102 COMPLETE INSTALLATION CHECKLIST ..............................................................103 #o2 C. orms to oHUD MHCSS 6/14111 Using the Manual This manual is organized into a series of steps that will take you through the entire installation process using only those pages required for the specific home being installed. First, review the entire manual, including the Introduction chapter. As you read it, identify sections of the manual that you will need; identify other documents or information you will need; construct lists of tools and materials required for your particular installation; and make sure you have everything you need before starting work. i After reviewing the entire manual, refer to the sequence of installation steps in the table below. Identify the pathway for your installation and follow the arrows downward. Select either Single Section Home or a Multi -Section Home and choose the col- umn corresponding to the home's foundation type, either Pier and Ground Anchor or Load -Bearing Perimeter Wall (see Def- I initions, p. 4). Then complete the work in each of the sections starting with Getting Started. If using an alternative (proprietary) foundation system, the installation process will change from that described in this manual. Consult the system manufacturer directions for instructions. See page 6 for alternative foundation system criteria. ® ® e Pier'and`Ground Anchor T11 Load Bearing Perimeter Pier and Ground Anchor °li ;Load -Bearing Perimeter; Yllall Wall Getting Started (p 9) Getting Started (p 9)f'` GettmgStarted (p 9) Getting Started (p.°9) Pre are the Site (p. T, Prepare the Site p (p. ,14) Prepare the Site (p 14) ,, Prepare fhe:Site (p 14) Install Footings (p. 19) ;. Construct Foundation _ }� Install Footings (p 19) ° �., •: ConstructFoundation (p.33) s (p 33) SeEthe Home (p 35) V _13 Set the Home (p 35) IV Connect Utilities (p 80) ` v��� CompleteRoof and Exte `-� Install Stabilizing System 9 °Complete Multi -Sections Fior.Walls(p 54) (p.'68) Prepare`Appliances an'd _ `Set (p: 41) a ® 1 Equipment (p; 89) 'Al Connect Crossovers Connect Utilities (p 80) 6V 4 -° ` �' Complete Roof and Exte (p 59) V ,` � Coimplet6;Under the >`�tor Walls (p.,64) Prepare Appliances antl = ,Home antl Site Built ,� ° Complete'Interior (p 66) Equipment (p 89) "Structures (p..98) Connect Crossovers �': V- Complete Under the Prepare Home forvnz (p 59)` Connect Utilities (p 80) _ � Home and Site Built- ' Occupancy (p 102) - -Complete Interior (p. 66)� Prepare Appliances and Structures (p 98) - Egwpment (p 89) Complete'lnstallation '° Prepare Horrie.for InstalfStabilizing�System `68)r i Checklist (p.'103) ;- (p Complete Under tiie ` Occupancy, (p., 102) ° V . Home and Site Built , -Connect Ufilities',(p 80) ;Structures (p. 98)s' Complete Installation_ - F ' ; Checklist (p 103) ;Prepare Appliances and Prepare Home for Occu- Equipment (p. 89) pancy-(p.,r102) , _ _ C = Complete Under the omplete�lnstallation _ , ��Home. and Site Built - Ghecktist(p. 103) - Structures (p 98} V ' Prepare Home for I4,Occupancy (P a # K' I i _ ° Complete Installation Checklist (p. 10s) Disclaimer The Manufactured Housing Research Alliance, its members, consultants, contractors and representatives make no representations, warranty or guarantee, express or implied, as to the accuracy or appropriateness of any materials or information in this manual for use in a specific home, nor assume any liability for the use of the information, methods, or materials contained herein, or for damages arising from any such use. Copyright © 2008 Manufactured Housing Research Alliance ISSN 1529-3424 5/25I2017 10-19 AM 2 _ Complete Installation Checklist USE THIS CHECKLIST TO CONFIRM THAT THE LISTED ASPECTS OF THE IN- STALLATION ARE COMPLETE AND CORRECT. FOUNDATION • Footings properly sized and constructed for the soil conditions • Pier spacing per data plate and applicable table and roof load zone • Piers properly constructed and vertical • Perimeter blocking installed (if required) • Piers at each side of large sidewall openings • Center line piers installed at columns Shims in place and tight ANCHORS • Approved anchors are used • Anchors are installed at correct angles • Anchor spacing and installation correct • Longitudinal ties installed (if required) • Anchor straps are tensioned UNDER THE HOME • Moisture retarder installed • The ground is properly graded to prevent water accumulation • HVAC ducts are supported off the ground and connected tightly to collars at all ends • • Fireplace combustion air intake free and unrestricted No holes or tears in bottom board I Skirting has been installed per manufacturer's instructions with proper venting and provision for frost heave • Dryer vent, range/cook top exhaust, water heater temperature and pressure discharge drain is unobstructed and directed downward, water heater drip pan drain and AC condensate drain installed to perimeter of crawl space. EXTERIOR • Shingled roofs are free of visible damage and serious defects and there are no missing or loose shingles • Shingle close-up and ridge cap have been completed per applicable details • All hold down straps on shingled roofs have been removed and staple holes have been properly sealed Penetrations at roof stacks, vents and chimneys have been properly sealed • Siding and trim is free of gaps, voids, missing fasteners, damage, and serious defects. All seams are sealed and hardboard edges are sealed • Drip edge and fascia is properly installed and free of damage and serious defects • Gutters and downspouts are installed properly such that water is diverted away from the home • Trees and bushes have been trimmed to prevent brushing against the home ■ in windy conditions or under snow loads • The HUD label is exposed, intact and legible • The exterior of the home and immediate surroundings is clean, clear of • • 512512017 10:50 AM V I A &AZZA Limits of the checklist. This checklist is not all-inclusive. Some homes have important features not listed here. Completing this checklist does not guarantee that all installation requirements have been met. 103 Follow these steps for final inspection and completion of the home. STEP 1. VERIFY ALTERNATIVE CONSTRUCTION (A/C) INSPECTION (p. 102)_ STEP 2. COMPLETE INSPECTION CHECKLIST (p. 102) STEP 3. COMPLETE ENERGY STAR CHECKLIST (p. 102) STEP 4. CLEAN THE HOME (p. 102) STEP 1. VERIFY ALTERNATIVE CONSTRUCTION (A/C) INSPECTION This is normally the responsibility of the retailer and the manufacturer, however, the in- stallation is not complete until the alternative construction inspection has been passed and documented. STEP 2. COMPLETE INSPECTION CHECKLIST After all previous steps have been accomplished, inspect the home to verify that it has been completely and properly installed using the checklist starting on p. 103. Correct any deficiencies found, if possible, or if not possible, inform the retailer or man- ufacturer immediately. STEP 3. COMPLETE ENERGY STAR CHECKLIST For ENERGY STAR qualified homes (check with the retailer or manufacturer), this step is to be completed by the manufacturer's designated representative. Ask the retailer or the manufacturer who this is. The manufacturer's representative must complete the Energy Star Site Installation Checklist, obtain signatures on the ENERGY STAR label, and return the completed ENERGY STAR Site Installation Checklist to the manufacturing plant. STEP 4. CLEAN THE HOME Remove and properly dispose of all installation -generated dust, debris, and packaging materials from the home and the surrounding property. Ensure that the home is in "move -in" condition. 2 O J H rn z • 0 102 t 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 40 ,, Introduction This installation manual contains instructions that must be followed for the proper installation of the home. It complies with ing addendum pages and supplements) that may apply to the specific home prior to commencing site work or installation. This installation manual covers permits and site work through final inspection of the installation. It covers both single and multi -section homes installed over pier and anchor, load bearing crawl space walls and basement foundations. It contains instructions, including specifications and procedures, for the set and hookup of manufactured homes to be used as single- family dwellings. The importance of correct installation cannot be over -emphasized. Correct installation is absolutely essential to home- owner satisfaction and the structural integrity of the home. All instructions must be followed to provide the customer with a safe, quality home. No manual can cover all circumstances that may exist for certain home designs or building sites. For questions, further clarification, or if you encounter conditions at the site or in the design of the home or its foundation not covered by this manual, please contact the manufacturer (see Resources, p. 3), a registered engineer, or registered architect. Supplemental addendum pages may be included with this manual. Supplements include requirements not covered in this manual or that supersede the manual instructions. Once the home installation is complete, leave this manual with the home. IMPORTANT NOTICES • The home manufacturer is not responsible for installation or for the materials supplied by the set-up crew at the time of installation. The installer may be responsible for any deviations from the installation instructions of this manual. • To keep the home in compliance with its warranty; the home installation must follow the procedures described in this manual or other procedures approved by the manufacturer. Deviation from the instructions in this manual may void the home's warranty. Any alterations or changes to the home shall be approved by a registered engi- neer or registered architect and may still be subject to warranty violations. • When an installer does not provide support and anchorage in accordance with the approved manufacturer's in- stallation instructions, or encounters site conditions (such as areas that are subject to flood damage or high seismic risk) or other conditions that prevent the use of the instructions provided in this manual, the installer must obtain special site -specific instructions from the manufacturer or use a design approved by a registered engineer or registered architect. • The installer must possess a valid installation license as a manufactured home installer. • If the installer identifies failures of the home to comply with the Federal Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards (the HUD Code), the installer must notify the manufacturer and retailer. SAFETY There are potential hazards associated with the installation of a manufactured home. Home installers are licensed, and as experienced professionals, should recognize these hazards, be qualified to work with them, and be capable of providing safe work practices and equipment that minimize the risks of injury. Only qualified persons should install a manufactured home. As qualified professionals in the field of manufactured home installation, installers are the experts and must be aware of the hazards and conditions faced. Warnings are published throughout this manual as reminders. These reminders may not cover all hazards, all potential hazards, or all possible consequences of improper or unsafe installation practices. N ip Construction crews should be trained in the skills required and be supervised by experienced personnel. Installers should Z regularly inspect work performed by crews and subcontractors. Obey OSHA regulations, particularly those related to home construction, such as Title 29 Code of Regulations Part 1926. r- For copies of OSHA regulations, call (202) 512-1800 or visit on the web. lr'> -t RESOURCES Z Manufacturer contact information: > 2 See contact information inside front cover C a r Office of Regulatory Affairs and Manufactured Housing US Department of Housing and Urban Development 451 Seventh Street, SW, Room 9164 Washington, DC 20410-8000 Telephone: (202) 708-6423 or (800) 927-2891 FAX: (202) 708-4213 - -- State Administrative Agencies A list of SAAs may be found on the web 4,Avw hud.gov or by contacting the Office of Regulatory Affairs and Manufac- tured Housing, FEDERAL PREEMPTION This home was engineered, constructed, and inspected in conformance with the Federal Manufactured Home Construc- tion and Safety Standards of the US Department of Housing and Urban Development (24 CFR Part 3280, commonly re- ferred to as the "HUD Code") in effect on the date of manufacture. These Standards set forth minimum requirements for the design and construction of manufactured homes designed to be used as dwellings. Individual states, counties and cities shall have no authority to establish standards regarding the construction or safety of a manufactured home. A metal certification label is affixed to each section of the home to certify that it has been con- structed and inspected to comply with these Standards. The design plans and in -plant construction of all homes are in- spected by independent third party agencies to assure compliance with the Standards. . The installation of the home and any alterations made to the home shall conform to the requirements of the Federal Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards and the HUD Model Manufactured Home Installation Standards. These installation instructions are minimum requirements. Applicable local or state laws may have more stringent installa- tion requirements than outlined in this manual and must be followed. Consult with the local authority having jurisdiction (LAHJ) for regulations that may require licenses and/or permits or which may affect procedures described in this manual. DEFINITIONS ANCHOR ASSEMBLY. Any device or other means designed to transfer loads to the ground. ANCHORING EQUIPMENT. Ties, straps, cables, turnbuckles, chains, and other approved components, including tension- ing devices that are used to secure a manufactured home to anchor assemblies. ANCHORING SYSTEM. A combination of anchoring equipment and anchor assemblies that will, when properly designed and installed, resist the uplift, overturning, and lateral forces on the manufactured home. BASEMENT. A load -bearing perimeter wall foundation that includes habitable space (finished or unfinished, heated or unheated) partly or completely below grade. CRAWLSPACE. The space underneath the home's floor system, enclosed with either load- or non -load bearing perimeter walls. The ground may be covered with a concrete slab or by a plastic ground cover. Crawlspace walls must be vent- ed. CROSSOVERS. Utility interconnections between sections of multi -section homes, including heating and cooling ducts, electrical circuits, and water pipes, drain plumbing, and gas lines. DATA PLATE. An information sheet located at the main electrical panel, in the utility room, in a bedroom closet, or in a cabinet in the kitchen. It contains a unique identification number and identifies the wind zone, roof load zone, and cli- matic zone for which the home was constructed. DIAGONAL TIE. A tie intended to resist horizontal or shear forces, but which may resist vertical, uplift, and overturning forces. FOOTING. That portion of the support system that transmits loads directly to the soil. GROUND ANCHOR. A specific anchoring assembly device designed to transfer home loads to the ground. H-BEAM. Steel H-beams are often used to support a home over a basement or crawlspace. They span across the foun- dation from sidewall to sidewall, typically with an intermediate support pier and footing (typically in the center point re- sulting in a line of piers under the centerline of a double section home). INFORMATION PACKET. A set of important documents provided with the home including warranties, information on high wind coverage, and other features of the specific home. INSTALLATION LICENSE. The proof that an installer meets the requirements for installing manufactured homes under the HUD -administered installation program. • • • r� Lumber (see table) Fasteners (see table) -- _ _ _ _ � — r -- Opening wall framing Glass I 'I I B 1,1I B II,I 2 X6 Lumber I.I 111.1 Section B-B L' — — — — — —J '1 L Window width TABLE 34. SHUTTER CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS 1layer 2layers Inlayer 15/32" sheathing 15/32" sheathing 20d nails 32116 span rating 32116 span rating at 4" oc 1 layer 20d nails -" r 2layers• (0.131" x 4') l 23132"¢sheathing ; 23132 sheathing at 4" oc 2nd layer 48l24 span rating '; 48l24 span,rating 40d nails 1 layer along edges 2 layers (0.131"x5') 1-1/8" sheathing I1-1/8" sheathing - at 3" oc 48" oc span rating 48" oc span rating E along edges Figure 97. Wind Protection Shutters Constructed of -Lumber 2x6 #2 SPF 2x6 #2 SPF STEP 5. COMPLETE SITE -BUILT STRUCTURES Install site -built structures such as steps, landings, garages, awnings, carports, breezeways, porches, decks, railings, sheds, and utility rooms according to manufac- turer's instructions (if any), in compliance with all local regulations including fire separa- tion and electrical requirements, and according to the following: • Do not obstruct any of the two required exit doors from the home. • Construct site -built structures to be structurally independent unless provided for in the design of the home (instructions will be provided by the manufactur- er). The only connections to the home should be for appearance or water drainage and should not transmit any loads to any part of the home. • Do not damage the integrity of the home's structural or weatherproofing sys- tem. Seal any weatherproofing connections between the site -built structure and the home and flash any roof connections. • Utilize only GFCI outlets for site -built structures. • Install and test smoke alarms in any site -built structures according to local code. • Any site built structure must provide its own heating and cooling, light and ventilation, and egress means independent of the manufactured home. E�I►��f�irryfli[iA[ai 7�Ti�l 20d nails (0.131" x 4) 3 each at each end of board V&IrZZA Designing site -built struc- tures. All site -built struc- tures must support their own dead, live, and wind loads and must not transmit any loads to the home's structure. All car- ports, awnings and patio covers should be free- standing. .uo KIM I STEP 4. ASSEMBLE OPTIONAL WIND PROTECTION SHUTTERS If desired, prepare temporary protective window covers for use during severe wind storms and hurricanes according to Figure 96, Figure 97, Table 34, and the procedure below. Sheathing shown in Table 34 must be labeled "APA Rated Sheathing, Exterior" or equivalent. Where any portion of the window or sliding glass door opening is within 3 feet of the corner of the home, use the appropriate "corner" materials as shown in Ta- ble 34. For ease of removal, it is recommended that all nailing for the shutters be done with double -headed nails. After use, remove shutters from the home, patch nail holes in the home with caulk and store them for possible reuse. Window width --------------I I I• Openingwall A I A I framing Glass I I 48" Face grain direction I max. •I I •y— 1" min. from edge • I of sheathing I. Structural I sheathing Face grain direction I— — — — — --`—I Section A -A 4" -- Fasteners (Typical) (see table) V * AA Window protection. This home has not been equipped with storm shutters or other protective coverings for the windows and door openings. Even though the windows and doors have been approved for use in the wind zone for which the home is labeled, it is strongly recommended that all exterior glass (in any window or door) be protected by the shutters shown in this step. Figure 96. end Protection Shutters Constructed of Sheathing • • LABELED. Equipment or materials to which has been attached a label, symbol, or other identifying mark of a certified testing laboratory, inspection agency, or other an organization concerned with product evaluation. The label indicates compliance with nationally recognized standards or tests to determine suitable usage in a specified manner. LISTED OR CERTIFIED. Included in a list published by a nationally recognized testing laboratory, inspection agency, or other_-—ganizatiortconceraed-witttpFoduct-�vaLuation=that maintains periodiaiaspectiocwf_pra_duction ailisted_equip= ment or materials, and whose listing states either that the equipment or material meets nationally recognized stand- ards or has been tested and found suitable for use in a specified manner. LOAD -BEARING PERIMETER WALL FOUNDATION. A support system for the home whereby the home is mechanically fastened to a structural wall(s) that transfers gravity, lateral, and uplift loads to the ground. LOCAL AUTHORITY HAVING JURISDICTION (LAHJ). The state, city, county, municipality, utility, or organization that has local responsibilities that must be complied with during the installation of a manufactured home. MUST. Indicates a mandatory requirement. NIA. Indicates not applicable. PIER. That portion of the support system between the footing and the manufactured home, exclusive of shims. Types of piers include, but are not limited to: (1) manufactured steel stands; (2) pressure -treated wood; (3) manufactured con- crete stands; (4) concrete blocks; and (5) portions of foundation walls. PIER AND GROUND ANCHOR FOUNDATION. A support system for the home that employs piers under the chassis and other locations to support gravity loads and employs ground anchors and tie downs (the stabilizing system) to resist lateral and uplift loads. PERIMETER BLOCKING. Regularly spaced piers supporting the sidewalls and marriage line of the home. Some homes require perimeter blocking in addition to supports under the home's frame. QUALIFIED. Has the necessary knowledge and skills gained from experience and training that will allow performance of the job safely, competently, and in accordance with all applicable codes, standards, rules, and regulations. Meets all necessary qualification tests including any license and certification requirements that may be in effect in the area where the home will be installed. RAMADA. Any freestanding roof or shade structure, installed or erected over a manufactured home or any portion there- of. SHOULD. Indicates a recommendation that is strongly advised but not mandatory. • SHALL. Indicates a mandatory requirement. SITE FORA MANUFACTURED HOME. A designated parcel of land designed for the accommodation of one manufac- tured home, its accessory buildings or structures, and accessory equipment, for the exclusive use of the occupants of the home. SKIRTING. A weather -resistant material used to enclose the perimeter, under the living area of the home, from the bottom of the manufactured home to grade. STABILIZING SYSTEM. All components of the anchoring and support systems, such as piers, footings, ties, anchoring equipment, anchoring assemblies, or any other equipment, materials and methods of construction, that support and secure the manufactured home to the ground. SUPPORT SYSTEM. Pilings, columns, a combination of footings, piers, foundation walls, caps, and shims and any com- bination thereof that will, when properly installed, support and secure the manufactured home to the ground. TIE. Straps, cable, or securing devices used to connect the manufactured home to anchoring assemblies. UTILITY CONNECTION. The connection of the manufactured home to utilities that include, but are not limited to, electrici- ty, water, sewer, gas, or fuel oil. VERTICAL TIE. A tie intended to resist uplifting and overturning forces. WIND ZONE. The areas designated on the Basic Wind Zone Map, as further defined by the Manufactured Home Con- struction and Safety Standards. ENGINEER'S STAMP Certain pages of this manual display the seal of a registered engineer. Federal guidelines only require the seal from one state to be displayed, but the details herein apply to all states. r 100 i 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 9 5/25/2017 1019 AM 2 SYMBOLS USED IN THE MANUAL I This icon indicates an important warning. It is critical to heed these warnings. �A This icon indicates a recommended best practice. While not required, following these practices will result in a superior installation, reducing the chance that cosmetic or dura- bility related complaints might arise. ABBREVIATIONS j ABS Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene max. Maximum ANSI American National Standards Institute MHCSS Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards jAPA American Plywood Association min. Minimum American Society for Testing and Ma- ASTM terials mph Mile(s) per hour i AWPA American Wood Preservers Associa- NEC National Electric Code tion i CFM Cubic feet per minute NFIP National Flood Insurance Program i CFR Code of Federal Regulations NFPA National Fire Protection Association DWV Drain, Waste, Vent O.C. On center EMT Electrical metallic tubing OSHA Occupational Safety and Health Admin- istration FEMA Federal Emergency Management oz Ounce(s) Agency ft Foot/feet p. Page I ga Gauge psf Pounds per square foot US Department of Housing and Ur - HUD ban Development psi Pounds per square inch in Inch(es) SAA State Administrative Agency LAHJ Local Authority Having Jurisdiction sq ft Square foot/feet lb(s) Pound(s) ALTERNATIVE FOUNDATION SYSTEMS Alternative foundation systems or designs are permitted if they are approved by the home manufacturer and the manufac- turer's DAPIA, and are in accordance with either of the following: • Systems or designs are manufactured and installed in accordance with their listings by a nationally recognized testing agency based on a nationally recognized testing protocol; or • System designs are prepared by a registered engineer or a registered architect or tested and certified by a regis- tered engineer or registered architect in accordance with acceptable engineering practice and are manufactured and installed so as not to take the home out of compliance with the Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards. i DISPLAY AND STORAGE OF THE HOME WEATHER PROTECTION If the installation is not started immediately upon delivery of the home, the retailer and/or installer has the responsibility to ensure the exterior weather protection covering of marriage walls and the roof of homes with hinged roofs has not been damaged during shipment. Inspect the home immediately upon the delivery and frequently during storage. Promptly repair tears in the home closure materials to prevent damage from the elements. Inspect and repair roof shingles and siding as needed. i i 5/25/2017 10:19 AM X • 0 • • 9 4. Repair tears. Repair any voids or tears in the retarder by patching with like ma- terial, maintaining a minimum 12-inch overlap and sealing the joints. STEM 3. INSTALL SKIRTING Skirting is any structural or non-structural perimeter crawlspace enclosure. Complete site -built structures (see STEP 5. COMPLETE SITE -BUILT STRUCTURES, p.101) that abut the home (such as porches, attached garages, and steps) prior to installing skirting. To design and install skirting, comply with the skirting manufacturers instructions (if provided) and the following: 1. Configure skirting. Run the skirting along the perimeter of the home's heat- ed, conditioned space. Do not enclose with skirting areas under recessed en- tries, porches, or decks (whether constructed as part of the home or added on site) unless skirting is of the fully vented type and installed so as to allow wa- ter to freely flow out from under the home. 2. Fasten skirting. Attach skirting to the home in a manner that prevents water from being trapped between the siding or trim and the skirting or forced up in- to the wall cavities trim to which it is attached. Allow for frost heave when in- stalling skirting in areas subject to frost. 3. Provide ventilation. Unless the skirting has integral ventilation openings that meet the following ventilation requirements, install equally sized ventilation openings on at least two opposite sides of the foundation. Size ventilation ar- ea to equal at least one square foot for each 150 square feet of under -floor area (or for each 1,500 square feet if a ground moisture retarder is installed according to STEP 2. INSTALL GROUND MOISTURE RETARDER, p. 98). Place vents as high above the ground as practical. 4. Install access. Provide an access opening not less than 18 inches wide and 24 inches high and located so that any utility connections located under the home are accessible. 5. Extend vents, drains, and inlets. Run appliance exhaust vents, combustion air inlets, and air conditioner condensation drains through the skirting to the outside and terminate each as instructed in the sections of this manual corre- sponding to each appliance. crawlspace foundations in areas where radon is com- monly found in the soil, continue the moisture re- tarder up the perimeter wall at least 12 inches, sealing the edges and between the seams with mastic. V&FAZZA Avoid backfilling against skirting. Do not backfill against non-structural skirt- ing. V ZZ Skirting and decks. Homes with open slatted decking (recessed entries, porches, or decks) must have skirt- ing or foundation behind these areas to prevent wa- ter from draining back un- der the home. Freezing climates. Skirting should not be relied upon to prevent freezing of the plumbing underneath the home. Neither should skirt- ing be relied upon to re- duce the need for frost pro- tection of the footings as described elsewhere in this manual. Ventilation importance. The area under the home must be properly ventilated to minimize the accumula- tion of moisture. Failure to provide adequate ventila- tion may result in moisture migration into the home it- self resulting in high hu- midity, formation of con- densation, and even ice on cold surfaces. Complete Exterior Work and completing site -built structures. STEP1. REPAIR AND SEAL BOTTOM' BOARD (p. 98) T STEP 2. INSTALL GROUND MOISTURE RETARDER (p. 98) STEP 3. INSTALL SKIRTING (p. 99) V • • SUPPORTING A HOME FOR DISPLAY When a new or used manufactured home is to be displayed at a retail location, temporarily block and support the home. Set up single -section homes with single block piers spaced no further apart than 12 feet o.c. beneath each I-beam. The tire and axle system may be used as one of these required supports, and the hitch jack may be used as another. Locate the first pier no further than two feet from the rear end of the home (Figure 1). Place additional piers along the perimeter STEP 4. ASSEMBLE OPTIONAL WIND PROTECTION SHUTTERS (p. 100) STEP 5. COMPLETE SITE -BUILT STRUCTURES (p. 101) STEM 1. REPAIR AND SEAL BOTTOM BOARD Tears and openings in the bottom board can result from transportation or installation activities. Inspect for holes and gaps the entire bottom board, especially areas around service penetrations, crossover connections, pipe and duct hangers, foundation ele- ments, and the perimeter of the floor. Using approved materials appropriate for the type of repair, repair the bottom board wherever tom or loosened as follows: continuous and sealed bot- 1. Insulate. Replace any missing insulation prior to closure and repair of the bot- tom board is critical for home performance, energy tom board, paying particular attention to insulation gaps that may have been efficiency, protection created at P-traps. against moisture problems, • • 2. Repair large openings. Repair large openings with a durable patch made of prevention of pipe freezing, bottom board fabric or other compatible material and fastened with vinyl bot- and protection against in - tom board tape held in place by fasteners installed with a divergent stapler. sects and rodents. Seal the edges around patches with foam or mastic. For large openings, in- Bottom board sealing stall a rigid backer board behind the bottom board to provide a fastening sub- methods. Tapes shall nev- strate for the patch. er be used alone to repair a 3. Repair small openings. Repair small gaps and tears with a combination of bottom board. Divergent vinyl bottom board tape, patches, mastic, foam sealant or equivalent. staples, mastic or similar must be used in tandem STEP 2. INSTALL GROUND MOISTURE RETARDER with tape to prevent future If the space under the home is to be enclosed with skirting or other materials, a ground tear off. moisture retarder of a minimum six mil thick polyethylene sheeting or equivalent must Fastening vinyl siding. Do be installed covering the ground under the home. Moisture retarders are not required in not install fasteners directly and regions (less than 15 inches of rainfall annually) with dry soil conditions. If on- into vinyl siding. Allow for Z Q grade (surface) footings are used, install the ground moisture retarder prior to placing siding thermal expansion the footings, or install it around the footings after all other work under the home is com- by pre -drilling minimum 1/2 dplete. inch diameter fastener - Install the ground moisture retarder as follows: holes or fastening skirting to a ledger under the home 1. Apply sheeting. Unroll the ground moisture overlapping joints in the sheeting a (see Best Practice tip). — minimum of 12 inches and covering the entire area under the home except for areas under recessed entries, decks, and porches. 2. Seal joints. Seal joints in the retarder. @Aolding 3. Weigh down. To keep the retarder in place, weigh it down with stones, concrete radon. blocks, or other heavy, durable materials. For enclosed perimeter wall 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 98 For multi -section homes, locate additional piers along the marriage line under support columns. These locations will be marked by the manufacturer. Figure 1. Supporting a home for display Grade 12'-0" 12'-0" 1 z-0" 12'-0• 12'-0" For all homes, place footings below each pier. Footings may be placed directly on the surface grade without excavation and may be ABS pads, 2 x 10 by 16 inch long pressure treated lumber or 16" x 16" by 4 inch thick concrete pads. SUPPORTING A HOME FOR STORAGE To prevent damage to homes being stored but not on display (i.e. people shall not be permitted inside the home) for a pe- riod exceeding 30 days, locate piers below each I-beam no further than two feet from each end of the home and at the approximate center of the home length. CUSTOMIZATION OF THE MODEL MANUAL This manual is based on a model manufacturer's installation manual used by many different companies. It may have been customized from the model by the manufacturer. The table below lists the locations where this manual differs from the model manual. Section Gettin"Started,"2-Confirm=Wind Step , Summary of the change I Zone _ `_ �, =Ai3iletl information for VyZll of III homeun WZI area: Added clarification that homes not be designated for the Humid & Fringe zone Gettin Started 3 - Confirm Thermal Zone may still be located in that zone. 4 Confirm the Roof Load_' Added note`that 30 psf or higher rootload home m 20 psf zonetmay omit pe .St t PF o r'Gettin . I,, doors)' a. ^: Prepare the Site 3Clear &Grade the Site is suitable for uq hers. Addedclarification that homegutters. Vz Design Point Loads Sup Deleted warning for 40 psf and higher roof loads (Plans for home will include , InstalPFootin s e orts`x: the.loads forsuch installations s.. Deleted Table for Point -Load Footings; Deleted Figure for Typical Point Load 1 - Design Point Loads Sup- Supports; Revised Calculate Loads section. (Reason - Mating line loads are Install Footings ports indicated on floorplans) ---Added exception to the warning concerning having a support no (tore than.12", Install Footings 2 - Design-Frame,Supports = from°end of beam for 10 &a12wides 3 - Design Frame & Perim. Added exception to the warning concerning having a support no more than 12" Install Footin s Sup from end of beam for 10 & 12 wides _ _ Deleted Figure for Typical Marriage Um Sue pport Locations; deleted text for vY' 3 Design Frame &Perim. mating hne,tearing wa_ lis (Reason Mating line loans are indicated onfloor Install°Footin s _ Su . ` , �;- .Flans.: Install Footings 4 - Select Footing Material Added wood footing material to Table for Footing Materials _ insfaltFooting's 5 -Size Footings Added note concerning conc. runners,asaltemate tp footings, ''s. Added Table for Footing Equivalents added showing equivalents for precast Install Footings 5 - Size Footings concrete, round concrete, and lumber. Install Footm s -.` ,° 6 -Install Footings `- Added Fi ures for Multi Je Piers at Su ` ort Post, with or without G-stra s Construct Founda- Added warning about foundation dimensions when 2x6 exterior wall option is tion 4 - Construct Perim. Wall ordered. Also clarified when special foundation plans are required. Set the Home . : ' _ 1' - Prepare for Set".,` , _ Revised level tolerance; eliminated 1/4",overall tolerance: Set the Home 4 -Construct the Piers _Deleted pressure treated wood from Table for Pier Materials_ Complete Multi Replaced all, hinged truss details with new ones. -including details for ridge filler = Section Set_ , . 3 - Coomjilete HingedRoof 4 .o"tion Complete Multi Deleted figure for in -floor cross -over duct; added figure for mating line gasket Section Set 4 - Mating Line Gasket installation Complete Multi-. ^ Section Set °. v 4- Mating Line Gasket" - ° (Added warm aboutmatin line ask'et � Complete Multi- 5 - Position Additional Home Section Set Sections Added tolerance of 1-1/2" at roof eak and addedp!ywood as shim materials Complete Multi= Increased lag bolt andeliminated.wobd screws from Table for Floor Con -- Section Set - 6 -Connect Floors . ` - - . . .`nection. _. r �.. o Vertical anchoring may be ignored, however the brackets along the COMBUSTION AIR INLETS sidewall should remain in place. Combustion air inlets provide combustion air through the floor or an exterior wall to aA o Floor and roof connections may be per Wind Zone I - - — — combustion appliance. If through -an exterior wall, site installation is not required. If 6 • When a Wind Zone III home is placed in Wind Zone II, all requirements of through the floor combustion air must be provided from outside the home and through Installing combustion air the skirting. Using a combustion air duct system, as shown in Figure 91, that is listed Wind Zone III should be followed. for use with the fireplace provided with the home and installed in accordance with the inlets. Do not install the combustion air inlet such • Homes located within 1,500 feet of the coastline in Wind Zones II and III must instructions provided. that material from the be designed to withstand exposure 'D' conditions. This will be indicated on Locate the inlet damper above expected snow levels. (Contact the LAHJ for snow hearth can drop beneath the data plate. levels). the home. If the home does not conform to these rules, contact the manufacturer immediately. Follow the fireplace manufacturer's instructions in all cases (typically in the fireplace/stove or with the chimney parts). TABLE 1. WIND ZONE BY LOCALITY HEARTHS Wind Zone I If shipped loose, install the fireplace hearth according to the fireplace manufacturer's All areas except those areas`hsted below as beinj within Wind Zane Il or III = _ instructions. z • ... Coun of Baldwin andMobue m _" - PREPARE KITCHEN AND BATH APPLIANCES / FIXTURES • • - All counties except those listed below as within Wind Zone III Install kitchen and bath appliances according to the manufacturer's instructions and the r " procedures described for each J °F proc h appliance below. • • • Counties of Bryan' CInstalling amden; Chatham Glynn Liberty," McIntosh Illin exhaust ducts. • Parishes of Acadia, Allen, Ascension, Assumption, Calcasieu, Cameron, East Baton Rouge, East Feliciana, COOKING APPLIANCES 9 Evangeline, Iberia, Iberville, Jefferson Davis, Lafayette, Livingston, Pointe Coupee, St. Helena, St. James, St. John If the home is provided with a range, cook top and/or grill containing its own exhaust Route exhaust ducts so the Baptist, St. Landry, St. Martin, St. Tammany, Tangipahoa, Vermillion, Washington, West Baton Rouge, and system that penetrates the floor, complete the exhaust system as follows: they do not terminate be - West Feliciana 1 R R thethefactory-installed h heath the home. MaineCounties of Hancock and Washington'', " truding from beneath the floor neartheappliance. exhaust pipe p o t i e r Massachusetts Counties of Barnstable Bristol Dukes Nantucket and Plymouth 2. Install termination fitting. Secure the provided termination fitting at the outside Mississippi Counhes_of George Hancock Harrison Jackso Pearl River and Stone _ edge of the floor. .z.,. " _ m a 3. Install duct. Use the provided flexible metallic duct to connect the elbow pro - North Carolina of Beaufort, Brunswick, Camden, Chowan, Columbus, Craven, Currituck, Jones, New Hanover, Onslow, ° trudin from the floor and the termination fitting. Refer to the manufacturer's Pamlico, Pasquotank, Pender, Perquimans, Tyrrell, and Washington 9 9• _Counties of Beaufort Berkeley Charleston Colleton Do[ __ installation instructions for guidance on supporting the duct and making the South- _ _ chester, Georgetown, Hory; Jasper °an_d Willia isburg . connections. Counties of Aransas, Brazoria, Calhoun, Cameron, Chambers, Galveston, Jefferson, Kennedy, Kleberg, Matagor- da, Nueces, Orange, Refugio, San Patricio, and Willacy _ _ • • SITE -INSTALLED GAS APPLIANCES • W Cdies.of.'Chesapeake NorfolkPorfsmouth, Princess Anne and Virginia Beach F Install only appliances with a Btu capacity equivalent to or less than the capacity of the factory -installed piping and at the location of a factory -installed gas riser. Entire state REFRIGERATOR Coastal legions (as determined by the 90 mph tsotach on the ANSASCE 7, 88 map} Prepare the refrigerator as follows: _ .. Florida Counties of Broward, Charlotte, Collier, Dade, Franklin, Gulf, Hendry, Lee, MartinRemove straps, blocks, or other securement devices used for shipping and, Manatee, Monroe, Palm Beach, • patch an resulting marks on floors or walls. Pinellas, and Sarasota P Y 9 Louisiana Parishes bf Jefferson L_a Fourche .Orleans Plaquemines St Bernard St. Charles Sti Mary and Terreb� onne • If the refrigerator has an icemaker, check water lines for leaks upon installa- • Counties of Carteret, Dare, and Hyde- -" �� tion and a few days later to make sure no leaks have developed. 4 i • All regions of the U.S. Te ries of American Samoa Guam Noittern Mariana islands; Puerto Rico Trust Temto- SITE -INSTALLED APPLIANCES AND FIXTURES ry of the Pa ifc Islands 'and the Urnted StatesNyirgm Islands If sinks, tubs, showers or other fixtures or appliances are to be site -installed, follow the d°= Q manufacturer's installation instructions. Use only products listed for use in STEP 3. CONFIRM THERMAL ZONE manufactured homes and follow all applicable local codes. Z. From Figure 3, identify the thermal (UO) zone for the home. Verify that the home con- forms to the following rules. • No home may be located in an area with a higher thermal zone number than Q 1 that indicated on the data plate. (Example: a home designed for Thermal H Zone 2 cannot be placed in Thermal Zone 3.)� • A home may be located in a lower thermal zone than that indicated on the da- ta plate. (Example: a home designed for Thermal Zone 2 may be placed in ei- Lighting installation. A ther Thermal Zone 2 or 1.). qualified electrician should • In no case may a home designated for installation in the "Humid & Fringe INSTALL EXTERIOR LIGHTING install lighting. Before con - Climate," as identified on the data plate, be located outside of this region Install exterior lighting according to Figure 94 and the following: necting lighting, disconnect (Table 2). A home that is not specifically designated for installation in the 1. Remove cover. Remove the screws and cover from electrical junction box. power to the lighting circuit. 10 5/25/2017 10:19 AM • 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 10621 t<ebw, ��si Asrtq�r ram, -tt�as 44z,9'ce a+adm;rn '`^�L tzsiir} , //- j; �� Push Down Caulkug I �`6p�/i9 W Flange Storm collar Flashing Z O J i Trim With Sheet lvletal (f) Sheers If Difficult To Make Z Flashing Lay Flat On Roof 94 Upper and Side Roof Shingles Shingles Overlap Flange and Are Set In Flange Asphalt Cement I I I I Flue Pipe Lower Part of Flange Overlaps Lower Shingle Figure 91. Chimney and combustion air intake duct installation IF or 1 �J Selecting the appropriate flue. Wood fireplaces use larger diameter flues than gas fireplaces. Make sure flue matches the appliance type. Gas fireplaces cannot burn wood because the flue is too small and smoke will back up into the home. If wood fireplaces are con- verted to gas the flue will be too large resulting in ex- cessive heat loss through the chimney. Figure 92. Chimney clear- ance Figure 93. Roof flashing and shingle installation around chimney 5/25/2017 1 • "Humid and Fringe Climate" (that is, has no such designation at all on the da- ta plate) may still be located in this region (Table 2). If the home does not conform to these rules, contact the manufacturer immediately. UT s t va r i to s4 � SG k _,fit � Li i ,g —�'" �`•e1 # r��'' r R1 _ pl is ti, • rt, a-mw. aria att aan TABLE 2. HUMID AND FRINGE CLIMATE ZONES , Bullock,`Butler, Cl ouston, Lowndes, F All counties and locations Figure 3. Thermal (UO) zone map IHawaii All counties and locations Louisiana All counties and,locabons = _ MississippiCounties of Adams, Amite, Claiborne, Clarke, Copiah, Covington, Forrest, Franklin, George, Greene, Hancock, Harrison, Hinds, Issaquena, Jackson, Jasper, Jefferson, Jefferson Davis, Jones, Lamar, Lawrence, Lincoln, Mari- on, Pearl River, Perry, Pike, Rankin, Simpson, Smith, Stone, Walthall, Warren, Wayne, and Wilkinson _ _ North Carolina Counties of Brunswick, Carteret, Columbus, New Hanover, Onslow, and Pender Counties of Beaufort, Berkeley, Charleston, Colleton,�Dorchester, Georgetown, Horry and Jasper Counties of Anderson, Angelina, Aransas, Atascosa,'Austm, Bastrop, Bee, Bexar, Brazorla, Brazos,'Brooks, Bur- leson, Caldwell, Calhoun, Cameron, Camp, Cass, Chambers; Cherokee, Colorado, Comal,'De Witt, Dimmit; Duval, Falls; Fayette, Fort'Bend; Franklin, Freestone, Frio, Galveston, Goliad, Gonzales,; Gregg„Grimes Guadalupe, Hardin; Harris„Harrison, Hays, Henderson, Hidalgo, Hopkins, Houston,'Jackson, Jasper, Jefferson Jim,Hogg,`Jim , Wells,-Kames Kaufman Kennedy Kinney, Kleberg La Salle Lavaca Lee, Leon, Liberty Llmestone Live Oak ` Madison Marlon,°'Matagorda Maverick McMullen Medina Mllam MontgomeryMorns Nacogdoches Navarro, ., San Patrlao; Shelby Smith; Starr, Titus, -Travis, Trinity Tyler,; Upshur,,Uvalde, Val Walker, Waller,iWashington, Webb, Wharton, Willacy, Williamson, Wilson, Wood, STEP 4. CONFIRM ROOF LOAD ZONE Verde, Van Zandt Victoria,. Zapata, and'Zavala - e From Table 3, identify the Roof Load Zone for the home. Verify that the home con- forms to the following rules. • No home may be placed in an area with a higher roof load than that indicated Ta on the data plate. (Example: a home designed for the South (20 psf) Roof r_ Load Zone cannot be placed in the Middle (30 psf) Roof Load Zone). • A home may be located in an area with a lower roof load than that indicated on the data plate. (Example: a home designed for the Middle (30 psf) Roof Load Zone may be placed in the South (20 psf) Roof Load Zone). • Note —When a home designed for a higher roof load zone is placed in the 20 Z psf Roof Load Zone, the perimeter piering may be omitted with the exception of the point -load support locations (doors, openings 4 feet or greater in width, r_ etc.) which are still required. 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 11 • There are special high roof load areas (primarily in mountains) not shown on the map. Contact the LAW or SAA for information about these areas. The home's data plate will indicate if the home has been designed for one of these high roof load areas. • Ramadas may be used in areas with roof live loads greater than 40 psf. Ramadas are to be self-supporting, except that any connection to the home must be for weatherproofing only. TABLE 3. ROOF LOADS BY LOCALITY 12 110[1ARIshTil PREPARE SMOKE ALARMS The home has several factory installed smoke alarms that are wired to a 120-volt - - circuit. If the home was designed -for placement on a basement, an additional alarm is provided for installation at a pre -wired location under the home. Connect the basement I smoke alarm to its circuit and test all alarms as follows: 1. Check circuit. Ensure that electrical power to the home is activated and that the smoke alarm circuit is on. A green light illuminated on the cover of the alarm indicates the alarm has 120V power. 2. Test alarms with AC Power. Verify that backup batteries are installed and any protective tabs have been removed. Press the test button on each alarm sequentially. All alarms should sound simultaneously when the test button on any one smoke alarm is pressed. Replace any alarms that do not sound with the same brand as those installed elsewhere in the home and retest. 3. Test alarms with DC Power. Disconnect the alarms from the AC power source (trip the appropriate breaker in the panel box). Repeat the testing in step 2 for every alarm. If any alarm emits a periodic "chirping" sound this indicates that the batteries for that alarm should be replaced. 4. Restore power. Reconnect the alarms to the AC power source by switching i on the appropriate breaker. PREPARE FIREPLACES Install chimneys, chimney flashing and roofing, fireplace combustion air inlets, and hearths according to the manufacturer's instructions and the procedures described below. CHIMNEYS Fireplace and wood stoves may require on -site installation of additional sections of approved chimney pipe, a spark arrestor, and a rain cap assembly. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and the procedures described below: 1. Remove coverings. Remove protective materials covering the roof flashing • • and any foreign material from the installed part of the chimney. 2. Install chimney pipe. Assemble and seal the chimney per the fireplace or wood stove manufacturer's installation instructions and if there is a conflict between the instructions and the figure, follow the instructions. To assure sufficient draft for proper operation, extend the chimney at least three feet above the highest point where it penetrates the roof and at least two feet higher than any surface within 10 feet of the chimney (Figure 92). Use additional section(s) of chimney pipe (not provided) if required by local code or if the site has obstructions within 10 feet of the chimney. 3. Install shingles. Install shingles up to the edge of the flue cut-out in the roof deck. Secure shingles installed under the roof flashing with asphalt cement. 4. Install flashing. Place flashing over pipe section and shingles and set in as- phalt cement. Secure flashing to roof deck at top two corners with roofing nails. 5. Complete shingles. Cut shingles in successive courses to fit around the pipe and embed them in asphalt cement where they overlap the flashing. Secure shingles with roofing nails through flashing and apply asphalt cement over nail heads. The completed installation should appear as shown in Figure 93, with the lower part of the flange overlapping the lower shingles and the side and upper shingles overlapping the flange. 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 54M E, DRYER VENTS If the home includes a clothes dryer, the components for ventilating the dryer are in- cluded with the home (but not necessarily installed) and a vent opening has been_ Toughed iri either In t >�II or floor. a ryer Is not Insta le , seal all dryer vent open- ings). Run the dryer vent to the outside through the exterior wall or through the floor to a point beyond the perimeter of the home, using materials approved by the clothes dryer man- ufacturer (see Figure 90). Vent Below Floor Wall Clampto Vent Cap Cap Install the vent as follows: Vent Through Exterior Wall Elbow WM Clampto Rigid Duct Vent Cap igid or Flex Duct Clamp to Dryer Connection Dryer Vent 5�h5 525 Cap Seal Bottom Elbow With Rigid Duct Support Strap Rigid or Flex Duct Wood Frame Secured to Bottom of Rim Flateor Install Through Skirting Clamp to Dryer Connection 1. Remove temporary caps. Remove any temporary seals and duct caps from the vent rough openings. 2. Install ductwork. Install ductwork using clamps (do not use screws or other fasteners that penetrate into the duct) and support the duct with metal straps connected to the floor joists or chassis at two feet D.C. or less. Ensure duct connections are internally overlapped to prevent inhibiting the flow of air and thereby causing lint accumulation. 3. Install cap and damper. Install an approved dryer vent cap with damper on the exterior termination of the duct. If the vent terminates at skirting, secure the cap to framing or skirting with sheet metal screws and seal edges with caulk or sealant. If the vent terminates through a wall, apply a bead of sealant to the back of the cap around the opening and secure with sheet metal screws to metal, hardboard or fiber cement siding or with wood screws to a mount block for vinyl siding. 4. Seal opening. Seal openings inside and outside of the home including at the floor, interior walls, siding and skirting (with caulk), and at the bottom board using foam, mastic and/or tape specially made for that purpose. GAS DRYERS If the home was not fitted for a gas dryer, installing one requires substantial alteration to the home. Gas supply piping and adequate venting must be provided as specified by the dryer manufacturer and installed by a trained professional. Do not cut major struc- tural elements to accommodate a gas dryer. _. _.._... -....... _..... __... ....... _... .._.__ _--- ...._..... ------ . . ....... . ................ STEP 5. CHECK LOCAL CODES AND SECURE PERMITS Local regulations may set conditions for the setting and installation of a manufactured - - -- - - - -- - - ome Eonsulf e s a e manu are = ousing=a %ocia Ion, -and the state SAA (See Resources, p. 3) for the specific local requirements, including: • Building codes that may affect the construction of site built structures and in- frastructure. • Local requirements regulating the installation of manufactured homes. • Setback requirements for property lines, streets, yards, and courts. Figure 90. Clothes dryer 0 Fire separation distances. ventilation ductwork through . Development covenants for the specific property. floor (left) or exterior wall (right) . The locations of flood hazard areas and any special foundation requirements for homes installed in those areas. • In some areas, building permits are required to install manufactured homes. Prior to making any alteration to the site and the home, contact the LAHJ to determine if plan approval and permits are required. V ZZ Avoid damaging structural elements. Do not cut or otherwise damage structur- al elements such as floor joists or wall studs for the installation of the dryer ex- haust system. Gas. Ventilation components that may be included with the home for an electric dryer may not be accepta- ble for gas dryers. Consult the gas dryer manufacturer instructions. Installing ducts. Keep ductwork straight and smooth as possible without excess slack. Slope it slightly downward towards the exterior to facilitate moisture drainage. Areas subject to flooding. The foundation specifica- tions contained in this manual are NOT intended to address flood loads. If the home is in the flood plain, consult a registered engineer. t I t I I 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 92 13 ._—._........ .................................. __.._........._..............._........._.._...._._.....__..__.........................,...__.._..- Prepare the Site A properly prepared site is critical to a good quality installation and the long term structural stability of the home. This chapter explains the process of planning the site, evaluating the soil, and preparing the site for construction of the home's support system. STEP. 1. PLAN SITE ACCESS (p. 14), V STEP 2. DETERMINE HOME LOCATION AND LAYOUT (p. 14) V 'STEP 3. CLEAR AND-GRADETHE SITE (p. 15) 'STEP 4. DETERMINE SOIL CONDITIONS (p. 15)` V STEP 5. DETERMINE SOIL BEARING CAPACITY AND FROST LINE (p. 16) STEP 6. DETERMINE GROUND ANCHOR HOLDING CAPACITY (p.-17), STEP 1. PLAN SITE ACCESS Planning the route to the site is typically the responsibility of the retailer or transporta- tion company. Whoever is responsible must secure state permits from the states through which the home will pass. In planning the route, avoid obstructions that might interfere with the passage of the home, such as low hanging wires and trees, low overpasses, and bridges not suitable for the load. Contact the utility company if wires need to be moved. Do not allow branches, bushes, or other foliage to scrape against the home as the home is moved to the site. Avoid ditches, berms, steep slopes, and soft ground. Identify and fill any holes and soft spots into which the transporter's wheels may sink. Avoid moving over steep changes in grade (20 degrees or more). If required, provide for home storage and staging areas on the site. Plan the delivery and staging of home sections and materials so that after all deliveries are complete, home sections and materials can be accessed for use and installed in the appropriate sequence. Orient home sections so they do not have to be rotated or excessively ma- neuvered during the installation process. Plan for temporary needs, such as dump- sters, portable toilets, crew parking, delivery vehicle drop-offs and concrete mixer de- liveries. Before moving the manufactured home to the site, inform the LAHJ and make sure the site is prepared and utilities are available. STEP 2. DETERMINE HOME LOCATION AND LAYOUT The home location may have already been determined by others. If not, plan the home location and layout in compliance with the regulations researched in Getting Started, STEP 5. CHECK LOCAL CODES AND SECURE PERMITS (p. 13). Contact utilities for locations of existing infrastructure, such as underground cables, pipes, and electri- cal lines. When planning the site improvements, consider the following: • The home location should be level. • Avoid contact with large trees, steep slopes, poorly drained areas, and poten- tial flood zones. • Preserve trees and shrubs for shade, visual screens, and windbreaks. • Plan the driveway, parking areas, septic, well, other structures, and utility lines. Site Preparation. The home manufacturer has no con- trol over the site planning and installation of the home unless the manufacturer is responsible for the home's installation. Final responsi- bility for site preparation, including soil stability and frost heave control, lies with the installer. An improperly prepared site may result in the denial of a foundation - related warranty claim. V&IOZZA Fire separation. Comply with any LAHJ fire separa- tion requirements or the re- quirements NFPA 501A, 2003 edition (Chapter 6). • 14 5125/2017 10:19 AM • U • 9 I i I I_ I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I, I I LHome _ _ J Air Conditioning or Heating Equipment Supply Marriage supply Return Duct i Line Duct Duct Support Straps at upport Block 48" in. O.C. Minimum Minimum ClearanceBetween Ducts and Ground to be4in. PREPARE VENTILATION SYSTEM Prepare the whole -house ventilation system according to the ventilation system manu- facturer's instructions. Confirm that any fresh air intake ducts extend to the exterior and do not draw air from the crawlspace under the home. Do not allow any fresh air ventila- tion intake ducts to become kinked or restricted, forming a trap (Figure 89). WATER HEATER The water heater discharge and drip pan drains should have been installed in Connect Utilities (p. 83). In homes with direct -vent water heaters (that utilize gas, oil, or other combustion fuel), and where the water heater is not independently vented to the exterior through a grilled opening, provide combustion air either —1) from outside the home and through the skirting, or 2) through the roof via a double -walled flue pipe. Providing air from the outside may be accomplished with either of two methods: a. Using a combination air duct system that is listed for use with the water heater installed in the home and installed in accordance with the instructions provided, or b. Using the termination through the floor as constructed in the factory. The installation instructions for the water heater must allow this method, the termination must be free of any obstructions such as brush, and the ventilation through the skirting must provide a minimum of one square inch for every 4000 Btuh rating of the water heater or a minimum of 15 square inches. 17 10:19 Figure 88. Remote unit damper locations Figure 89. Ducts connecting exterior heating and/or cool- ing equipment to the home V&**VZZA Choosing pipe lengths. The appliance manufactur- er may designate the length of the pipe run based on the pipe diameter and the number of turns in the pipe run. Venting exhaust systems. Exhaust vents must extend to the home's exterior through skirting. Termina- tion of the dryer exhaust underneath the home can cause condensation and moisture damage to the home. Lint and dust accu- mulation can ignite, causing a fire. The exhaust system must not contain reverse slope. I 0 Z 0 h Q J J H u3 Z PREPARE HEATING SYSTEM If the home does not contain a factory installed heating appliance, install a remote heating appliance according to INSTALL REMOTE HEATING AND COOLING EQUIPMENT, p. 90. Prepare fuel -burning heating systems included with the home as follows: 1. Inspect for damage. Inspect the furnace and report any damage to the home manufacturer. 2. High altitude. If the home is located more than 2,000 feet above sea level or as indicated in the furnace manufacturer's instructions, derate gas furnaces 4% for each 1,000 feet above sea level. This work must be done by a qualified (and in some jurisdictions, licensed) technician. 3. Convert for LPG gas. If LPG gas (propane) will be used, convert the appli- ance from natural gas to LPG gas use. Conversion must be made by a quali- fied and (if required by the LAHJ) licensed technician. 4. Install intake air pipe. Consult the appliance manufacturer's instructions for maximum allowable pipe run length, requirements for air dampers, locations relative to expected snow levels (check with the LAHJ for expected snow lev- els), acceptable materials, pipe supports, and pipe termination requirements. 5. Install flue. For combustion appliances, install the flue roof cap and stack as- sembly as described in PREPARE FIREPLACES, Chimneys (p. 93). INSTALL REMOTE HEATING AND COOLING EQUIPMENT Install remote units in compliance with all heating and cooling equipment requirements in this chapter above and the following: 1. Locate connections to the home. Find the manufacturer -installed connect- ors, labels, or tags under the home indicating the required connection points for supply and return air. If connectors are not provided nor location indicated, select a supply duct location such that there are approximately equal numbers of supply registers forward and rear of the connection point. Locate the return duct in the center of the home. 2. Install ducts. Install the appropriate supply and return ducts (not provided) between the remote unit and the home (Figure 89), making connections ac- cording to the instructions for crossover ducts in Crossover Connections (p. 59). 3. Install dampers. If installing a remote cooling unit in a home with a factory in- stalled furnace, install dampers between the furnace and the home's air duct system, and between the remote unit and the home's air duct system to pre- vent warm air in heating mode from escaping to the remote cooling unit and vice versa. 4. Connect wiring. Install a thermostat containing a fan switch. Connect utilities in accordance with all manufacturer's instructions and local codes. 5. Seal penetrations. Repair or replace all floor insulation disturbed during the duct installation and seal holes in the bottom board using foam, mastic, or tape specially made for that purpose. A -coil units compatible and listed for use with the fur- nace in the home and in- stalled in accordance with the furnace manufacturer's instructions. Installing flue stacks with a hinged roof. If flue stack components are installed above the finish roof line (as is often the case with hinged roofs), an Alterna- tive Construction letter is normally required along with a follow-up inspection. Contact the factory for guidance. Venting appliances to the outside. Vent to the exteri- or of the home all combus- tion appliances except ranges and ovens. Selecting ducts. Exterior ductwork for remote units must be provided by the in- staller or HVAC contractor. Ducts must be approved for exterior installation and should be wrapped with in- sulation of at least R-4 un- der a vapor barrier with a perm rating of not greater than one. (For ENERGY STAR homes, the R-value must be at least that speci- fied on the manufacturer's ENERGY STAR Site Instal- lation Checklist —generally a minimum of R-6 or R-8.) 90 5/25/2017 10:19 AM • is • Consider future additions, such as screen rooms, porches, and awnings. • Site the home away from natural water paths. i Trim overhanging foliage considering future growth, potential storms, swaying in wind and snow/ice-weighted branches. Remove organic material such as vegetation, wood, roots, twigs, dead branches, grass, and brush from directly under the home. Remove any debris that could become termite infested from the site and surrounding area. Re- move all other debris from the home location, including roots from beneath footing loca- tions. Properly dispose of all items. Crown the site (Figure 4) away from the foundation for the first ten feet with a minimum slope of 1/2 inch per foot. Where property lines, walls, slopes, or other physical condi- tions prohibit this slope, provide the site with drains, swales, or grading to drain water away from the structure. Any fill required to grade the site should be inorganic "con- trolled fill" applied in a maximum of four inch layers, compacted between each layer to at least 90% of its maximum relative density. Direct runoff away from the site using ditches and berms (Figure 5). If the home will have skirting, start grading from two feet in from the edge of the home. A:� y Hc use y y A�_ y y A�' yyyyy y y Arrows Indicate direction of water flow. Grade the ground so that water under porches, decks, and recessed entries flows away from the home. If proper grading is not possible, use other methods such as a drain tile and automatic sump pump system to remove any water that may collect un- der the home. The home is suitable for the installation of gutters and downspouts. When gutters and downspouts are installed, direct runoff away from the home. STEP 4. DETERMINE SOIL CONDITIONS Examine the soil type under the proposed home location to make sure it is suitable for placement of a home. The design of the home's support system, including footing/pier spacing and size, will in part be determined by the bearing capacity of the soil, and if ground anchors are used, by the soil's withdrawal strength. The soil under every portion of the support system must meet the following criteria: • The soil must be firm and undisturbed (not previously excavated) or fill com- pacted to at least 90% of its maximum relative density. Uncompacted fill will settle overtime, causing the home to shift and become unlevel. Fill must not contain large debris. This too will settle over time. • The soil must not be comprised of organic clays or peat. Organic material can decay, causing settlement, and also may harbor pests that can infest the home. 7 10:19 AM YJ Site drainage. Moisture un- der the home can result in structural damage to the floor system and other parts of the home. Failure to provide adequate slope/drainage can result in moisture -related problems such as mold, mildew, and erosion. Figure 4. Crown the soil un- der the home to prevent wa- ter ponding Figure 5. Direct runoff away from the home pr Soil. Inadequate soil bearing capacity or a support sys- tem mismatched to the soil characteristics can result in excessive or differential settlement of the home, which can cause the home to go out of level, resulting in jammed doors and win- dows, cracks in finishes and ruptured plumbing connections. I-M 15 • The water table must be below the lowest level of the planned support sys- tem/foundation. A soil's bearing capacity can be greatly reduced when it is saturated with water. Note that water tables may vary with seasonal or cli- mactic conditions. Consult a geologist or the LAHJ if you are unsure of the water table level. • The soil must not be a highly expansive type. Expansive soils can expand when they become saturated with water, causing the home to shift and be- come unlevel. If soils are expansive, contact a registered engineer, or regis- tered architect to assist with the design of the foundation system. STEP 5. DETERMINE SOIL -BEARING CAPACITY AND FROST LINE The soil under a home must be capable of withstanding the loads imposed by the weight of the home, its support system and furnishings, as well as any loads imposed by wind, snow, or other climactic conditions. SOIL -BEARING CAPACITY Determine the soil -bearing capacity in pounds per square foot (psf) before designing a support system. The higher the capacity (psf), the more weight the soil can hold without unduly compressing. As the soil -bearing capacity increases, footings can be reduced in size or spaced farther apart. Use one or more of the following methods to determine the site's soil bearing capacity: • Test the soil. Hire a registered geologist, registered engineer, or registered architect to determine the soil classification and maximum allowable soil bear- ing capacity by testing the soil in accordance with generally accepted engi- neering practice. • Obtain soil records. The local office of the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Natural Resources Conservation Service (www.soils_usda.ovl and/or the LAHJ may have test results and/or soil analyses on file for the area. • Conduct a pocket penetrometer test. Use a pocket penetrometer to esti- mate allowable soil -bearing capacity as follows: 1. Select a location that will be under a footing. 2. Clear an area of a minimum of one square foot at least four inches deep or to the depth of the bottom of the planned footing. 3. Using the instructions provided with the pocket penetrometer, take at least five readings. 4. Discard the high and low readings and average the remaining readings. Round this result down to the nearest soil -bearing value shown in the right column of Table 4. 5. Confirm that the rounded result matches the soil description on Table 4. • Determine soil -bearing value by visual examination. If one of the options above is not available, the values on Table 4 can be used to establish soil - bearing capacity by visual examination. This method provides lower capacity values than the options above. Accurate soil identification typically requires special training or expertise. An engineer or building code official may be able to assist in classifying the soil found on the site. Soil bearing capacity. Sup- port systems on soils with bearing capacities less than 1,000 psf must be designed by a registered engineer or registered architect and approved by the LAHJ. Limitations of pocket pene- trometers. Pocket pene- trometers do not work on sand or gravel. Use Table 4 to determine allowable pressure for these types of soils. If you encounter a layer of gravel, test the soil under the gravel. Do not put the penetrometer on stones larger than its tip as this will provide an inaccu- rate reading. • • Prepare Appliances and Equipment This chapter provides instructions for installing and/or preparing appliances and other equipment. While the items below can be completed in any order, the last item, -CONDUCT-ELECTRICAL TEST, must be done last. INSTALL AIR CONDITIONER OR HEAT PUMP (p. 89) PREPARE HEATING SYSTEM (p. 90) Install Remote Heating and Cooling EQUIPMENT (p. 90) PREPARE VENTILATION SYSTEM (p.-91) PREPARE FUEL -BURNING APPLIANCES (p. 90) PREPARE SMOKE ALARMS PREPARE FIREPLACES (p. 93) PREPARE KITCHEN AND BATH APPLIANCES /FIXTURES (p. 95) INSTALL EXTERIOR LIGHTING (p. 96) V INSTALL CEILING FANS/LIGHTS (p. 96) V TEST ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (p. 97) INSTALL AIR CONDITIONER OR HEAT PUMP (if applicable) . • CENTRAL UNITS Install split system or unitary central air conditioners and/or heat pumps as follows: 1. Check suitability. Check the home's Comfort Cooling Certificate (may be in- cluded with the data plate) to confirm that the home is suitable for installation of central air. If so, note the air distribution system's rated duct capacity (BTU/hr), any equipment sizing guidance provided by the manufacturer and information provided to calculate the home's heat gain. 2. Select equipment. Select equipment with a rated heating capacity (BTU/hr) not exceeding the maximum indicated on the home's data plate and a rated cooling capacity sized in accordance with Chapter 28 of the 1997 ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals or ACCA Manual J, Residential Cooling Load, 8th edition. Information needed to calculate the home's heat gain can be found on the home's comfort cooling certificate. Choose equipment with a minimum cir- cuit amperage (found on the equipment rating plate) no greater than the branch circuit rating of the exterior air conditioning receptacle (indicated on the adjacent tag), if present. 3. Install A -coil. When installing a cooling A -coil in a down -flow furnace that in- corporates a fresh air intake duct, position the duct in the furnace cavity ac- cording to the furnace manufacturers instructions. EVAPORATIVE COOLERS Evaporative Coolers must be listed or certified by a nationally recognized testing agen- cy for the application for which the unit is intended and installed in accordance with the terms of its listing or the equipment manufacturer's instructions, whichever is more re- strictive. %r&10ZZ Use listed appliances. All applicable appliances must be listed or certified by a nationally recognized test- ing agency for the applica- tion for which the unit is in- tended and installed in ac- cordance with the terms of its listing or certification. Properly sizing equipment. Oversized cooling equipment can lower energy efficiency, reduce comfort, shorten equipment life, and may cause moisture problems in the home (including potentially damaging the home's structure). Sizing guidance is provided by the Manufactured Housing Research Alliance Cooling Equipment Sizing Guidelines available at www.mhra ome.ora. •16 5/25(2017 10:19 AM 5125/2017 10:19 AM 89 F rn z :: pors. If the tank is fixed to the home, provide for filling and draining from the outside. • Insulate interior tanks from the structural members of the home. Provide tanks so installed with an outside fill and vent pipe and an approved liquid level gauge • Install tanks that feed vaporizing type oil furnaces so that oil flows by gravity. To achieve efficient gravity flow, make sure that the bottom of the tank is at least 18 inches above the furnace oil control level. • Tanks for gun type oil furnaces (these furnaces include a fuel pump) may be installed above or below ground. OIL SYSTEM TESTING Before operating the system, fill the tank to capacity with the fuel to be burned and vis- ually check all joints in the system for leakage. Replace (do not repair) parts that leak. TABLE 4. SOIL -BEARING CAPACITY BY SOIL TYPE Rock or hard pan (class 1) � " S �)Lgravel and gravel very denseandLor cementedsands— course gravel/cobbles; preloaded silts, clays and coral (class 2) Sand, silty sand, clayey sand `silty gravel medium dense course. sands; sandy gravel very stiff silt sand clays (class 3) Clay, sandy clay, silty clay, clayey silt (classes 4A and 4121) Uncompacted fill,_peat, organic clays (class 5)^` V Vote to table: No allowances made for overburden pressure, embf 1 50o 1,000 ment depth, water height, or settlement problems. • Use default capacity. Use an allowable pressure of 1,500 psf, unless site - specific information requires the use of lower values based on soil classifica- tion and type according to Table 4. Note that soil types may vary across a home site. In this case, the soil with the lowest bearing capacity should be assumed when designing the support system. Keep a rec- ord of the soil -bearing capacity value; it will be used later to design the home's support system. FROST LINE In climates subject to ground freezing, consult the LAHJ, a registered engineer, or reg- istered architect to determine the depth of the frost line. Figure 6 may be used as a guideline when there is no specific local determination. Keep a record of the frost depth; it will be used later to design the home's support system. 01 I I I l � ' t 0:19 AM 5/25/2017 1 3' STEP 6. DETERMINE GROUND ANCHOR HOLDING CAPACITY When using auger -type ground anchors to tie down the home, first, use a torque probe to determine the anchor -holding strength of the soil on the site. Figure 6. Average frost pen- etration depth (in feet) I Z Torque Probe. Before using the torque probe, check p with the utility companies Z for the location of under- E ground cables or pipes to > avoid contact with the probe shaft. CC r• 17 im a 3. Pressurize system. Using an air compressor, pressurize the system with compressed air to three psi and isolate the pressure source from the system. 4. Monitor pressure. Monitor the pressure for at least 10 minutes. 5. Check for leaks. If pressure drops below three psi, check for leaks by apply- ing a non -corrosive, ammonia -free gas -leak detection fluid to the joints at all valves, appliance connections, and crossover connections (do not use dish washing detergents, soap, or other household chemicals). If bubbles form, tighten the connection and recheck. 6. Repair leaks. If leaks persist, replace defective pipes or fittings with sound material and retest. 7. Release pressure. Release pressure and open all appliance shut-off valves. 8. Rinse connections. Thoroughly rinse all tested connections with water to remove leak detection fluid. Entire system test (with appliances) 1. Close appliances. Close all gas equipment controls and pilot light valves ac- cording to the individual gas equipment manufacturer's instructions. 2. Open valves. Assure that gas shut-off valves for all gas equipment are in the open position. 3. Attach gauge. Attach to the home's gas inlet a pressure gauge calibrated in ounces. 4. Pressurize system. Pressurize the system with compressed air to six to eight ounces (3/8 to 1/2 psi, or 10 to 14 inches of water column). 5. Check for leaks. Check for leaks as described above in step 4 of the Piping only test. Replace defective pipes or fittings with sound material and re -test. 6. Rinse connections. Thoroughly rinse all tested connections with water to remove leak detection fluid. GAS APPLIANCE START-UP Open the shut-off valve for each appliance and adjust the burners according to the ap- pliance manufacturer's instructions. Verify that the furnace and water heater thermo- stats are operating properly and set them to the desired temperatures. STEP 4. CONNECT OIL SERVICE Homes that are equipped with oil burning furnaces must have oil supply piping installed and tested on site by a qualified professional in accordance with NFPA 31, Standard for the Installation of Oil Burning Equipment, 2001 or the requirements of the LAHJ, whichever is more stringent. The home manufacturer does not supply oil piping or tanks. OIL CONNECTION Consult the furnace manufacturer's instructions for proper pipe -sizing and installation procedures. Where piping is run through the bottom of the home, ensure all holes in the bottom board are sealed tight with foam, mastic, and/or tape specially made for that purpose and made rodent proof. When equipping the home with an oil storage tank, comply with the following: • Install the pipe with a gradual slope toward the fill end or drain plug (if so equipped) to facilitate pumping or draining of water and sludge. • Provide a readily accessible approved manual shut-off valve at the outlet, in- stalled to close against the supply. • Equip the tank with an approved oil filter or strainer located downstream from the tank shut-off valve. Use a filter or strainer containing a sump with a drain to trap water. • Equip under ground tanks with a filler neck extending one foot above grade and a minimum 1-1/4 inch diameter vent pipe extending at least two feet above grade. • Locate the tank to be accessible for service and inspection, and safe from fire and other hazards.lf the tank is located inside a compartment of the home, provide ventilation at the bottom of the compartment to permit diffusion of va- 5/25l2017 10:19 AM 'I ! Z Testing oil tanks. All oil storage tank and piping in- stallations and tests must meet all applicable local regulations and should be made only by experienced, qualified personnel. 87 H Z water, disconnect the air supply and close the water inlet valve. 9. Pour anti -freeze. Pour an antifreeze solution into all drain traps, including sinks, tubs, and toilets. Be sure that the antifreeze is safe for the fixtures and P-traps. STEP 3. CONNECT GAS SERVICE CONNECTION If the home uses natural or liquid petroleum gas (LPG, also known as propane) for wa- ter or space heating, cooking or other appliances, follow the procedure described be- low: 1. Inspect vents. Assure that all exhaust vents on gas -fired equipment are se- curely connected and that roof jacks and stacks have not come loose during transit and they are properly installed. 2. Review appliance instructions. Review each appliance manufacturer's in- structions before the home is connected to the gas supply. Most gas appli- ances are typically configured to operate on natural gas. If the gas supply will be LPG, consult the appliance manufacturer's instructions to determine what changes need to be made. For homes located above 2,000 feet, appliances may require a different orifice. 3. Remove cap. Remove the protective cap from home inlet pipe and install a full flow shut-off valve at the supply inlet (Figure 87). 4. Install regulator. The gas piping system is designed for a pressure that is at least seven inches of water column (4 oz. per sq in or 0.25 psi) but not more than 14 inches of water column (8 oz. per sq in or 0.5 psi). If gas from any supply source exceeds, or could exceed this pressure, install a regulator if re- quired by the LAHJ. 5. Connect supply. Using matching threaded fittings, connect the gas supply to the inlet side of the shut-off valve. 6. Close valves. Close all valves at appliances prior to opening the main supply valve. Full Flow Shutaff Valve Required (Supplied By Others) T Source of Gas Union (Supplied By Others) TESTING Test the gas piping system in the following two ways: 1) piping only and 2) entire sys- tem. Consult with the LAHJ for any additional testing or start-up requirements. Before testing is begun, the temperature of the ambient air and the piping should be approximately the same. Conduct the tests when and where air temperatures will re- main constant. Piping only test (all appliances isolated) 1. Isolate appliances. Isolate all appliances from the system by closing all ap- pliance shut-off valves. 2. Attach gauge. Attach to the home's gas inlet a mercury manometer or slope gauge calibrated in increments of not more than 1/10 lb. Z� &'0 Installing gas lines. Only qualified professionals may connect and test gas ser- vice. Derated fuel. Gas utilities in high altitude areas may have already compensated the fuel to provide a clean burn at high altitudes. If the fuel has been derated, do not change the orifice for the appliances. Check with the local gas utility for spe- cific directions. Figure 87. Gas service con- nection � A Fill gas water heaters. Be- fore lighting the pilot on a gas powered water heater, fill the tank with water. Fail- ure to do so could damage the water heater. • • 86 5/25/2017 10:19 AM • Install Footings This chapter provides instructions for the design and construction of individual footings that transfer the load from a single _.:.._ a.. 1 ._ —_....—A n L....a:.... --A ..:... a......a L.... /.1:..... ........J :.. Q..a {L.. U---% :.. __ _ "—..___-a u n ra:_ carry STEP 1. DESIGN POINT LOAD SUPPORTS (p. 19) footings). step 2. DESIGN FRAME SUPPORTS (Homes Without.PerimeterBlocking) (p. 21) If STEP 3 DESIGN FRAME AND PERIMETER SUPPORTS (Horses With Perimeter Blocking) (p.23) STEP 4;•SELECT FOOTING MATERIALS (p. 25) STEP 5. SIZE FOOTINGS (p. 25) STEP 8. INSTALL FOOTINGS (p. 29) STEP 1. DESIGN POINT LOAD SUPPORTS All homes will need supports, and therefore footings, under the frame, marriage line (for multi -section homes), exterior wall openings and other heavy point loads. The home manufacturer may have provided a blocking diagram (or tags, labels, paint or other markings under the home) indicating the required locations and/or loads for perimeter, marriage line and/or frame supports specifically for this home. If so, the dia- gram or tags take precedence over the directions provided in this manual. Create a sketch of the home that includes the exterior walls, the frame I -beams and the marriage line(s), if a multi -section home. The sketch will be used in this chapter to lo- cate each support, and note the size of the corresponding footing. Figure 7 is an ex- ample of such a support plan. Shearwall Pier Perimeter _ 'ame Wall Piers iers As the location and load for each support is determined, note it on the sketch. When selecting locations for supports, keep in mind that increasing the spacing between Figure 7. Example of sup- port plan 19 • supports will increase the load on that support and the size of the required footing. DETERMINE LOCATIONS Point loads exist where a bearing/structural weight is concentrated and transferred to the foundation at a specific point. Locate a support under each point load, including the following examples: • Both sides of sidewall exterior doors, patio doors and sliding glass doors (blocking is not required at exterior doors on non -bearing end walls). • Multiple window openings at both sides of each opening. • Other sidewall openings 48" or greater in width. • Locations where through -the -rim crossover ducts penetrate the rim joist at the marriage line (unless otherwise noted in supplemental documents provided with the home or unless the home is constructed with a perimeter frame system). • Marriage line columns. • Load -bearing porch posts. • Labeled G-2 strap locations (for shearwalls). • Under heavy (400 Ibs or greater) items, such as heavy furniture, waterbeds, fireplaces and large fish tanks located outboard of the home's main I -beams. Mark the required point load support locations on the sketch. Supports are not required where the manufacturer has reinforced the floor (such as with additional outriggers or floor joists) and so noted in the documentation provided with the home. Figure 8 identifies typical point load support locations. Rh..—.11 Pior 'ame Figure 8. Typical point -load support locations • F-• Q J J F_ rn Z Wall Piers CALCULATE LOADS Consult the specific plans for the home being installed. The location of the mating line piers is shown on the floor plan. The exact loads for any mating line piers are shown on the specification tables for that floor plan. 20 5/25/2017 10:19 AM C] is 0. 7. Insulate. In areas subject to freezing temperatures, protect with insulation or heat tape pipes, valves and pressure reducers that are exposed to the out- doors; and pipes in water heater compartments with non -insulated doors. Connect heat tape to the electrical outlet under the home near the water sup- ply inlet. TESTING After connecting the water lines check the water system for leaks using one of the pro- cedures described below. Before testing, close all water faucets, spigots, and toilet - tank float valves. Hydrostatic (preferred): 1. Bypass water heater. Bypass the hot water heater by disconnecting the hot outlet and cold inlet water lines from the water heater and joining them to- gether. This will protect the hot water tank from damage and protect those in- volved in the test from possible injury. 2. Pressurize system. Connect a hydrostatic pump, valve, and gauge to the lo- cation shown in Figure 85. Pressurize the system with water at 100 psi, and then isolate it from the pressure source. Bleed all air from the highest and far- thest points in the system. 3. Hold pressure. Monitor the pressure for at least 15 minutes. 4. Fix leaks. If the pressure drops below 100 psi, locate and correct any leaks by cutting out and discarding bad pipe sections or joints and installing new pipe or joints with couplings. 5. Repeat. Repeat the test until all leaks have been eliminated. Pneumatic: 1. Bypass water heater. Bypass the hot water heater by disconnecting the hot outlet and cold inlet water lines from the water heater and joining them to- gether. This will protect the hot water tank from damage and protect those in- volved in the test from possible injury. 2. Pressurize system. Connect an air pump and pressure gauge to the water inlet, pressurize the system to 100 psi and isolate the pressure source from the system. 3. Hold pressure. Monitor the pressure for least 15 minutes. If the pressure drops below 100 psi, locate any leaks by applying soapy water to the connec- tions and looking for bubbles. 4. Fix leaks. Correct any leaks by cutting out and discarding bad pipe sections or joints and installing new pipe or joints with couplings. 5. Retest. Repeat the procedure until all leaks have been eliminated. 6. Restore connections. Reconnect the water heater and the water supply. FREEZE PROTECTION FOR UNOCCUPIED HOMES If the home is to be left unheated in cold weather, protect water lines from freezing as follows: 1. Disconnect supply. Turn off the water supply at the main water supply shut- off valve and disconnect the water supply inlet. 2. Drain water heater. Turn off the water heater; if necessary, attach a hose to the drain valve to direct water away from under the home, open the drain valve and drain the tank completely. 3. Drain faucets. Open all faucets throughout the home (including the laundry area if plumbed, and any exterior faucets) and let them drain completely. 4. Drain toilets. Flush toilets and drain water tanks completely. 5. Close faucets. Close all water faucets with the exception of one. 6. Connect compressor. Connect a maximum of 30 psi air supply to the water inlet connection using a low pressure compressor. 7. Open faucets. With the air supply on the system, open one faucet at a time throughout the home. 8. Disconnect compressor. After the entire system has been drained of all 17 10:1 V&* ZZ Selecting heat tape. Use only pipe -heating cable (tape) listed for manufac- tured homes and install it in accordance with the cable (tape) manufacturer instal- lation instructions. Testing water lines. Only use pneumatic (air) testing when hydrostatic testing is not practical. Air under pressure is explosive. Ex- ercise extreme caution and notify all site personnel of the test. Wear protective eyewear and take precau- tions to prevent impact damage to the system while the test is in progress. Do not pneumatically test CPVC systems. Pneumati- cally test Flow Guard Gold systems only at low pres- sure levels (20 psi or less). Pressurizing water lines. When pressurizing the wa- ter system, connect the pump to a location above a closed shut-off valve so as not to introduce pressure into the municipal water supply. I:fr1 Water Pipe Optional Hose E (Not Supplied) Connect To T Here For Water System Test Locate Water Riser Underneath or — Adjacent to Home Service Connection (Not Supplied) Mandatory Shut -Off Valve (Not Supplied) 5. Install water heater discharge drain. Inspect the drain opening on the water heater to ensure that it is clear of any obstruction and directed downward: If the home is to be installed on a basement or enclosed crawlspace, a drain pipe connecting the discharge from the water heater temperature and pres- sure relief valve may be installed to the outside or to a sump. 6. Install water heater drip pan drain. Assure that the drain for the water heat- er drip pan does not terminate under the home. Using the materials provided and the accompanying instructions run a drain line from the water heater drip pan through the wall or floor to the exterior of the crawl space. Terminate the line between six and 24 inches above grade. (Figure 86). Make the termina- tion point rodent proof. Figure 85. Water system a connection Using check valves. Install a check valve on the water inlet to prevent water system drainage in the event of a loss of water pressure from the source. Such pressure loss could cause the water heater to drain, exposing the heating elements of electric water heaters caus- ing them to fail. Figure 86. Water heater drip pan and drain 84 5/25/2017 10:19 AM i STEP 2. DESIGN FRAME SUPPORTS (Homes Without Perimeter Blocking) DETERMINE LOCATIONS �A All homes require regularly spaced supports along all main frame I -beams. Select spacing between supports and sketch them on the support plan. Keep in mind that Spacing frame supports. frame supports under homes with 8" deep I -beams may be no more than eight feet There must be a support apart. Those under homes with 10" or 12" deep I -beams may be no more than 10 feet located near the end of apart. Generally, greater distances between supports will require larger footings. each I-beam such that Figure 9 shows typical frame support locations. there is no more than 12 inches of beam past the edge of the support. Exception: A support may be located 24 inches max- imum from the end of the (- beam for 10 and 12 wides if the next footing is located 3'-0" closer than specified in the tables (see Figure 10) . 7 10:19 AM Figure 9. Typical support came locations for homes not requiring regularly spaced perimeter supports ers Wall Piers 21 _ I I I -- ■------------------------ ------- TIAV— I I I I I O.C. I 2'-0" I I _ Typ.O.C. Spacing I �> f Spacing l Minus 3'-0" I I --- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ----- I I I CALCULATE LOADS Use Table 5 to determine the loads on frame supports. Find the column with the ap- propriate roof load zone and section width. Find the row corresponding to the selected support spacing. The number in the intersecting cell is the load. Loads on all frame supports can be assumed to be equal if support spacing is equal. However, if different support spacings are used, then each support with a different spacing should be calculated separately. Use Table 6 to determine the loads on porch post piers. Find the column with the ap- propriate section width. Find the row corresponding to the roof load and porch post spacing. The number in the intersecting cell is the load. Note the location and load required of each support on the sketch. TABLE 5. LOAD ON FRAME SUPPORTS FOR HOMES NOT Figure 10. End of beam support. piering exception Use exterior equipment and enclosures listed as weatherproof and entrance conductors listed for wet locations. - — The grounding bar may -be -installed separate from the neutralbarfor purpos- es of testing the electrical system. • The grounding bar may be isolated during the electrical check and re- attached, after the tests are completed. • Check with the local electrical utility to verify meter base requirements and lo- cations and distances for the main panel and meter box. • The field installed meter base enclosure must be installed in accordance with its listing. Fasten securely to exterior wall studs and provide for a weather - tight seal. • Check the local code for any requirements regarding the location of the meter base. • Final testing of the electrical system should not be performed until all appli- ances are connected. See Prepare Appliances and Equipment (p. 89) for electrical system test procedures. NG PERIMETER BLOCKING Roof load zone and max. section width South 1 • I • 1 1 ft 12ft 14 ft 15ft 16 ft 18 ft 10 1 2100 2400 3 2700 ' 2900 3000 3200 CL ® 42600 2900 3300 ,'i 36 0 3700 �'3900 _ Perimeter Piering Perimeter Piering 3100 3400 3900 4200 4300 4700 Required for 30 psf Required for 40 psf — z 400_LL, '.4500 5100 b500 5600 6100 (See Table 7) (See Table 7) ... _ .,...,. ; ... 1 ft 4900 5500 6300 1 6800 7000 7500 Eave width is 12" maximum for all home widths. TABLE 6: SUPPORT LOADS ON PORCH POSTS PA 5; 25/2017 10:19 AM 0 is Exterior Wall Meter Encbsure Meter—� Airspace Between Meter Enclosure And Exterior Wal STEP 2. CONNECT WATER SERVICE CONNECTION To connect the home's water system to the water source, identify the water inlet locat- ed under the home (usually below the water heater compartment or utility room) and follow the procedure described below (refer to Figure 85): 1. Flush pipe. Flush field -installed water piping free of all debris prior to connec- tion to the home's water inlet. 2. Clean threads. Ensure that pipe threads are clean. 3. Install pressure -reducing valve. If the local water supply exceeds 80 psi in- stall a pressure -reducing valve. 4. Connect valve. Install a main shut-off valve between the water supply and the inlet on the home. Locate the riser for the shutoff valve underneath or ad- jacent to the home. Select a full flow gate or ball shutoff valve, or equivalent valve. To prevent the possibility of fresh water contamination install an anti - siphon valve on all field installed exterior faucets. Figure 84. Meter base clear- ances. Selecting heat tape. Use only pipe -heating cable (tape) listed for manufac- tured homes and install it in accordance with the cable (tape) manufacturer's in- stallation instructions. Maximum water pressure. The water system for the home was designed for a maximum inlet pressure of 80 psi. mg Z O rn Z Ground Bus Bar Service Entry Figure 82. Electrical feeder Main Panel (May Be Above Or Below Ground) connection when meter has Enclosure a disconnect installed (typi- 2' ConduitTo cally more than 6 feet from Meter By Utility Meterbase Company Ground From Meter Enclosure Disconnect Bonding Strap 2' Conduit Not Installed Disconnect Grounding Lug �2"Conduit (Fused) To Chassis To Main To Grounding Rod Metallic Conduit FittingsTo Be Effectively Grounded To To Equipment Ground Black -'HOT' ToA GrB Red -'HOT" To A Or B White To Neutral Bus Bar Ground To Equipment Ground Main Panel Service Entry Endo.. (Above Or Below Ground) f— 2' Conduit To Neutral service Head Equipment Bus Bar Ground Bus Bar M eteray Utility Company Meter Endosure —1 u Bonding slap Installed By M anufedurer Grounding Lug 2'Conduil To Chassis To Grounding Rod To Main Metallic Cond ud Or FittingsTo Be Effectively Gmunded To Equipment Ground Blerk-'HOTTo AOrO Red -'HOT To A OrB White To Neutral Bus Bar In all cases, a grounding electrode conductor and a ground wire must be installed ac- cording to the following specifications: 1. Grounding wire to be per Table 32 provided by the manufacturer. If manufac- turer provides a minimum 1/2 inch EMT or conduit raceway, the #6 minimum bare copper wire is provided by the retailer for installation. 2. The clamp connecting the grounding electrode conductor to the electrode shall be suitable for direct burial and located flush or below ground level. 3. Use a listed 5/8 inch diameter by eight foot long iron electrode or nonferrous rod of at least 1/2 inch diameter by eight feet long for grounding (larger sizes may be required by the LAHJ due to soil impedance). 4. Drive the electrode to a depth of not less than eight feet so that at least eight feet of the electrode is in contact with the soil. 5. When rock is encountered, the electrode may be driven at an angle not to ex- ceed 45 degrees from vertical or buried in a trench that is at least 2-1/2 feet deep. FIELD INSTALLED METER BASE When a meter base is installed in the field, Figure 84 and the following requirements must be adhered to: • Install the meter base according to the manufacturer's instructions. • Use straps to support any conduit. Do not use the meter base equipment for Figure 83. Meter base wiring when there is no separate disconnect installed (typically within 6 feet of service elec- tric panel). • •'................:...... .................. ..-.:.._.................. ......... ..........................._-........................................................._.....-.................................._.........._......................................,................._:....:........—.-.................................. L. 1800 _2100^ . . _ 2300 y 2400 . ..� w., .2800 • 82 5/25/2017 10:19 AM , iii I` .i, ... �� • f I '• • • • • DETERMINE LOCATIONS Depending on design and location, some homes require regularly spaced perimeter supports along all of the sidewalls and marriage walls in addition to frame supports. This will be indicated on the data plate and/or documents included with the home. To minimize the number of required perimeter supports, space them evenly between point load supports as shown in Figure 11. These figures identify typical support loca- tions for homes requiring perimeter supports. Frame e Wall Piers Piers CALCULATE LOADS Use Table 7 to determine the loads on frame and perimeter supports for homes requir- ing perimeter blocking. Find the column with the appropriate roof load (Table 3) and r section width. Find the group of rows corresponding to the selected support spacing. The values in the intersecting cells are the loads for the frame, perimeter, and marriage line supports respectively. Loads on supports of a given type (frame, perimeter, or marriage) can be assumed to be equal if support spacing is equal. However, if different support spacings are used then each support with a different spacing should be calculated separately. • v&r**IVZZA Spacing frame supports. There must be a support located near the end of each I-beam such that there is no more than 12 inches of beam past the edge of the support. Exception: A support may be located 24 inches max- imum from the end of the (- beam for 10 and 12 wides if the next footing is located T-0" closer than specified in the tables (see Figure 10) Figure 11. Typical support locations for homes requiring perimeter supports Z CA r 23 Z O Q t— U) Z IE Use Table 6 to determine the loads on porch post piers. Find the column with the ap- propriate section width. Find the row corresponding to the roof load and porch post spacing. The number in the intersecting cell is the load. Note the location and load required of each support on the sketch. TABLE 7. LOAD ON FRAME AND PERIMETER SUPPORTS FOR HOMES REQUIRING PERIMETER BLOCKING 1200 1300 11350 1400 1 1450 11500 1200 1300 1 1350 1400 i 1450 1 1500 130.0 0 1700' ; 1800 ' 9900� 2000° ;1500 i 1700�j '2000 I`.2100 22Q0 H 2400 .. . . w t. _ . s.. ... _ .. ,.. See Floor Plan instead See Floor Plan instead 1400� 1500 1700'. 1700 1800 1900 1400 15©0 1700 [700 18l)0 19 0' 50 � —s�� • .. ._. _�_ 1500 1700 2000 2200 1 2200 2400 1800 2100 2400 12600 2700 2900 ��; "77 See Floo(Plan instead _ _ See.Floor Pl'an'mstead _ 1700 1800 1900 1 2000� 2000 1 2100 y 1700 1800 1900 i 2000 2000 2100 See Floor Plan instead See Floor Plan instead 2200 1 2600 1 3000 1 3300 1 3400 1 3700 1 2700 1 3100 3600 1 4000 1 4100 1 4500 2500 1 2700 1 3000 3100 1 3200 1 3400 2500 1 2700 3000 1 3100 1 3200 ' 3400 _.i mnn,l.,z4nn vnn_ „annn R dann l aann vznn gnnn i aann e6nna.: anon , Ginn See Floor Plan instead 1200 1300 1 1350 1400 1 1450 1500 See Floor Plan instead 2100 2400 i 2800 1 3000 3100 3400 _ See Floor Plan instead_ 1700 i 1800 19002000 2000 2100 See Floor Plan instead 3200 3700 1 4200 i 4600 14800 5200 _ S F oor Plan _instead�v� 2500 Hl 2700 € 3000 1 3100 3200 / 3400 See Floor Plan instead Eave width is 12" maximum for all section widths (Based on Table 2 to 3285.303) See Floor Plan instead 17 10:1 0 • • FEEDER CONNECTIONS Feeder connections are made from above or from below the home as follows: From above — mast weatherhead feeder The routing, connection, and support of the service drop must meet local codes. Homes equipped this way contain all necessary conduits to the electrical distribution panel. However, the feeder conductors (not provided with the home) are installed on site. If the masthead is located above the roof overhang, allow a minimum clearance of eight feet above all roof points that the conductors pass over. There are two exceptions to this rule: (1) The vertical clearance may be reduced to three feet if the roof has a minimum slope of 4 in 12; and (2) The vertical clearance may be reduced to 18 inches if no more than four feet of service -drop conductors pass above the roof overhang, and if they terminate at a through -the -roof raceway or approved support. A minimum clear- ance must also be provided from the final grade to the service -drop conductors. This measurement may vary from 10 feet to 18 feet, depending on the types of traffic antici- pated below the service drop (refer to the NEC). Unless impractical, locate service heads above the point of attachment of the service -drop conductors and make them rain -tight. If individual conductors do not extend downward, form drip loops. From below — underside junction box feeder A section of conduit is factory installed through the floor cavity. Connect to that conduit with approved fittings and conduit (not provided with the home) to the point where the service entrance cable enters the crawl space. Install properly -sized service entrance conductors from the main power supply to the panel board. Depending on the location of the main panel board inside the home, or the point at which the service entrance conductors enter the crawl space, a separate service disconnect may be required. Re- fer to Table 32 for the conductor and junction box requirements. The installer must provide the supply connection including the feeder conductors, junction box, and con- duit connectors. Protect conductors emerging from the ground from a minimum of 18 inches below grade to eight feet above grade, or to the point of entrance to the home. The distance measured from the top surface of a buried cable, conduit, or raceway to the finished grade must meet the minimum burial requirements outlined in the NEC. Use a moisture -proof bushing at the end of the conduit from which the buried cable emerges. GROUNDING The home must be properly grounded to protect the occupants. The only safe and ap- proved method of grounding the home is through an electrically -isolated grounding bar in the manufactured home distribution panel board. This grounds all non -current - carrying metal parts to the electrical system in the home at a single point. Each neutral conductor must be connected to the system grounding conductor on the supply side of the main disconnect in accordance with Articles 250.24, 250.26, and 250.28 of the National Electrical Code, NFPA No. 70-2005. Where the meter base has a disconnect (typically when the meter is more than 6 feet from the service electric panel, although this may vary by LAHJ), the ground and neu- tral should be bonded at that disconnect and then grounded to the driven earth ground. Four wires will leave the service electric panel to the disconnect. Three wires will enter the disconnect from the meter base (refer to Figure 82). Where there is no disconnect on the meter base or between the meter base and ser- vice electric panel (typically when the meter is within 6 feet from the service electric panel, although this may vary by LAHJ), the main circuit breaker in the service electric panel becomes the first disconnect. In this case, the neutral and ground are bonded in the service electric panel and connected to the driven earth ground from the service electric panel. Three wires lead between the meter base and the service electric panel (refer to Figure 83). 5125I2017 Power supply. A large enough power supply must be available at the site. An inadequate power supply may result in improper op- eration of and possible damage to motors and ap- pliances. It may also in- crease electricity costs. Grounding the electrical system. Do not provide electrical power until the grounding electrode is in- stalled and connected. When the meter base is not on the house never use the neutral conductor of the feeder cable as a ground wire. Q ti U) Z Connect Utilities This chapter contains procedures and requirements for the connection and testing of utility hook-ups. Responsibility for making utility connections varies by location. Consult the LAHJ and the utility before connecting the home to any utilities. STEP 1. CONNECT ELECTRICAL SERVICE (p. 80) STEP 2. CONNECT WATER SERVICE (p. 83) STEP 3. CONNECT GAS SERVICE (p. 86) V STEP 4. CONNECT OIL SERVICE (p. 87) , STEP 1. CONNECT ELECTRICAL SERVICE The home is designed for connection to an electrical wiring system rated at 120/240 volt AC. All electrical field work must be done by a licensed electrician or other person approved by the LAHJ. FEEDER WIRE AND EQUIPMENT SIZES The current rating (in amperes) of the home can be found on the tag located on the outside next to the feeder or service entrance, and on the electrical distribution panel. Using this information, determine the required feeder wire size from Table 32. These sizes are based on an ambient temperature of 86 degrees Fahrenheit and do not take voltage drop into consideration. Acceptable conductor types are: RHH, RHW, RHW-2, THHN, THHW, THW, THW2, THWN, THWN-2, XHHW, XHHW-2, SE, USE, and USE-2. TABLE 32. ELECTRICAL FEEDER WIRE AND EQUIPMENT SIZES FOR COP- PER, ALUMINUM OR COPPER CLAD ALUMINUM CONDUCTORS ALL WIRE SIZES ARE AWG UNLESS NOTED Size DiameterMinimum Conduit ... MkGround- Concluc- Raceway#8 50 35 i NA 1 #4 #8 70 100 10x10x41 1/4 #4 150 115 10x12x4 1-1/2 #1 i #2 #6 ( #6 -- 200 140 1,0x16x4 , . 2/0 #6#4 225^ 158 10x16x4 2 3/0 2/0 ( #4 #4 00 280 10x24x4 3 `e kcmil i 400 kcmil ,300 50 35 NA 1-1/4 Conductors (A]) _ #4 I� #4 #8 ( #6 100��70 150 10z10x4 �115 10x12x4 1-1/2n 2 # r`-� : �, #2 #6 #6 " 1 � � 2/0 ( 2/0 #4 #4 L200 ; 140 AN16x4 �158 2 4/0 4/0 #4 #2 225 10x16x4 2 1/2 250 kcmtl i 250 kcmil #2 ( #2 =400 ?4 280 . 10x24x4 3 1/2_ l:) kcm 600 kcmil V&FAZZA Special precautions when installing electrical ser- vice. Installation of the electric power to the home can cause exposure to live electrical circuits. Exposure to live electrical circuits or improper grounding of the conductor in the panel board may result in severe shock or possible electro- cution. A qualified installer must make the connections for the electric power. .7 80 5/25!2017 10:19 AM Is • STEP 4. SELECT FOOTING MATERIAL Select one of the products and materials from Table 8 for the footings. TABLE 8. FOOTING MATERIALS Material Appropriate Use --Specification Minimum 6" thick poured -in -place concrete pads, slabs, or ribbons with at least a 28 Poured concrete All soil types day compressive strength of 3,000 psi. Cast -in -place concrete footings may also require reinforcing steel based on acceptable engineering practice, the design loads, and site specific soil conditions. �' ' M�mmun 4' thick nommal precast concrete pacts meeting'or ezceetlmg ASTM C Pre cast concrete All soil types 90-02a, Standard Specifcaticn,for Load Beafing,Conerete Masonry Units, without,' reinforcement, with at least a=2B day compressi_vestrength of_2,5013 psi; Use in accordance with the pad manufacturers instructions. Must be certified for ABS plastic Stable soils use in the soil classification at the site, listed and labeled for the required load ca- pacity. a _ m ~', .., Nominal 2 mch thick wootl z 30 inazimum lengfh, pressure treated�with a"water � Pressure -treated Lumber Stable sails borne preservative; in accordance with AWPAQStandard U1 04 for tJse Category 48 _ ground contact applications -..,,Cut ends of pressureaeated lumber must be field- ° treated inaccordance with A+NPA Standard`M4 02 ; Single layer of nominal 3/4 inch thick maximum 16 inch x 16 inch, or two layers of 3/4 inch thick for sizes greater than 16 inch x 16 inch. Rated exposure 1 or exterior Pressure -treated Plywood Stable soils sheathing in accordance with PS1-95, Construction and Industrial Plywood. Pres- sure -treated in accordance with AWPA Standard U1-04 for Use Category 413 ground contact applications. Propnetary systems Consult systerrlinanu- F 7 � _ Consult ysfem'manufacturer_ ifiacturer = a -, x STEP 5. SIZE FOOTINGS Once the load on the footing and the soil -bearing capacity are known, calculate the size of each footing as follows: 1. From Table 9 determine if the pier is to be of single -stack blocks (8 inch x16 inch) or double -stack blocks (16 inch x 16 inch) pier. 2. Locate the group of rows in Table 10 with the soil -bearing capacity deter- mined in Prepare the Site, STEP 5. DETERMINE SOIL -BEARING CAPACI- TY AND FROST LINE (p. 16). Use the next lowest value if the exact value does not appear. 3. Read across the table to determine the minimum required footing area and the minimum footing thickness for the corresponding footing type (single or double -stacked blocks). 4. The required footing size may be changed by selecting another support spac- ing (Table 5 and Table 7). [I%L4L1u1 PF rZ Frost protection. When se- lecting footing materials, bear in mind the need for frost protection. Not all foot- ing materials are suitable for freezing climates. Z W D r D O Z ZZ A Z c r 410 7 26 Main Beam I Bracket Pier End Wall Tie -Down Strap 45 - 50 Degrees � _III —III —III —III —III —III —III —I I I I —III — III — III —III —II Anchor with Stabilizer Ple SIDEWALL VERTICAL ANCHORS Homes built for Wind Zone II and III have factory -installed brackets along the sidewall. Attach the strap to the bracket as shown in Figure 81. I lle-dcvrn I bracket IIt d9t Te- tvm strap ��. — Floor rim plate must pass through Tie -dawn � � cc tap sw In i bracket p bracket, ^� Approved sisal and — crierp(s) W0 lbs. min. } Open end— r working loads, '— of strap Vertical Vertical — t e,dahn strap • • Frame F' anchor Vertical strap Tle-dGwn V p � strap t Ground ...__. r anchor STEP 6. TIGHTEN AND ADJUST STRAPS After all anchors have been installed and pre -tensioned, recheck all anchor straps to assure that they are tight and that the anchor shafts have remained in contact with the stabilizer plates. Do not over -tension straps. ID 9/28120151 Figure 80. End wall frame anchor attachment method Figure 81. Connecting Sidewall Vertical Strap to Tie -down Bracket I 79 3 Insert the tension boltinwhe p g 4O Place the strap through the sbtted Using al5/16"socket or open end O anchor head and loosely attach shank of the tension boltand bend wrench, rotate clockwise, wrapping the hex nut up to 90°. the strap around thetersion bolt OOnce tensioned to the point that Once fully tensioned, align the If approved by the manufacturer, counterclockwise resistance square neck of the boltwilhthe double head anchors may be used appears, use a 519"openend square recess in theanchorhead for both diagonal andvertical wrench to hold the square neck and tighten the hex nut. This will tie -down strap tensioning. Tension while repositioning the 15/16" draw the two togetherand lock the the diagonal tie -down strap first tensioning wrench to continue system into final position. Follow Steps 3 through 7 to install tensioning. Repeat as required. straps to anchorhead. 3. Pretension anchor. For anchors with stabilizer plates, pretension the anchor by pulling it up to the stabilizer plate using the strap and take-up bolt to move the anchor head. Continue pulling the strap until the plate moves a small amount (about 1/2 inch). This is called packing the plate and it will yield the strongest resistance (the bottom of the anchor head should be maximum 1/4 inch above the top of the stabilizer plate). END WALL FRAME ANCHORS Attach straps to the bracket welded by the manufacturer to the frame (Figure 80). If no brackets have been installed, use approved beam clamps designed specifically for this purpose, available from anchor suppliers. Connect straps to anchors following same procedure as for sidewall frame anchors. I Figure 79. Procedure for connecting the strap to frame and anchor A� Anchor head location. As the anchor is pulled up to meet the stabilizer plate, the head of the anchor will rise. In its final position, the bottom of the anchor head should be no more than 1/4 inch above the top of the stabilizer plate. 78 5/25/2017 10:19 AM • • • TABLE 10. FOOTING DIMENSIONS 16x16 6 1600 6 1600 ..� 26 ` .._ . _..... 6 2600 _ ... _ 2424 6 3700 6 3700 30x30 �_-36x36�_ ._...�. 5800 10_._.�7900 $..�.._8100.._ �-42x42�:10. r8000 10 -`10 48x48 12 8000 10 14000 16x16 g 2500 :.IL6. ..2 _ 20x20 6 4000 6 4000 a fit, 5700. v, 30x30 10 8000 8 _ 88M 36x36 10-i '8000,`' 8 12600' 42x42 12 8000 10 16000 16x16 w.._ _... 6 .. 3400 .._®... 6 3400 _ 20x20 6_ 5300 6.._5300._ _24x24 - _._ ._ 8; - - 7600, ._� --~— _._ "m r 6 ,. �.� _ ::. 7700 30x30 10 8000 $ 11900 36x36 _': 12 8000"' 10TRi,6000; 16x16 6 4300 6 4300 a6700 24x24 8 8000 6 9700 30x30 10 8000 ..._._. � _... _.1 8 15000 36x36... 12 8000 0 16000_�_ 16x16 5`_ 6 52006 5200 20x20 8 8000 6 8100 24x24 .. _10 6 - 11700 = 30x30 12 8000 8 16000 _, _.... 6 _ ._ 7000 _ ��6._.. - 7000 20x20 8 8000 6 10900 =29x24° 10 e8000 8 15600 30x30 12 8000 10 16000 Note: The capacity values listed have been reduced by the dead load of the concrete footing. Design footings to comply with the following additional requirements: • Design each footing at least slightly larger than the base of the pier it sup- ports. • To keep footings directly under ]-beams and other support points, size them slightly larger than the minimum required area to allow slight adjustment of the pier location during home installation. • Design footings with a footing extension (projection beyond the base of the pier) no greater than the footing thickness (Figure 12). Increase footing thick- ness if necessary. MA J C0 Z Footing Extends 4 N O Extends By More YESBy Its Thickness Than ltsThiolmess OrLess 4" 8" SpIR Footing Extends YES Less Than One Third Its Wdth 16" Block 4" TypI 24. 24" 16r' YES�rS 4" q split Footing Extends NO More Than One Third Its Width • The footing sizes shown are for square pads and are based on the surface area (square inches), Design non -square footings such that the area and depth is equal to or greater than the area and depth of the square footing shown in Table 10, and the distance from the edge of the pier to the edge of the footing is not more than the thickness of the footing. See Table 11 for equivalent sizes of some alternate footing sizes and shapes. See Figure 13 and Figure 14 for details of certain multiple pad configurations. • For four -inch thick unreinforced precast concrete footings, use the minimum footing size for the six-inch cast -in -place footing from Table 10. • Concrete runners may be considered as an alternate to individual footings. Runners may be oriented full-length of home (parallel to the home main beams) or in a transverse direction. The size of the runner should meet or ex- ceed the size of the footings shown in Table 10. Example: 30"x30"x8" footing may be replaced by a 30" wide x 8" thick concrete runner. PRECAST CONCRETE PADS (16" x 16" x 4" thick pads) Single Pad Double Pad Quad Pad Figure 12. Maximum footing extensions Figure 13. Multiple Concrete Pads SPLICING STRAPS Splicing may be required when a pre-cut strap is of insufficient length. Splices in tie - down straps are not permitted in a 'Y' configuration. Overlap straps by 12 inches, ap- plying one splice clip from above -and -the other from below; use a crimping tool to tight- ly seal the splice clips (Figure 77). Do not run any portion of the splice through an an- chor head bolt. Apply S plice 'Y' S plice Not Permitted SIDEWALL FRAME ANCHORS Install straps to sidewall frame anchors as follows: 1. Connect strap to home. Connect one end of the strap to the home connec- tion point using approved buckles or clips (swivel or hook clip preferred). j AOpo t � Hsu \ x 1OWrap strap around main Connect hook totopof beam main beam and connect other end of strapto j anchor head. 2. Connect strap to anchor. Connect the other end of the strap to the split bolt in the anchor. Leave enough strap length to be able to make at least three, but no more than five complete turns around the bolt before it becomes tight (approximately 21/2 inches per turn or 71/2 to 13 inches total). Fewer than three turns and the strap may not hold onto the bolt when force is applied. Conversely, more than five turns may not fit within the U-channel of the an- chor head. Follow the procedure outlined in Figure 79. Figure 77. Tie -down strap splice Figure 78. Strap to beam connection r I � A Strap to beam connection. Regardless of the strap supplier's recommenda- tions, the strap must be connected to the top of the main beam to prevent damage to the structure. 11W I � 5/25/2017 1019 AM 0 0 9/28/2015 11:23 AM �8 77 Stabilizer Plate Configuration Stabilizer plate configurations (Figure 74) are suitable for homes in all wind zones. An- chors may be installed after the home is set. A stabilizer device, typically an ABS or the load is applied. Stabilizer plates are available in a variety of widths. Choose the widest plate that can be driven into the soil to maximize resistance to movement. The LAHJ may have stabilizer plate requirements. Install anchors with stabilizer plates as follows: 1. Locate anchor. Select a location for the anchor under the home but within six inches of the exterior wall (Figure 75). Avoid locations that will interfere with skirting. 2. Install anchor. To assure that the anchor attachment point will end up at the stabilizer plate, start the anchor insertion approximately 12 inches back from the desired location if using a 48 inch long anchor, or approximately 16 inches if using a 60 inch long anchor. Install the anchor at about 15 degrees off verti- cal, with the head tilted away from the home. Install the anchor to a depth of approximately one half its length. 3. Drive stabilizer plate. Drive the stabilizer plate into the ground to its full depth at the point determined in Step 1. 4. Complete anchor installation. Screw the anchor the rest of the way into the ground. The finished anchor must be installed to its full depth. VERTICAL ANCHORS To install vertical anchors, screw the anchor into the ground directly under the strap at- tachment point on the home until the bottom of the anchor head is flush with the ground or no more than one inch above grade. STEP 5. INSTALL STRAPS Follow the instructions below to connect straps from the home to sidewall frame, end ' wall frame and vertical anchors. Always protect straps at sharp comers including around I -beams with radius clips or other methods (Figure 76). Radius clips may be fabricated from 26ga (min) by 1 z inch wide galvanized steel strap formed to fit around comers. O QLongitudal 1-- Bracket W Protect Top and Z Bottom of Be=if 1-Beam CV Strap is Wrapped Around Beam �7-1 L Figure 75. Determining an- chor and stabilizer plate loca- tion (9).depression. Do not locate anchor heads in soil depressions where water may pool. Figure 76. Radius clips I 76 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 10--le • • TREATED LUMBER PADS (Min. 2 x12 x 24" pads) Single Pad Double Pad Triple Pad Single Double Triple 2 x ■• . - Single Double Triple 2 x fa• . - �3800 5700 7500 2400 4700 7100 9400 rf�,7500 5700=1 - , '8500 11300 3600 - -' = 7100 10600` 14100 r 7500 11300 15000 4700 9400 14100 18800 �9400� ' 14100 18800 5900 _ ',,11800. �17600`� 23500' •0 11300 16900 22500 7100 14100 21100 28200 rr0 1500& �• 22500 '30000' 9400='4 18800, 28200�` 37500 ; STEP 6. INSTALL FOOTINGS Construct the footings as follows: • Maintain the distance between adjacent piers to within 10% of the tabulated spacing and so the average distance between any adjacent spans is equal to or less than the tabulated spacing. • Whenever possible, place point load supports directly under the required lo- cations. If plumbing, electrical, mechanical equipment interferes, place sup- ports no more than 6 inches in either direction of the support point. • Recess perimeter blocking supports and perimeter point load supports no more than 10 inches from the edge of the floor with added support as shown in Figure 15. 4x4 Or 2-2x4'S On Edge Together) Spanning W Floc Rim Plate 10" A From E • If footings are rectangular, orient them so that the long side is perpendicular to the home's I-beam. • Place the bottom of footings on undisturbed soil or fill compacted to at least 90% of its maximum relative density. • In freezing climates protect footings from the effects of frost heave in accord- ance with any LAHJ requirements (see Prepare the Site, p. 14). Place the 17 10:19 AM Figure 14. Multiple Lumber Pads Placing Concrete anchors. If anchors will be placed in concrete, follow instructions in Install Stabilizing Sys- tem (p. 68) to determine anchor layout. Either place anchors immediately after the concrete has been poured or drill them in after the concrete has set. Figure 15. Perimeter sup- ports Excavation. If excavation is required, mark the footing locations on the 29 bottom of the footings below the frost line (insulated foundations and mono- lithic slabs are other frost protection options not covered in this manual). Make sure the top surface of the footing is level, flat, and smooth. • In accordance with the American Concrete Institute publication ACI-308, maintain curing measures before construction or installation onto the concrete footing begins, until a minimum of 70% of the specified 28-day compressive strength has been achieved. The ACI recommended time to attain this level of strength is seven days for ASTM C150 Type 1 mixtures and 10 days for Type II mixtures. Full design live and dead loads may not be applied until the 28- day duration has elapsed for achieving full strength. • For multi -section units, the mating line piers may need special solutions. If a G-strap occurs at a support post, the piers can be arranged as shown in Fig- ure 16. If the loads at the support post are large enough, it may be necessary to use double piers as shown in Figure 17. If a G-strap occurs where double piers are used, it may be necessary to add support beams as shown in Fig- ure 18. • Figure 15 thru Figure 18 are intended to show pier and footing placement. The actual pier construction shown (concrete block or commercial metal) is not meant to limit the type of pier that can be used. Any type of pier described in Table 13 (p. 38) may be used in these configurations. Support Post or Mating wall Second Pier If required For multiple piers at G-strap pier need only support halfofthe total support post load. Support Post or Mating Wall kAlf abeled G-Strap Second Pier required max. ground with stakes before beginning to dig. Figure 16. Piers at Support Posts (with G-Strap) 30 5/25/2017 10:19 AM • C, • • Make sure the anchor is of sufficient length such that the top of the helix is below the frost line. Select a shaft diameter sufficient to resist excessive torsion, "ring -off' (when the helix or anchor head separates from shaft) or shaft splitting. Consult the anchor supplier for guidance. Review all of STEP 4. INSTALL ANCHORS (p. 75) and STEP 5. INSTALL STRAPS (p. 76) before making final anchor selections to determine when single -headed vs. double -headed anchors should be used. Follow the specifications in Table 30 when selecting stabilizing system components. TABLE 31. ANCHOR SYSTEM MATERIALS SPECIFICATIONS Straps must be minimum 1-1/4" x 0.035" zinc -coated (0.30 oz per sq ft) steel strapping conforming to ASTM D3953-97, Type 1, Grade 1, Finish B with a minimum allowable working load capacity of 3,150lbs and a minimum ultimate load of 4,725 lbs. Slit or cut edges of zinc -coated strapping do not need to be zinc coated. STEP 4. INSTALL ANCHORS Before beginning anchor installation, check for obstructions under the home such as piers and frame members that may interfere with the tie down strapping. Check with utility companies to determine the location of underground utilities, such as electrical and phone lines, and water, sewer, and gas pipes that may be buried in potential anchor locations. Also check for homeowner -installed wires and pipes, such as those connecting exterior lighting or sheds to the home. These must also be avoided. FRAME ANCHORS Frame anchors can be installed in two ways, in -line and against a stabilizer plate. The two methods are discussed below: In -Line Configuration The in -line configuration (Figure 73) for homes can be used in Wind Zone I only. Typi- cally, in -line anchors are used under high homes where the anchors can be installed from under the home after the home is set. In -line anchors can also be installed before the home is set; however, precisely aligning the anchor with the home both vertically and horizontally is difficult. Using swivel connectors for the strap to beam connection can provide some horizontal flexibility. To install in -line frame anchors, drive the anchor into the ground at an angle and loca- tion such that a straight line can be drawn from the tip of the anchor through the anchor head and to the connection point on the I-beam (Figure 74). Gror Stab Grading area around anchors. Anchor heads should not rest in sunken spots. Grade the ground so that water does not collect around anchor heads, but runs away from the anchor and out from under the. home. Do not bury anchor heads. Figure 73. In -line anchor configuration Figure74. Stabilizerplate configuration .01 75 Z 40 J h z 74 Labeled G -1 Labeled G -2 Single anchor need straps straps only develop 3150 bs. aOowable load. Both straps maybe Straps must be fastened to a single fastened to individual anchor head. anchors. No stabilizer plate is required for ground anchor at labeled G-strap along mating line. Labeled G-1 Straps Labeled G-2 Straps TAG UNIT ANCHORS See supplemental pages if this particular home has a tag that requires frame or vertical anchors. PORCH POST ANCHORS See supplemental pages if this particular home has a porch that requires anchors. OFFSET UNIT ANCHORS See supplemental pages if this particular home has an offset that requires anchors. STEP 2. DETERMINE TIE -DOWN CONFIGURATION There are two primary tie -down configurations: the near beam and the far beam meth- ods. If the anchor spacing selected in the appropriate anchor table (Table 27, Table 28 or Table 29) has an asterisk (') then use the far beam method. Otherwise, use the near beam method (Figure 72). Each method varies by wind zone as described below. • Near beam method. For all Wind Zones, connect an anchor strap from the anchor head to the beam closest to the anchor. In addition for Wind Zones II and III, connect a vertical strap from the sidewall of the home to the anchor head using a double -headed anchor. • Far beam method. For Wind Zone I connect anchor straps from the anchor head (using a double -headed anchor) to both of the home's main frame beams. For Wind Zones II and III connect one anchor strap from the anchor head (using a double -headed anchor) to the home's far beam and one to the sidewall of the home. Near Benin Frame Tie-Dmm Vertical Sid — Tie -Down (W,m Zone 11 and III Only) Near Bwm Frame Tie -Dam (Ondt In Wnd Zones II and III) Figure 71. Marriage Line Vertical Anchors When to install marriage line anchors. Anchors along the marriage line must be installed prior to the second half of a multi - section home being set. Vertical S&MvnO Far Ben. Frame Tie-Davn (ro Be Tie -Down Ond Added When Near Beam Zon s II and III Ground Level By C) Exceeds �° As hdca�d By (� On Anchor Chats) Orgy) ace------------------zom�ose:� Stabilizer Plate Ground Anchor STEP 3. SELECT ANCHORS Use the torque probe results from Prepare the Site, STEP 6. DETERMINE GROUND ANCHOR HOLDING CAPACITY (p. 17) and the anchor manufacturer instructions; select the type and length of anchor to use. The installed ground anchor size (length) must be listed (i.e. approved) for the soil class. aQAoFES-S,O'�a � A�/lrc�� 33105 ," • s�. FCHAN�G �P a' OF CAItF`��� Figure 72. Lateral tie -down con- figurations 171 • Support %= post Wood wedges —Cap block a ow) Ni �s�� ��—See footing table for capacities wedges block cities wedges block cities Figure 17. Multiple piers at support posts Y�- /o 31 wedges dock )acities wedges dock 3acities TABLE 12 BEAM SELECTION FOR MULTIPLE PIERING 2 -2x10 000" '2=2x14.10500' 3 - 2x10 17000 3 - 2x14 21500 1 - 4x10 12000 1 - 4x14 14000 2 - 2x12 12000 3 - 2x12 23000 1 - 4x12 16000 1. Lumber to be minimum SPF #2 (may be treated or untreated) 2. Beams of the desired configuration may be selected from the appropriate table and used individually or in combinations to achieve the required capacity 3. Multiple 2X members shall be fastened together with 16d nails at 8" o.c. through both outer members 0 Figure 18. Multiple piers and G- strap at support posts 32 5/25/2017 10:19 AM • • • • SIDEWALL VERTICAL ANCHORS Homes designed for Wind Zones II and III also require vertical tie -downs along the sidewalls. The vertical tie -down anchor straps (or brackets for connecting to the home) are factory installed and indicate -the -locations. Vertical and frame sidewall tie -downs may connect to one double -headed anchor or each to its own dedicated anchor. Any factory -installed sidewall tie -down straps must be connected to a ground anchor regardless of the wind zone in which the home is placed. END WALL FRAME ANCHORS End wall frame tie -downs are especially important for homes that are wider and have higher roof pitches because those features increase the surface area exposed to wind loads at the ends of the home. Use Table 30 to determine the number of end wall frame anchors required on each end of the home. Note: Wind Zone 1 end wall frame anchors are not required in the following conditions: • Single -section homes over 27 feet in length. • Multi -section homes where all sections are over 35 feet in length. When one section is less than 35 feet in length, only that section requires anchors. SHEARWALL ANCHORS Shearwalls are sections of interior or exterior wall engineered to withstand racking forces. Some interior shearwalls require anchoring to resist these forces. The location of any shearwall requiring a ground anchor will be clearly indicated by the presence of a coiled G-strap. Straps may be located along the sidewall or the mating line. Each shearwall tie -down requires a dedicated anchor. Do not connect shearwall tie - downs to the same anchor as frame or other tie -downs. MARRIAGE LINE VERTICAL ANCHORS In Wind Zones II and III (and sometimes in Wind Zone 1), anchors are required along the marriage line to resist uplift forces. The location of any ground an- chor will be clearly indicated by the presence of a G-coiled strap. The straps may be classified as G-1 (two straps sharing one anchor) or G-2 (two straps each with its own anchor). See Figure 71 for the two configurations. 9/28/2015 11 Ca r 73 TABLE 29. WIND ZONE III SIDEWALL FRAME ANCHOR MAXIMUM SPACING Construct Foundation Roof sl• • - • • • • (FOR HOMES WITH LOAD -BEARING PERIMETER WALL) 0. This chapter rovides -guidelines and recommandationsjo-the 01[2' p to 25' _ _ S_6" • _ _ 3•_0" • ' to 48' _ " 5'-6" • 3'-0" 8' to 67" 5'-6" • 3'-0" p to 25" 5�_6�. .' 3..6 5" to 48" _ 6'_0" • 3•_6" 8'to 67 6`4'• 3.6"p to 25" 4'-6"•NA 5•to,48'".q_6... NAMore than 8" to 67" 4'-6" • NA •� • Up to 25' — -- 540" 3'-0':.' . 25' to 48" _ 5'-0... 3,_0" 48' to 67 5'-0" • 3'-0- Up to 25' 4'-0" • 5'-6" • 3W, 25' to 48' _ = _ 4'-0' • 5'-6" • 3'-0" • - 48'to67• 4'-0"• 5'-6'- T-0"(142" Max.)mm More than ' Up to 25". _ �3'-0 5'-0' NA 25' to 48' T-0" • _ 5'-0" • NA • 4 48'to67' ... 3'_0"• 5'-0"�• - _ NA Up to 25" 4'-6" 4'-6" _ ® 3'-0" • _ ' to 7" - 41-0" . 5. . ' 3'-0" 486. 48' to T q'_0" • 5'-6" • 3'-0" • -.. •'More_ Up to 25"4 0 4.0 .. NA 26" to 48" _ 3'-0 V-011.NA 91-01, 48'to 67" '" 3'-0' • , 5-0' NA Up to 25" _ 5'-6" _ _ 5'-6" 3'-0" _ 25'to48' 4'-0 . 4'-0(186"Max.r=m _ _ NA_ 48• to 67" 4W' • 5'4" • 3'_0" More than Up'to 25' m, 4�6" 4,_6 NA 25• to 3'-6" 3 6 NA � 48•a67'o 6T 3'-0"' 4'-6' NA Up to 25" 6W' . 48'to sr a'_tr' 44 - - 'Up -•to 25 5'-0 , 25'to 48 _ 4'_0 _ � 48'to 67 * Indicates a configuration that will require an additional strap connected to the far beam (see Figure 72) Z O H h z 72 171 • • 0 0% foundation using a load -bearing perimeter wall. A load -bearing perimeter wall foundation system uses a wall along the outer edge of the home to support the home's outside walls. This perimeter support works with interior supports such as piers, columns, and cross beams that support the home's frame and, if multi -section, marriage line. STEP 1. OBTAIN A FOUNDATION DESIGN (p. 33) V STEP 2. EXCAVATE (p. 33) STEP 3. CONSTRUCT THE FOOTING OR SLAB (p. 33) V STEP 4. CONSTRUCT THE PERIMETER WALL'(p. 33) V STEP 5. INSTALL INTERIOR SUPPORTS (p. 34) STEP 6. WATERPROOF FOUNDATION WALL (p: 34) STEP 7. BACKFILL AND GRADE (p. 34) STEP 1. OBTAIN A FOUNDATION DESIGN Complete plans for the construction of a typical permanent foundation with load - bearing perimeter walls are available from the home manufacturer. If such plans need modification, or if a completely new design is desired, it is the responsibility of the re- tailer and/or homeowner to provide a design approved by an engineer or architect, li- censed in the state where the home will be installed. The approved design must com- ply with the LAHJ regulations for foundation design, waterproofing, and drainage, and the following: • The foundation perimeter bearing wall must be supported with a concrete slab or continuous strip footing around the perimeter of the home. Interior piers must be supported by a slab or footings. If footings are used under interior piers, they may be designed as in Install Footings, p. 19. • Slabs must extend to the edges of the home. • Footings and slabs must be protected from the effects of frost heave by ex- tending the footings to or below the frost line or by using a frost protected shallow foundation design. STEP 2. EXCAVATE Excavate for the foundation, properly disposing of the earth that is not needed for backfill or site -grading purposes. STEP 3. CONSTRUCT THE FOOTINGS OR SLAB Construct the foundation according to the approved design, including the perimeter foundation wall, drainage system, footing(s), and/or slab. STEP 4. CONSTRUCT THE PERIMETER WALL Unless the approved design requires otherwise, construct the perimeter wall with mor- tared and reinforced concrete blocks or reinforced poured -in -place concrete. Install re- inforcement according to the approved design or LAHJ. Install ventilation and access openings according to the approved design, or if not specified, according to the re- quirements in Complete Exterior Work, STEP 3 INSTALL SKIRTING (p. 99). When constructing pockets for an H-beam system, measure the beam depth and Z O AZ Using engineered designs. This section is NOT intend- ed to provide a complete design for a buildable foun- dation. A complete design must be obtained that is suitable for the local area and sealed by a profes- sional engineer or regis- tered architect, licensed in the state. Foundation ready home. Make sure that homes to be installed on a basement or a crawlspace have been ordered with a recessed frame or as foundation - ready, where the frame is designed to avoid interfer- ence with the foundation wall. If the home has 2x6 exterior walls, check with the manufacturer to verify the home's overall dimen- sions as these may be in- creased 4" due to this type of construction. Checking the water table. For basements, check for a high water table. The water table may vary seasonally 33 z 0 B t— z locate the pockets carefully. It is critical that when the home's frame rests on top of the H-beam, the perimeter of the floor rests squarely on the foundation wall sill plate (Figure 19). Bolt a pressure treated wood sill plate (minimum 2 x 6) to the top of the foundation wall. Connect the home to the foundation according to the approved design. Recess nuts into the sill plate and cut off the ends of bolts so they do not project above the sill plate and interfere with the placement of the home. Floor Pressure Chassis [7T,eated Main Sill Plate I -Beam Transverse H-beam Grout -oundation STEP 5. INSTALL INTERIOR SUPPORTS Install piers, columns and H-beams to support the interior of the home according to the approved design. STEP 6. DAMP PROOF FOUNDATION WALL Damp proof the foundation wall no less than up to the height of the planned backfill STEP 7. BACKFILL AND GRADE Backfill against the foundation wall to the height of the damp proofing. Take care to not damage the drainage system. Grade the fill as per Prepare the Site (p. 14). or based on weather conditions. A geologist can perform an algae test to determine the water table level. The foundation design must account for a high water table. Level the wall. Make sure the foundation is level and straight with no more than a 1/4 inch vertical variation over the entire foundation and no more than 1/8 inch vertical variation over any two -foot length. Check for Plates. When us- ing an H-beam system, check and compensate for reinforcement plates that add thickness to the chas- sis beam at axle locations. Figure 19. H-beam installa- tion Limits of exca- vation. When a crane will be used, excavate no more than two feet outside the foundation perimeter. Un- excavated ground will pro- vide a more stable base for the crane. Footing heights. Pour foot- ings to a height that will re- duce the need to cut blocks or shim when building pe- rimeter walls and piers. milAA Backfilling. Backfill against basement walls only after the home is connected to the foundation or the basement walls may deflect inward or collapse. • • 34 5/25/2017 10:19 AM • • TABLE 28. WIND ZONE II SIDEWALL FRAME ANCHOR MAXIMUM SPACING Up to 25" 8'-6" • 4'-6" 25"to48' _ T-6 ' - 4-4- 48" to 67" 7'-0" • 4'_6" I Up to 25'' 99.5' Max 25' to 48' _ 8�0" ` 4'-6" 48'to67", 7.4..e.. 4L6". Up to 25" — .... - 7�0.. T-6" . 25., to 48 _ - 6'-6" _ a 3'_6" ` '> More than 48° to 67" 6'_0" • _. 3'_6"91-01, .` Upto25' _ 7,_0": 4W' �= 25" to 48' _ 6L&' • 4'_0" 48' to 67' _ 6'-0"..' a.. 4'_0" —12'm 48' to 67' V-6— 7L6" 4�6" Up to 25' 5'-6" • 8'-6" ` _ 4'-6" 26°to48 5'-6' � 8 0"•`'_> 4-6 ' - _ Upto:25 - 25' to 48" 4,_0" • 7'_0" • 4'_0" 48'to 67' 4._6.. 6'-6"• - _ ,4._6"... Up to 25" ... 5' 6 _ 5 6 ... T-0" ® 25'to4tl' 5 6"': . .. 8 0 ', 4 0'• .. . 48' to 67" 5.6' . 7.6" • 4 0" (164" Max.) More than Upto25` .. 50 60-- 30 .-- { • • • 25' to 48° 4 0'' 7 0 � 3 6 - 48'to 67' 4 0" ` _ 6; 6" • 3-6 Up to 25' _ 6'-6" 6-6" 3'-6" ® 25" to 48" , . 5'-6" 5 OIL o, - , "• 4 0" • 48" to 67" 5L6". 6 0'.. 4_0.. .. _ than Up to 25 5'-6" 5'-6. _. 3 0" , 25. to 48" 4'-0" 4'_0" T-6" • 48' to 67" :. 4•_0•. 6'_6" • _ 3•_6" Up to 25" 7'-0" — 18, . . 5" tp 48" e 48' to 67" 4'_6" 0' . - Upto25'. 25" to 48' 5 -0" — -- • 48' to 67• - - ' Indicates a configuration that will require an additional strap connected to the far beam (see Figure 75 9/2812015 11: 71 TABLE 27. WIND ZONE I SIDEWALL FRAME ANCHOR MAXIMUM SPACING Up to 25' — 21'-0' • 11'-6' 25' to 48• —- 16'-0' •' 9'-6' • - - 48" to 67" — 14'-0" • 8'-6' • Up to 2F ,. — . .. - .. 21'-0' • - .. 12'-0" . 25' to 48•.. — 16'-6"• 10-0, 48" to 67" 14'-6' • 8;-6. • . 25" to 48"' - — - - 13'-6' • 8 6' ' 48" to 67' — 11'-0' • 7 -6'^• Up..to25 --� -, 17'-0 • . -,, .., ... 10,-6 ,s e 25" to 48' — 13'-6' • 3,_6, 48' to 67" =a= _ _ 12'-0• • 8'-0' • _ - Up to 25' 18'-6' • 24'-0' • 11' 6* 25" to 48" 15'-6* _ 17'-6' • - 9 -6.. 48' to 67' 14'-0' • 15'-6' • 8'-6' = Up to 25" : 15'-6' ` - .. - 19'-0" - 10'=0' �. 25'to48' 1310'• 14'-6".�. 86"• • _ 48" to 67' 1Z-0• • -.. 12r 6• • ,.7•_6" Up to 25' 12'-6' 17'-6' 11'-0' ' 25" to 48' 16'-6' • 19'-0' • 9'-0'' 48" to 67' 14'-6' • 16'-0' • 8'-6— ... Up to 25- - 10'-6- _ 13 6 - , -:. • 90'-0 - _ 25' to 48' 13'-6' • - 15'-6" • 8'-6" ` 48'to 6T 12'-6" • - ' 13'-6' , T-6' , _ Up to 25" 15'-6" 23'-6' 8'-6' - 25'to48` _ 10'-0' 20'-0'- 48'to 67' 15'-0" • 17'-0 Up to 25., �..; 12' 0, „°. 17 6, ` 9'-6' • �,".� • • 25" to 48' 1'-0• -0" _® 48- to 667-13'-0- 14'-0* 4'-0' • , T-6" Up to 25' 17'-6' - - 25'to 48' 12'-0' - 48' to 67' 9'-6- - - T-F to 25° to ae 10' o 48" to 67 * Indicates a configuration that will require an additional strap connected to the far beam (see Figure 72) • • Set the Home This chapter describes the process of installing the first section of the home (for single section homes this is the only sec- tion) onto the foundation. STEP 1. PREPARE FOR SET (p. 35) STEP 2. POSITION HOME SECTION (p. 35) STEP 3. LIFT HOME (p. 35) STEP 4. CONSTRUCT PIERS (p. 37) STEP 1. PREPARE FOR SET Before beginning the home set, complete the following: • Confirm that the site is properly cleared and graded (see Prepare the Site, p. 14. • Ensure that the footings are in place and properly located. • Install any utilities that will be difficult to install (e.g. those below grade be- neath the home) after the home is in place. • Secure or remove from the home and properly store all ship loose items (refer to shipping documents for items shipped with the home). • Inspect the home interior, exterior and all provided materials, appliances, and equipment. Immediately report any damage or shortages to the manufacturer. • The ground moisture retarder must be installed now or after the home is complete. If the retarder is to be installed now, see Complete Exterior Work, STEP 2. INSTALL GROUND MOISTURE RETARDER (p. 98) for require- • • ment and then return here. For perimeter bearing wall foundations: • Check that the length and width of the home match with the foundation walls. • Check that the two main diagonal measurements of the foundation are equal. • Check that the foundation walls and other support points are within 1 /4 inch of level between any adjacent piers or any eight foot distance, whichever is less. • For multi -section homes, check that each pair of diagonal measurements for each portion of the foundation corresponding to a home section are equal. • For multi -section homes, find the electrical bonding lugs on the front or rear outriggers. Reverse them to the inside of the outrigger using star washers so they will be accessible after the home is placed on the foundation walls. • If using an H-beam system, remove the frame's shackle hanger if it will inter- fere with proper placement of the beam. STEP 2. POSITION HOME SECTION Position the home section in its final location (if possible, move the heaviest section of the home into place first). Then place materials needed to construct support piers near their final locations under the home as determined in Install Footings, (p. 19). STEP 3. LIFT HOME There are three primary methods available to place the home on the foundation: jacking, rolling and craning. Jacks, often with roller systems, are typically used for pier and anchor foundations; roller systems are commonly used for crawlspace foundations with load -bearing perimeter walls; and cranes are most commonly used for basement IY&FAZZ Clearances under the home. After the home is leveled, the resulting dis- tance between the bottom of the entire chassis main frame beam and the ground must be no less than 12 inches. Utilize proper cribbing. Manufactured homes weigh several tons. No one should be under the home (whether it is mov- ing or stationary) unless proper cribbing is in place (Figure 20). Failure to uti- lize proper cribbing may result in serious injury or death. Leveling during jacking. Keep the home's floor as level as possible during jacking. Twisting or warping the floor can dam- age the structure and finish- ing. Use as many jacks as necessary to keep the floor flat and level. lip _ 5/25/2017 10:19 AM • 5/25/2017 10:19 AM r0 35 foundations. JACKS If jacks are to be used, comply with all jacking safety precautions and the procedure below. Lifting the home with jacks involves potential risks and must be done with ut- most care and caution. Failure to follow jacking warnings and procedures may result in serious injury or death. Please read the Jacking Safety Precautions before lifting the home with jacks. • No one should be under the home's`I-beams while the jacks are being operat- ed or while the home is supported only on the jacks. • Use jacks only for raising the home. Do not rely on the jacks to support the home. • If possible, raise the home only on one side so that the other side is in contact with the ground. Leave the hitch connected to the vehicle or other stabilizing equipment. m • Obey all OSHA regulations. • Make sure adequate safety cribbing (Figure 20) is in place whenever the home is placed on jacks. Usea minimum of two commercial qualityjacks, each with a rating of at least 12 tons. • Jack only on the main chassis I-beam, centering jacks directly under the beam. • Do not jack on a seam (joint between flanges of twin kbeams). • To distribute the concentrated loads from jacks to I-beam, place a minimum 3/87inch thick steel'.plate, a C-channel,`a 1 %-inch thick hardwood block of a commercial jacking plate, between the main=chassis 1-beam and the jack head. • Locate the jack base on firm ground. Never jack on freshly disturbed soil or where an underground sewer pipe may be located. • Use a firm support under the jack base to prevent tipping or settling of the jack. A minimum 16" x 16" or larger wood or rigid fiberglass pad is recommended. Never use concrete blocks as a support for a jack. Follow the jacking sequence outlined below to avoid overstressing structural members: 1. Block wheels. Block the wheels so the house does not roll. 2. Install cribbing. Install safety cribbing (Figure 20). flms_�; :( 3. Level lengthwise. Locate one jack at the hitch and level the section length- wise (such that the front and rear of the section are at the same height). 4. Locate frame jacks. Place a minimum of one jack just forward of the first spring hanger and another just behind the last spring hanger of the I-beam on the side of the home that is lowest (making sure not to place jacks where the piers will go). Place jacks no more than 20 feet apart and no more than 20 feet from each end of the I-beam. 5. Lift the home. Operating the jacks simultaneously (or sequentially in very small increments), lift the home section until it is slightly higher than the final desired pier height. IWO • • C=7 Figure 20. Stack 4" x 6" by 5' long timbers as shown to form safety timbers. Place safety timbers under home behind axle area and under hitch. 017 10:19 AM i • zone in which the home is placed. determine the location of 2. Install interior shear wall anchors and marriage line anchors prior to moving the home over the underground utilities, top of the anchor locations and then return to Set the Home or Complete Multi -Section Set re- especially electrical cables spectively. or gas pipes, may result in --Figure 69 and Figure 70 illustrate -typical anchor locations for a double -section home— serious personal injury or in Wind Zone I and Wind Zones II and III respectively. death. Sidewall Frame Tie -Down, Key. �=Anchor Head 0 Vertical Tie- Strap Down ]-Beam :�t�Y:r13PtI vestn.a� Ire Dawn -~s1 s ti �hearvsall Tie -Dawn I _ I L Ir- s -- ti f`'ti�ffi1t1T!"'lsl�L�te �, i Vr_rflcalT�-nj on �'^i-Fifa9Ri �_- Lu[arial Frame r e Tie -Down S le"v I s ti `, JeriicaJ tit<vrnreli ver kcal 1 se Omen _✓ �I—L alr rial Rarw: Tie.nocatr € rr:-Drlcrtrt; Irr For 51}wn SIDEWALL FRAME ANCHORS Use Table 27, Table 28 and Table 29 to determine the spacing between anchors for Wind Zones I, II, and III, respectively. Spacing requirements will vary depending on the type of home (single or multi -section), the slope of the roof, the width of the floor for each section, the sidewall height, I-beam spacing, and the height from the ground to the strap attachment point. Determine the values for the home. Using the table for the appropriate wind zone, determine the column and row that corresponds to the charac- teristics of the home. The value on the tables is the maximum distance between an- chors. Keep in mind that sidewall frame tie -downs must be located no more than two feet from each end wall. 9/28/2015 11: Figure 69. Typical anchor locations for a double -section home in Wind Zone I Figure 70. Typical anchor locations for a double -section home in Wind Zones 11 or 01 ZZ Maximum spacing requirements. The LAHJ may have anchor spacing requirements that supersede the values provided in this manual. Minimum spacing requirements. See anchor manufacturers installation instructions. Typically min. spacing equals length of anchor (cone of influence). �J 69 H Z Install Stabilizing Systems This chapter covers the design and installation of the stabilizing system which secures the home against lateral and uHovuEnHatRnsnPrc STEP 1. DETERMINE ANCHOR LOCATIONS (p. 68) V STEP 2. DETERMINE TIE -DOWN CONFIGURATION (p. 74) V STEP 3.'SELECT ANCHORS (p. 74) V STEP 4 INSTALL ANCHORS (p. 75) STEP S: JNSTALL STRAPS (p. 76) V STEP 6. TIGHTEN AND ADJUST STRAPS (p. 79) STEP 1. DETERMINE ANCHOR LOCATIONS Create a sketch of the home plan showing the exterior walls, marriage line(s) (if any) and frame I -beams (this will be similar to the base sketch created in Prepare Footings, page 19). See Table 26 for a list of anchor locations, types, and where they are required. Pages where the requirements are provided are noted in the last column. As each anchor location is determined, mark it on the sketch, noting important dimen- sions such as spacing between anchors. When complete, this will be the home's tie - down plan (Figure 69 and Figure 70). TABLE 26. ANCHOR LOCATION TYPES uonnect any factory-insimea siaewan ue-aown straps to a grouna ancnor regaraiess of the wino ZA Need for a stabilizing system. The manufactured home must be secured against the wind by the use of an anchor assembly or an alternative foundation system. Where site or other conditions prohibit the use of the manufacturer's instructions, a registered engineer or registered architect must design the stabilizing system. Flood and seismic forces. The stabilizing system requirements in this chapter do not consider flood or seismic loads and are not intended for use in flood or seismic hazard areas. In those areas retain a registered engineer or registered architect to design the stabilizing system. Underground Utilities. Before installation of any ground anchors, determine that any anchor will not be close to any underground cables or pipes. Failure to • ROLLER SYSTEMS When using a roller system, comply with the equipment manufacturer's directions and the following sequence: both sides of the foundation. 2. Setup -rollers. Set up the roller system according to the equipment manufac- turer's directions. 3. Fasten bump blocks. Temporarily fasten wooden bump blocks on the sill plates at the ends of the foundation to stop the home from rolling at the de- sired location. 4. Roll home. Roll the home into place over the foundation. 5. Remove bump blocks. Remove the blocks before installing the next section of a multi -section home. CRANES When using a crane, follow these guidelines: • Position the home section(s) and crane (taking the boom reach into consider- ation) such that they do not have to be repositioned during the set. • Use enough properly sized straps to maintain balance of the home and to prevent damage to the structure. • Place straps under walls or posts, including temporary posts used to support the opening. Do not position lifting straps under marriage wall openings. • Use a properly sized spreader bar to maintain a vertical lift, to avoid placing compression forces on the eaves and to reduce any tendency to slip. Connect a rope to at least one point on the home so it can be controlled while aloft. • Make provisions to retrieve the straps/cables after the home is set. If using a cradle system, notch the sill plate where the straps will fall. For a sling sys- tem, notch and reinforce the home's rim joist to keep the strap from slipping and allow the strap to be removed after the home is set. • • Always set the home section farthest from the crane first so that subsequent section(s) need not be lifted over previously set sections. STEP 4. CONSTRUCT PIERS For the side of the home section that is up on jacks, place piers on footings or pads fol- lowing the home manufacturer's blocking plan (or tags). If no plan was provided, use the support plan developed in Install Footings (p. 19). Start at one end of the home section and work toward the other noting the required pier material specifications and procedure described below. Construct piers so as to provide a stable foundation for the home using materials listed in the specifications box below and based on the location of the pier and its height as measured from the top of the footing or pad to the top of the cap. See Table 14 for pier construction requirements. � 1 M Z Designing piers. Incorrect Cn size, location or spacing of D piers may result in serious r- structural damage to the > home. Install piers at all re- quired locations. Failure to do Z so may lead to sagging ic floors, walls, and roofs, and could void the home's war- Z ranty. > r- 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 0 • 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 68 37 TABLE 13. PIER MATERIAL MINIMUM SPECIFICATIONS of at least 8" x 8" x 16"; minimum load 8,000 Ibs; confirming to C90, grade N. Nominal 2" thick boards. Available in various sizes stamped with maximum load capacity and listed or labeled for the required verti- cal load capacity, and where required by design, for the appropriate horizontal load capacity. TABLE 14. PIER CONSTRUCTION Construct perimeter and marriage line piers over 54 inches according to the requirements for frame piers of the same height. 1. Prepare footing surface. Make sure the footing surface upon which the pier sits is flat and smooth. Before placing the pier on the footing, clean dirt, rocks, or other material off the surface of the footing. For cast -in -place concrete foot- ings, if the footing surface is uneven, create a level, flat surface by placing a treated board on the footing and mortaring on the first block (or manufactured pier base), or by placing the first block (or manufactured pier base) on a layer of premix dry sand mortar. 2. Stack blocks. Stack concrete blocks with their hollow cells aligned vertically. When piers are constructed of blocks stacked side -by -side, orient each layer at right angles to the previous one (Figure 21) and plan blocks so that split caps will be perpendicular to the blocks they rest on and to the I-beam. 6 9r] 5/25,12017 10:19 AM • _._..._._.. _...._.. .._.._.._.. _.............................................................. - ... _......._ .._ ....._...._._.. Install interior ship loose wall and/or ceiling panels using a 1/4 inch diameter bead of polyvinyl acetate (PVA) adhesive on all framing members and fasten with minimum 1- 1/2 inch long staples or nails at six inches o.c. along panel edges and 12 inches o.c. in the field into framing members. STEP 4. COMPLETE CARPET Install and seam ship loose or rolled carpet as follows: 1. Prepare floor. Clean the floor of all dirt and debris and smooth the floor deck at the marriage line seams as necessary to ensure a level and smooth sur- face. 2. Lay pad. Lay down the carpet pad, if provided. 3. Stretch carpet. Ensuring all carpet "grain" runs in the same direction, fit and secure the carpet using a power carpet stretcher. Stretch the carpet up to the seam and tack it down temporarily until the carpet is seamed. 4. Butter carpet. "Butter' with carpet adhesive the edges of the carpet along the seam. 5. Seam carpet. Place heat bond tape under the seam with the glue side next to the carpet and apply heat from a seaming iron to the top of the seam, press- ing the carpet into the glue. 6. Keep scraps. Retain reasonable size carpet scraps to protect carpet and flooring during move -in. STEP 5. COMPLETE TRIM Using fine gauge wire staples or pin nails, install ship loose molding and wainscot pan- eling to finish trimming out ceilings, marriage line walls, front and rear end walls, and passageway doors where necessary. STEP 6. INSTALL SHIP LOOSE ITEMS Remove all strapping, blocking, and packaging from appliances, windows, and doors. Install any drapes, mini -blinds, mirrors, door stops, closet shelves, and hardware per the product manufacturer's installation instructions. ' • 0 5/25/2017 10:1 V&F*IFZZA Installing carpet. Only ex- perienced carpet installers should install carpet. Fail- ure to follow the carpet manufacturer's directions may void the carpet war- ranty. Stagger seams. Stagger all seams. For ex- ample, locate the carpet pad seam three inches to left of marriage line and the carpet seam three inches to right of marriage line. - 5 Z C r 67 Complete the Interior This chapter covers the completion of the home's interior finishes including finishing walls, ceilings, flooring, trim, and mis- cellaneous items. STEP 1. ALIGN MARRIAGE WALLS (p. 66) STEP 2. FINISH GYPSUM BOARD (p. 66) T STEP 3.`COMPLETE WALL AND CEILING FINISHES (p. 66) STEP 4. COMPLETE CARPET (p. 67) V STEP 5. COMPLETE TRIM (p. 67) V STEP 6. INSTALL SHIP LOOSE ITEMS (p. 67) STEP 1. ALIGN MARRIAGE WALLS Align and secure walls at marriage line openings as follows: 1. Align walls. Align walls and clamp in place. 2. Fasten walls. Secure clamped walls together with metal straps or long screws so they do not move when the clamps are removed. Insert wood wedges in gaps between walls, and glue and screw to create a tight connec- tion. 3. Fill gaps. Fill any remaining gaps with wood or sheathing material. STEP 2. FINISH GYPSUM BOARD Finish all unfinished gypsum board walls and ceilings as follows: 1. Install panels. Install ship loose gypsum panels using a 1/4 inch diameter bead of adhesive on all framing members and minimum 1-1/2 inch long dry- wall screws, nails, or staples at six inches o.c. along panel edges and 12 inches o.c. in the field into framing members. 2. Mud seams. Mud and tape all seams and corners, filling all fastener depres- sions. Follow mud manufacturer's directions. 3. Paint. When the final coat of mud is dry, prime and paint all unfinished gyp- sum board to match existing paint color and finish texture. � A Fastening gypsum. When attaching gypsum board, depress, but do not break the paper face with the fas- tener. Breaking the paper will weaken the connection. Using alternative materials. Obtain the home manufac- turer's approval before us- ing interior finish materials other than those provided with the home. 66 I 5/25/2017 10:19 AM l 0 • is 11 Main I -Beam Wood Shims to Fill Gaps Up to 1"Max Optional 2x6 Spacer 4x8x16 Concrete Cap or 2x8x16 P.T. or Hardwood Cap Typical 8x8x16 Concrete Block Typical Fooling Main I -Beam Wood Shims to Fill Optional (2) 2x6or (1) 2x12 Spacer 4x8x16 Concrete Cap Typical 8x8x16 Concrete Block Typical Fmbng 3. Cap piers. Place a cap on hollow block piers to evenly distribute the structural load. Use caps the same length and width as the piers they rest upon. When using split caps on double -stacked block piers, install the caps with the long dimension perpendicular to the joint in the blocks below and to the main (- beam. 4. Install shims. Use shims to level the home and fill any gaps between the base of the I-beam and the top of the pier cap. Always use shims in pairs (Figure 22). Drive them in tightly so they do not occupy more than one inch of vertical space. When the space to be shimmed is greater than one inch and less than the minimum thickness of available caps or concrete blocks, use hardwood dimensional lumber (two inches maximum thickness) or 2" or 4" thick concrete block. For split caps, install shims and dimensional lum- ber/blocks over each individual cap. 5. Set up level. Set up a water level with the fluid level at the desired height of the main piers. Carefully lower the side of the section down onto the leveled piers, adjusting the final height with shims. 5/25/2017 10:19 AM Figure 21. Frame pier con- struction Curing time of mortar. Where wet mortar is used to construct or level piers, al- low it to cure to at least 80% of strength capacity (usually requiring 96 hours) before setting the home. Figure 22. Correct shim placement Dimensions of masonry perimeter walls. If using a masonry perimeter enclosure, calculate pier heights so that the enclo- sure can be built using standard unit dimensions (without cutting). 12, lip N e M 39 USING A WATER LEVEL A water level is a standard device for leveling the home. The level consists of the following components: •--One-container (five -gallon bucket -or one gallon jug). • 150 feet of 1/2 inch diameter plastic tubing. Fittings for container to tubing. • Valve for terminal end of tubing. • Liquid for system: colored water in warm climates, windshield washing fluid in cold climates. How to use a water level a Position level.- Position the level such that it can reach all piers. b." Place container. Place the container so that the fluid `in the con- tainer is at the same level as the desired level of the top of the supports under the home, allowing=for any bracing,below the lev- el of the I -beams_ c. Uncoil tubing. Uncoil the tubing and fill with fluid, #aking care not to introduce bubbles into the hose. Never allow anything to crimp or crush the tubing so as to impede the free flow of fluid. d. "Bleed air. Hold the valve below`the level of the water container; open the valve to bleed out any air and close the valve. e. Establish height. Locate the tubing, adjacent to a pier that is set to the desired final height. Position the valve above the pier and open the valve. Move the water container up or down to where -the water level is at the desired final height of the, pier.. Maintain the water container in that position and close the valve. f. Level piers. Move the tubing to the next pier. Hold the valve above the pier and open it. Set the pier height to the level of the water in the tubing and close the valve. Repeat this step until all piers are at the same level. Complete the opposite side. Jack the other side of the section up and install piers following the instructions above. At the completion of this step, the sec- tion should be level from front to rear and from side to side. 7. Install perimeter and marriage line piers. Install perimeter piers and for multi -section homes, marriage line piers. Position marriage line piers to pro- vide equal bearing for both mating sections. 8. Remove running gear. Remove and store, recycle or properly dispose of the hitch, axles, and wheels. These items are the property of the homeowner un- less other contractual arrangements have been made. V 1!I ZA Level the home. The home is adequately leveled if there is no more than 1/4 inch differ- ence between adjacent pier supports (frame or perime- ter) and the exterior doors and windows of the home do not bind and can be properly operated. Water level operation. To operate the water level properly, both ends of the system must be open to the atmosphere and there must be approximately the same amount of fluid in the tubing at all times (within a few inches). • i •40 5l25l2017 10:19 AM • • 18 �— (2) [1.131" Gta x a;r Nails Figure 66. DWV pipe Min 2nO I,urnher optional support method fJ 121"Mx&IT"Nail C3_ v of Alum %TnP � � pr Pain. W. Lumber Protect pipes from freez- (2) 0.1 "01" Diu x Nails Into Floor Joist ing. If the home is to be left unheated in cold weather, 1 pour antifreeze solution into s SW;;- x 2" x) all drain traps, including o.s31,.�x �" asinks, tubs, and toilets. Be Nails Each EW sure that the antifreeze is i safe for the fixtures and P- ""�, tit) Staples or traps. Screws Earh Side �—alv ar Mlurr s�rp +� ,� Installing quick disconnect 4 fittings. Do not use tools, —P=tin. 2x3 Lumber lubricants, or sealants with quick disconnect fittings. Gas test precautions. Do 6. Insulate. Replace all insulation. not connect to gas service until tests described in STEP 6. CONNECT GAS LINES Connect Utilities have been The gas crossover connection may use quick disconnect fittings or threaded connect- successfully completed. ors. Find the connection location below the floor at the marriage line and gather the connectors (they may be shipped loose if not present under the home). For quick disconnect fittings (Figure 67), remove any dust caps and then with one hand, pull back on the quick disconnect device, snap it over the quick disconnect adap- tor and release it to complete the connection. For threaded connectors (Figure 68), remove the black cap and nipple (or any other plugs, such as a black iron plug) from both the supply and receiving sides and screw the connector onto the supply and return pipes as necessary. Check for leaks before connecting to gas service (see Connect Utilities, STEP 3. CONNECT GAS SERVICE, p. 86). Quids -Disconnect Figure 67. Gas crossover Male Filling Flex Factory Installed Shut-af valve with quick disconnect fittings I nstalled on Quids-DDisconnect Inlet Side Figure 68. Gas crossover Female Felting with threaded connectors Installed on Inlet Side Flex Connector Factory Installed Male Cap Female Cap Female Cap Or 77 Male Cap Installing wiring. When in- stalling telephone and ca- Direction of Gas Fbw Direction of Gas Flow ! ble television wires, do not damage electrical wires, i STEP 7. CONNECT TELEPHONE AND CABLE TV MIRING plumbing lines, ducts. D Serious personall injury or Install telephone and cable television wiring in accordance with the requirements of the death could result from LAHJ, the NEC, and NFPA No.70-2005. When making crossover connections or in- damage to electrical wires. 0 stalling telephone or cable television wires, do not run them in the same raceway as, or Z in close proximity to, high voltage electrical conductors or cables. Wires should only be installed by trained professionals. .:., m L:61 Figure 63. DWV system _p rain Dropo Pipe rain rain Dropout Supports opout Slo ust Cover bus F� Long Turn FJI C over 4ong Flo Slope Long Tum Tee Wye (SubsituteforElbouu lean -Out Plug Double FJl TumFJI andProvideaFull -Long Turn Ell y Size Clean Out When To SewedSeptic Required) 3. Test. Conduct a two-part leakage test on the completed drainage system as follows: • Part 1. With all fixtures connected, and all tub and shower drains plugged, fill the system with water to the rim of the toilet bowl through a higher fix- ture. Release all trapped air, replace tub and shower plugs, backfill fix- tures, and allow the system to stand at least 15 minutes. Check for leaks. Drain the system. If leaks are found, repair and retest. • Part 2. Plug all fixtures, sinks, showers, and tubs and fill with water. Re- lease the water in all fixtures simultaneously to obtain the maximum pos- sible drain piping flow. As water is draining, check for leaks. If any are found, repair and retest. 4. Connect to outlet. Connect the main drain line to the site sewer/septic hook- up, using an approved elastomeric coupling (Figure 64). Drain Drain NWJ FloorS6ff drop -out drop -out ° Examples orHookUp ° Strap support Connection Pipe ° 4 feet on center and Fittings (NoShipping Shipping Supplied by thyy cap ,` ocap �I_ Manufacturerupport Strap at ° Maximum of 4°eet on Center o ap and Chain pproved Field installed, slope oupler 1l4 inch perfoot ite Sewer 5. Install supports. Install permanent drain line supports at a distance of four feet o.c. or less (see Figure 62, Figure 64, Figure 65 and Figure 66). Z O H J H Z 64 Z&O AAAAA Choosing glues. Use only solvents and glues compat- ible with the pipe (ABS or PVC). Follow manufactur- er's instructions. Figure 64. DWV connection to sewedseptic Figure 65. DWV pipe • support method 5/25/2017 10:19 AM l • Complete Multi -Section Set This chapter covers the preparation and installation of additional home sections, including the structural connections be - STEP 1. INSTALL MARRIAGE LINE ANCHORS (p. 41) `V STEP 2. REMOVE PROTECTIVE SHIPPING MATERIALS (p. 41) STEP 3. COMPLETE HINGED ROOF (p. 41) STEP 4. REPAIR OR INSTALL MARRIAGE LINE GASKET (p. 44) STEP 5. POSITION ADDITIONAL HOME SECTIONS (p. 45) STEP 6. CONNECT FLOORS (p. 46) STEP 7. CONNECT ROOF (p. 47) STEP 8. CONNECT WALLS (p. 50) STEP 9. ATTACH TAG UNITS (p. 52) V STEP 10. REMOVE TEMPORARY ITEMS (p. 53) STEP 11. FASTEN HOME TO:FOUNDATION (p. 53) STEP12. BACKFILL AND GRADE (p. 53) -V STEP 13. BUILD STAIRS (p. 53) STEP 1. INSTALL MARRIAGE LIME ANCHORS If the home is in Wind Zone II or III, install ground anchors along the marriage line now; � before mating sections are joined see Install Stabilizing System (p. 68). After in- A stalling marriage line anchors return to this point in Complete Multi -Section Set. Position roof jacks. Posi- 2. REMOVE PROTECTIVE SHIPPING MATERIALS tionSTEP jacks vertically to kick - vent vent the jack foot from kick - Remove Remove all shipping protection and associated fasteners from both home sections to ing out or sliding. be joined, including plastic used to close up the open sides during transportation. Do Caution during roof rais- not remove the temporary supports holding up the ceilings at major openings. ing. Do not enter the roof cavity during the raising STEP 3. COMPLETE HINGED ROOF procedure. If the home has a hinged roof that has been folded down for shipping, raise the roof us- Checklists for alternate ing a crane or roof jacks following the procedure below: construction. If the serial 1. Position lift points. Position the roof lift points (jacks or crane lift points) fol- number (see the data plate lowing the jack manufacturer or crane operator instructions. Space roof lift or the chassis front cross points equally along the length of the roof with no more than five feet from the member) has the letters end of the roof to the first or last lift points. Use three lift points for a roof up to "AC" before or after it, then 48 feet long (excluding overhangs), four lift points for up to 60 feet, and five lift the Alternate Construction points for up to 76 feet. on -site check list supplied 2. Remove fasteners. Remove any temporary fasteners connecting the hinged with the home must be completed and returned to portion of the roof to the vertical king posts. the home manufacturer in a 3. Lift roof. Raise the roof to its intended height. A temporary slight overexten- timely manner. If the AC • - 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 41 Q l'— rn Z MA Sion may be required during lifting. However, take care not to overextend the roof and damage the hinge. Raise the roof evenly in small increments, keep- ing it level throughout the entire process to prevent racking. Do not allow roof- ing paper and shingles to get caught in the hinge crease. 4. Secure king posts. Position the hinged king posts atop the fixed king posts or against the wooden stop (Figure 23). The king posts are hinged to the un- derside of the hinged -truss top chord. Position them as needed to level the roof, aligning each hinged king post with the king post directly beneath it, and securing in place using straps, sheathing and fasteners as shown in Figure 24, Figure 25, Figure 26 and Table 15 and Table 16. Ridgebeam 3/e' min. x 15 3/4' x V-0' long rated sheathing at each end of roof. Fasten to hinged king past with 7/16' x 1 I x 16 ga. staples at 4' oe. Fixed king post End View Nailing plak (see detail/ Altemah I—tion TABLE 15. HINGED ROOF KING POST STRAP SPECIFICATIONS post t SpacingFastener I Type Size Wind Zone I Wind Zone 11 Wind Zone III King post strap 1-1/ 9a�9ex 26 Every third rafter Every rafter Every rafter 777=- 6echInea6aacinea,�6h in each Staple Into strap eni au a end end: ` �. 99�n TABLE 16. HINGED ROOF PLATE CONNECTION SPECIFICATIONS Toe -screw thru l #S x 3" wood hinged king screw none 1 2 per knee brace 4 per knee brace post Gonnecttng lx 8812'112 A4ows at;7--1/2 ' plates hall. In _P 2 rows at 771/2 in",.2 rows at 5-112 in checklist relates to the roof, then failure to do so may require future disassembly of the roof and further in- spections.- - Figure 23. Hinged Roof Truss (drawing is typical, ac- tual configuration may vary) Figure 24. Connection of Hinged King Post to Fixed King Post Figure 25. Toe -Screw at 1x Plates MAT n u • • 0 n �J 01 STEP 4. CONNECT WATER TES Connect water lines inside the floor through access panels or below the bottom board as follows: WATER LINES ACCESSED THROUGH PANELS 1. Remove panels. Remove access panels from each home section. 2. Remove caps. Remove shipping caps from ends of water lines. 3. Pull lines. Pull water lines through holes in rim joist. If holes are not provided, drill round holes in the center of the rim joist, with a maximum diameter of one third the rim joist depth (Figure 61). 4. Connect pipes. Connect threaded water lines using provided connector fit- tings (do not use lubricants or sealants). Connect non -threaded water lines using provided fittings and cement, inserting pipe to full depth of each fitting (a short connector pipe may be provided to bridge the gap between sections). 5. Test. Test connections for leaks. 6. Seal floor. Securely replace insulation and access panels. STEP 5. CONNECT DRAIN, WASTE, AND VENT LINES Complete portions of the drain, waste, and vent (DWV) system that are below the floor as follows: 1. Remove caps. Remove shipping covers from pipes extending through the bottom board; inspect pipes and fittings and clean them of dirt, obstructions, and burrs. 2. Assemble pipes. Using the drain schematic drawing provided with the home, begin assembling the DWV system starting at the location farthest from the sewer/septic connection and working towards the outlet, fastening the pipe with cement or adjustable screw -clamp connectors, if provided (Figure 62). As the system is assembled, support the piping with temporary blocking. Un- less otherwise noted on the schematic diagram, provide a minimum 1/4 inch per foot slope towards the sewer/septic using a plumber's level. Where a slope of 1/4 inch per foot cannot be maintained, use a minimum slope of 118 inch per foot and install of a full-size clean -out at the uppermost point of the run (Figure 63). Cement Couprmg (Provided) W End of Pipes 7 448upport Straps Drain Pipe F I <— Faslen ColpNM D'lrecfion of Row and Slope Dvectlon of Flow and Slope (Rovided) to Piping Coupling Whh Clangs onnection Pipe Coupler Z ZZ Applying cement. Follow cement manufacturers in- structions with respect to application and drying time. Allow cement to fully cure before filling pipes with wa- ter. Choosing cement type. Use the proper cement for water lines as it may differ from the cement used for the DWV system. Figure 61. Waterline cross- over with access panels PF r I V&*/Z Providing required clear- ances. Provide the drain outlet with a minimum clearance of three inches in any direction from all parts of the structure or any ap- purtenances and with not less than 18 inches unre- stricted clearance directly in front of the drain outlet. Provide any cleanouts with a minimum clearance of 12 inches directly in front of its opening. Figure 62. Drain crossover connection AN �RI z O H J U) z 62 bumped -out access panel, drill maximum one -inch diameter hole(s) half -way up the rim joists on each home section, making sure the holes align and feed the wire through the hole. they become separated. Protect cables. Cover all cables with conduit or other • 7/16" x 12" x 12" rated sheathing fastened to plate with 2-rows of Ilaolelweatnerzreststant- — -- gpos — — - ^scribed above. and protective material. i 4. Secure wires. Secure wires with staples to adjacent joists or studs within King post eight inches of junction box or snap-connector(s). strap 5. Install smash plates. For notched perimeter joists, install steel wire protec- tors (smash plates). I 6. Seal bottom board. Replace insulation and re -install access panels and/or j Double lfplate or (see table for seal the bottom board with tape specially made for that purpose (may be pro - Fixed king connections) vided). The access panel(s) may be temporarily installed near the crossover post location or shipped loose with the home. asket Figure 58. Electrical crosso- ver floor wires with flush ac- _ Hale Through cess panels t t Rim Joist r L_—__-i Junction Box or I f Joists Are Mtched, Steel Protectors May Snap -Connector Be Provided With the Home • l I I I �BeePel May Provided Figure 59. Floor electrical _ crossover wires with bumped -out access panel Box a Smp Comacta Protecthe Cove (If Na Pmvided Patch Batton Band.) STEP 3. INSTALL ELECTRICAL BONDING To ensure all metal parts are effectively grounded, electrically bond all chassis togeth- er as follows (Figure 60): 1. Find lugs. Locate solderless ground lugs on the front or rear frame outriggers or headers. 2. Attach wire. Uncoil the bonding wire (#8 minimum bare copper wire) from one side of the home and connect it to the lug provided on the opposing side. Tighten the set screw firmly on the wire and repeat for any additional home sections. (Bonding Wire may be shipped loose) Figure 60. Electrical bonding Line of multi -section homes it Outrigger at J L#8 Min. Copper ',,_Soldedess Lug Each Marriage Line Ground blue Half of Home • • Ridgebeam Ridge — members 5. Ridge filler option. If the roof has a ridge filler to finish the roof peak as shown in Figure 27, care should be taken to insure that the hinged rafter de- sign can accommodate the additional loads imposed by the ridge filler. Fas- ten ledger to hinged top chord as shown in Figure 28. Ridge filler section rafters are not required to align with main unit rafters. Wood filler shims up to 1 inch thick may be installed between ridge filler assembly and ledger to facili- tate proper fit but fastener lengths must be increased accordingly. Fasten ridge filler section together as shown in Figure 29. Roof ridge filler Fasten roof sheathing within 8' of ledgedridge filler joint with 1' x 1' x 16 ga. or 7/16' x 1 1/4' x 16 ga. staples at max 1' o.c. —7 tMin. 8' Min. 8' Roof sheathing Roof ridge filler framing Fasten ridge framing to 2 x 4 ledger fastened ledger with #8 x 3' wood to hinged top chord. screws or. 1310 dia. x 3' nails at 12' o.c. max. 6. Roof sheathing. Fasten roof sheathing with 1" x 1-1/4" x 16 ga. or 7/16" x 1- 1/4" x 16 ga. staples at 6 inches maximum at panel edges and 12 inches max- imum at intermediate rafters. See Figure 28 for increased fastening on either side of joint if roof has the ridge filler option. Min. 4 - #8 x 3' wood screws or 4 - .131' dia. x 3' nails (ridge filler) through section rafters (typical at each side of the sfope). 4 - .131' dia. x 3' nai$ (ddga firer) through section rafters (typical at each side of the slope). Figure 26. King Post and Plate Connections Figure 27. Ridge Filler Op- tion for Hinged Roof Figure 28. Ridge Filler Con- nection to Hinged Top Chord Figure 29. Ridge Filler Sec- tion Connection 43 7. Redistribute Insulation. Before closing up the attic space check that the in- sulation has not shifted. Re -level the insulation if needed. 8. Install gable walls. Install the gable end walls for each home section as fol- lows (Figure 30): • Studs: Install minimum 1x3 (flat) studs 16 inches o.c. and fasten to truss top and bottom chords and diagonals with (2) 7/16" x 2" x 16 ga. staples or 6d nails and; • Sheathing: Install sheathing or siding with 7/16" x 1-1/2" x 16 ga. staple or 6d nail at 6 inches o.c. At least two edges of each piece of sheathing must be supported by framing members. • House wrap: Plant -supplied house wrap material must be installed over any rated sheathing undedayment as a weather -resistive barrier to pre- vent contact with any lap siding. Material may be secure with sufficient staples or tape to hold in place until exterior siding is applied. end sheathing lg 9. Install vents. Extend plumbing vents, exhaust fans, appliance vents, and fire- place stacks through the hinged portion of the roof in strict accordance with this manual (Prepare Appliances and Equipment, p. 89) and/or supple- mental instructions provided by the home manufacturer. STEP 4. REPAIR OR INSTALL MARRIAGE LINE GASKET A continuous, non -porous gasket creating a permanent air barrier must be installed on at least one side of the marriage line; along the floor, end walls and ceiling (along top or bottom of ridgebeam) and marriage lines for any tag units. The manufacturer has provided a marriage line gasket either installed on the home or shipped loose. If in- stalled, inspect the gasket and repair any gaps or tears. If not installed at the factory, install a continuous gasket between the home sections along the floor, end walls, and ceiling (Figure 31). For homes with through -the -rim crossover ducts, see supplemental details for the proper connection at the marriage line. 44 Figure 30. End Wall Com- pletion ! ZZA Inspecting vents. Fuel fired heating appliance and fire- place vents that pass through a hinged roof must be completed and inspect- ed at the site prior to ener- gizing the appliance or oc- cupying the home. Failure to comply with this precau- tion may result in serious injury or death. Venting systems must be installed in conformance with the appliance manufacturer's instructions and any in- structions supplied with the home. Installing marriage line gasket. Special care should be taken to ensure that the marriage line gas- ket is tight to resist air infil- tration and minimize con- densation. :Z] • r • • with foam or mastic. 9. Support duct. Support the crossover duct(s) above the ground using nylon or galvanized metal straps and saddles or by other means that are spaced every 48 inches o.c. or less. Choose straps at least 1/2 inch wider than the spacing of -the metal spirals encasingthe crossover duct. Install the straps so they cannot slip between spirals. Secure metal straps with galvanized screws. STEM 2. CONNECT ELECTRICAL CROSSOVERS Multi -section homes may have one or more electrical crossovers located in the wall(s) and/or floor(s) along the marriage line(s). JOINING WIRES Two types of connections may be present at these locations —snap connectors and junction boxes. Identify matching circuits if multiple circuits exist at a single crossover location. These will be coded for identification. Connect snap connectors according to the connector manufacturer's installation instructions, including fastener requirements. Connect wires in junction boxes as follows (Figure 57): Pull wires. Pull circuit wires into the junction box, sliding them through a romex con- nector and secure snugly. (Figure 57) Do not over -tighten. 1. Strip wires. Remove the outer jacket that holds the circuit wires together providing a minimum of four inches of free wire in the box. 2. Connect wires. Connect wires together matching like colors, using appropri- ately sized wire nuts. Use the ground wire to ground the junction box and/or cover plate(s), if metal. Junction boxes may contain single or multiple 15 or 20-amp circuits, or a single 240-volt appliance circuit. 3. Replace cover. Reposition the junction box cover and secure using machine (not sheet metal) screws. 'wed P las is NBmI Box (Ty PI.O s PerType sad (rypical) Single 15 or 20 AMP Circuit ants and tapes only to sur- faces that are dry and free of dust, dirt, and grease. Avoid ground contact. In- stalled crossover ducts must not be in contact with the ground. Unobstructed airflow. Ex- cess length, kinks and bends in the crossover duct will restrict airflow and de- grade the home's HVAC system performance. Use qualified electricians. All electrical work must be performed by a qualified electrician and comply with the 2005 NEC. Disconnect power. Turn off power to the home before making connections. Proper use of GFCI cir- cuits. Ensure Ground Fault Circuit Interrupted (GFCI) circuits are connected to the proper GFCI protected circuits from the power supply. Figure 57. Types of junction box wiring connections ppmed Connector App—d Connectxs WNIe whit= /9 lack Red L( wttim Ground Grouts jRW6 ffi round G. Ground g WNb Ne lack round I. lack ound Lug Md.] Boxes Onty) ound Lug fdetal Boxes Only) Double 15 or20 AMP Circuits FLOOR CROSSOVER When making electrical connection(s) in the floor, use the wiring method described be- low: 1. Access wires. Find the crossover location(s) and remove the access panel(s) if attached. If access panel openings are not provided, cut through bottom board to expose the wiring (Figure 58). 2. Route wires. Pass the wires through predrilled holes or notches in the rim joist or if there is a single bumped -out access panel as in Figure 59, then un- der the rim joists. If holes or notches have not been provided and there is no 5/25/2017 10:1 240V Appliance Circuit Using snap connectors. Do not use oversized nails or drive nail heads into snap connectors. Some con- nectors are designed for one-time use only — a new connector must be used if a m 141111111111 61 Furnace I Au A Section I I I nZ—`1 B Section Heat Duct—� Tap -Out Collar Flex Duct Field -Installed Flex Duct Support Straps Furnace /Air A Section Handler B Section Floor Heat D Tap -Out Collar Field -Installed Flex Duct Flex Duct Support Straps "V°-Box Under Furnace Heat Duct--" Tap -Out Collar — Field -Installed Flex Duct A Section Heat Duct Tap -Out Collar — Field -Installed Flex Duct Tap -Out Collar - Y-Connector Furnace I Air Handler - - B Section Furnace I Air Handler C Section For under floor flexible crossover ducts follow the steps below: 1. Locate collars. Locate the metal crossover collars (or V-box) connected to the main trunk duct (or furnace) under the home and remove temporary ship- ping protection. 2. Install inner duct. Slide the crossover duct inner liner over the crossover col- IarN-box as far as it will go. Temporarily fasten the inner liner in place with duct tape. Install a large nylon zip -tie over the inner liner just above the "ridge' around the crossover collarN-box. Apply mastic completely over inner liner and collarN-box (alternately, the mastic may be applied to the collarN-box prior to sliding the duct inner liner over it). 3. Connect duct insulation. Bring the duct insulation up over the zip -tie and above the home's bottom board into the floor cavity. Temporarily duct tape it against the base of the trunk ductIV-box. 4. Pull duct wrap. Pull the crossover duct outer wrap over the top of the insula- tion and temporarily secure it to the trunk duct/V-box with duct tape. 5. Install zip -tie. Feel for the nylon zip -tie that was installed over the inner liner. Place another nylon zip -tie just under the first one to permanently secure the crossover duct insulation and outer wrap. 6. Trim duct. Trim the crossover duct to length such that the installed duct will be straight with no kinks or unnecessary bends. 7. Connect other end. Follow the same procedure (steps 1 through 5) to con- nect the opposite end of the crossover duct and any other crossover ducts. 8. Seal joints. Seal the joints between the bottom board and the crossover duct Figure 53. Furnace over Figure 31. Marriage Line trunk duct, two home sec- A Gasket Installation tions 0 i Figure 54. Furnace offset C from trunk duct two home e sections B Marriage line gasket I Ridgebeam Figure 55. Furnace over or filler chord Floor decking trunk duct, three home sec - Interior i tions panel 2- maz. I I 1' max. - 0°min. 2' maz. Fes-- i I I Figure 56. Furnace offset section A -A section B -B section C-C from trunk duct, three home sections ' STEP 5. POSITION ADDITIONAL HOME SECTIONS Follow this procedure to install additional home sections: • • 1. Remove obstructions. Remove protruding nails and staples or anything else that will keep the home sections from fitting together snugly. If present, cut the temporary ceiling and floor plates at the edges of marriage line openings tak- Mechanical post- I ing care not to damage ceiling or floor coverings or displace temporary mar- tioning system. For a pier- j riage line support posts (these supports and the plates will be removed after set home, a mechanical the home sections have been structurally connected). positioning system (such as 2. Complete crossovers. Before moving the two sections together, complete a roller system) will make j Securing the I any crossover connections that require access from the open marriage line, the process easier and saf- crossover. Between Step including the attic duct connection (if present) and marriage wall interior elec- er and be less likely to 5 and Step 6, drill three or trical connections (see Connect Crossovers, p.59). damage the home. more 1/16 inch holes an 3. Position section. Position the section as closely as possible (ideally within equal distance around and six inches) and line up with the previously set section. If using a mechanical just below the bottom edge positioning system or crane, follow the system manufacturers instructions or of the nylon zip -tie. Install the crane operators directions. #12 pan head screws in 4. Construct piers. With the outside walls of the home aligned, construct the Sealing gaps. Prior to com- 11P these holes, through the piers for the home section according to the instructions in Set the Home (p. pletion of the exterior close- flexible duct and into the j 35) before continuing to the steps below. up, gaps that do not exceed metal crossover collar/V- one inch are permitted be- us box. The screw heads 5. Level section. Lower the section onto the outside piers first, inside piers last. --; Before releasing the mechanical positioning system, check interior doorways tween structural elements y should be against the zip- provided that the gaps are r' and other openings for misalignments that may cause problems during trim- r tie. closed before completion of out. The floors should be flush, level, and tight and the roof section should close-up, the home sec- $ have little, if any, gap at the top of the marriage line. Use at least two come -a- tions are in contact with r longs to pull the sections snugly together and use the water level or other lev- eling device to set all piers and shims. each other, and the mar- rage gasket provides a Cover exposed metal. proper 6. Shim gaps. Shim any gaps up to one inch betweeh structural elements with p p er seal. C dimensional lumber. If any gaps exceed one inch, re -position the home to Completely cover all ex- eliminate such gaps. r� posed metal connectors with insulation. Apply seal- I 5/25/2017 10:19 AM • 5/25/2017 10:19 AM 45 STEP 6. CONNECT FLOORS Make floor structural connections according to one of the methods described below. Method 1: Install toed fasteners through bottom board or floor decking Install fasteners at approximately a 45 degree angle (+/- 5 degrees) from horizontal as shown in Figure 32 using the fastener type, size, and spacing indicated on Table 17. Install fasteners as indicated, making sure to repair any openings in the bottom board with tape specially made for that purpose (may be provided). TABLE 17. FLOOR CONNECTION FASTENING SPECIFICATIONS Increase fastener lengths by 3 inches for double rim joists. Stagger fasteners on either side of marriage line and offset them by half the spacing distance (Figure 33). i Connect Crossovers This chapter covers crossover connections between units of multi -section homes, including ducts and electrical, water, Patch bottom waste, gas, telephone, and cable TV connections. board. Use adhesive spray, mastic, and/or diver- gent staples in combination with bottom board tape for a more secure and durable STEP 1. CONNECT DUCTS (p. 59) connection. j STEP 2. CONNECT ELECTRICAL CROSSOVERS (p. 61) . STEP 3. INSTALL ELECTRICAL BONDING (p. 62) STEP 4. CONNECT WATER LINES (p. 63) Figure 32. Floor connection. STEP 5, CONNECT, DRAIN, WASTE, AND VENT LINES (p. 63)- through bottom board or floor decking STEP 6. CONNECT GAS LINES (p. 65) STEP 7 CONNECT TELEPHONE AND CABLE TV WIRING (p.a 65) FastenerLocatbn Figure 33. Staggered offset Marriage Line fastening along marriage line Half Z Spacing Spacing + A From Table • Lag specification. Spacing diameter lags used to From Table connect pressure -treated Spacing From lumber (ie connecting porch Table Spacing rim joists) shall be hot - Half ` From dipped galvanized. Lags spacing Table that are'/V or larger • diameter are not required to be hot -dipped galvanized. Method 2: Install horizontal fasteners through rim joist Insert 3/8" x 3" lag screws spaced per Table 18 horizontally though rim joists and stag- gered top to bottom as in Figure 34. After installation of fasteners, repair tears or holes in the bottom board using tape specially made for that purpose. TABLE 18. HORIZONTAL RIM JOIST FASTENER SPACING • • 46 5/25/2017 10:19 AM • STEP 1. CONNECT DUCTS There are three main types of duct crossover connections. Based on the location of the duct, follow the installation steps on the page indicated below: • Under the floor (p. 59). • In the roof cavity (See supplemental details). • In floor, through -the -rim joist (See supplemental details). To prevent air leakage, seal all ductwork connections, including duct collars using one or more of the following materials: • Galvanized metal straps in combination with galvanized sheet metal screws. • For rigid air ducts and connectors, tape and mastics listed to UL 181A. • For flexible air ducts and connectors, tape and mastics listed to UL 181 B. UNDER FLOOR FLEXIBLE CROSSOVER DUCT When heating or cooling equipment is installed in the home, the flexible crossover duct is provided by the manufacturer. In all cases the crossover duct must be listed for exte- rior use. The duct must be suspended or supported above the ground by straps or other means that are spaced at a maximum distance not to exceed 4'-0" or as other- wise permitted by the installation instructions. There are four common configurations of under floor crossover ducts depending on the number of home sections and the furnace/air handler location. See Table 25 to locate the appropriate figure. TABLE 25. UNDER FLOOR DUCT CONFIGURATIONS 5/25/2017 10:19 AM Jr zz Qualified personnel. Use only qualified personnel to make crossover connec- tions. Consult the LAHJ for licensing or any additional crossover connection re- quirements. Access for service. When- ever possible maintain ac- cess to connection areas for future maintenance. Make tight connections. Permanent, durable, and tight crossover duct con- nections are critical to the proper performance of the home. Leaky ducts can re- sult in severe moisture problems in the home, dis- comfort from rooms not re- ceiving the proper amount of conditioned air, and high utility bills from wasted heating and/or cooling en- ergy. IP "A E Main Unit Roof Decking Metal Flashing (Or Top Ccurse Of Vinyl Siding) Roof Decking ngles hingles Tag Unit STEP 3. COMPLETE SIDE WALLS Siding necessary to complete the exterior has been provided with the home. Follow the siding manufacturer's instructions (found on or with the packaging or as an addendum to this manual) and to complete the exterior siding as follows: 1. Remove shipping protection. Remove temporary shipping protection from walls. 2. Complete crossovers. Complete any crossover connections in the walls, in- cluding: electrical, stereo speaker, doorbell, telephone, and intercom wires. 3. Install siding. Fasten siding only at stud locations, avoiding electrical wires that are present in the walls. 4. Install close-up of strips. If siding has been installed on the end walls at the factory, fasten close-up strips securely along both edges and seal the edges with a waterproof sealant. 5. Install trim. Install any matching trim required to complete the installation. 6. Seal penetrations. With a waterproof sealant, seal any penetrations in the sid- ing that may have been caused by temporary shipping protection. IMPORTANT: Where a porch meets the exterior wall of an adjacent section or where a porch extends across multiple sections of a home, it may be necessary to install weath- er resistive materials, such as flashings or sealants, to protect exterior coverings and re- sist the infiltration of air or water. Methods and materials used to be in accordance with local building codes and meet the requirements of the LAHJ. • ® © e o.e �• a a H H to Z 58 Figure 52. Tag unit offset roof connection Covering the HUD label. Do not cover the HUD la- bel on the exterior of the home. Removing shipping pro- tection. Remove tempo- rary shipping protection from walls before installing siding or serious moisture damage may result. Is • Marriage Line Floor) Fastener Decking Marriage Rim Joists Along Line Gasket Marriage Line Fastener Staggered At Next Spacinq Interval STEP 7. CONNECT ROOF If the marriage line along the roof is not snug, position jacks every 20 feet or less along the outside I-beam and uniformly lift the section until the roof area is tight. Check to make sure the ceiling joint is flush before installing the connections. If not, use a jack and tee to raise whichever ceiling is low, starting at the front and working to the rear of the home. Fasten the roof along the marriage line using one of the methods below for either double or triple -section homes. DOUBLE -SECTION HOMES Make roof structural connections in double -section homes according to the one of the methods described below. Method 1: Install toed fasteners through roof sheathing Install the fasteners through the roof deck into the ridge beams or filler chords at an approximately 45 degree angle (+/- 5 degrees) from horizontal (Figure 35) according to the fastener spacing and specifications in Table 19. Stagger fasteners on each side of marriage line and offset them by half the spacing distance (Figure 33). Spacing indi- cated is on -center, both sides of ridge. Make sure fasteners penetrate the ridge beam/ filler chords by a minimum of 1-1/2 inches both sides of ridge. For homes with TJI ridgebeam next to the roof peak, see Method 2 instead. If the TJI ridgebeam is located lower in the attic cavity and filler chords are at the peak, then Method 1 may still be used. Im TABLE 19. ROOF CONNECTIONS SPECIFICATIONS Spacing Lag screw 3/8" x 6" Wind Zone III I 36 in. 20 in. 16 in. Fasteners in' ; roof cap 1 x 1-1/4" x 16 gauge staples 3 In: for 14-wide _ max. or 2 @ 2-1/2 6 in. 1 for 16=wide max. t x _� 6 in. ►LIIiALO Figure 34. Horizontal fas- teners through rim joists ZZ &* Closing the roof gap. Level and fasten the marriage line joint at the floor before jacking to tighten a roof gap. Close up any gaps with shims. DO NOT use roof fasteners to close any gaps. Separation of the ridge beams and trusses may occur. Ridgebeam type. It is im- portant to use the correct fastening method depend- ing on the ridgebeam type. Use of Method 1 with a TJI ridgebeam can cause struc- tural damage to the beam. Figure 35. Toed fasteners through roof sheathing 11 47 • Select metal caps made of minimum 8" x 32 ga. galvanized steel or 0.019" aluminum. • Install caps continuously, overlapping by minimum of four inches at splices. • Fasten caps with galvanized staples on both sides of ridge according to the specifications and spacing in Table 19. Method 2: Install straps over roof sheathing If the home is built with a TJI ridgebeam at the peak of the roof, straps must be used to secure the roof sections together rather than lag bolts. The straps will already be in- stalled at the factory at the spacing shown in Table 20 and Figure 36. If the straps were not installed or if they are damaged see Table 20 for specified size and spacing of the straps. The straps need not be galvanized. For factory -installed straps bend the straps up before the sections are placed together. After sections are in final position, bend the straps back down on top of the roof sheath- ing and secure the ends of the strap as shown in Table 20. TABLE 20. ROOF MATING LINE STRAPS .- Straps 1-1/2gw�i9e x 26 48 in 24 in 16 in 7/16"(or1 )x1 Staples= 6 each 6 each 4 each 112" x 16 gauged- J Nails 0.082" x 1-1/2" 9 each 9 each ( 7 each * Special eave tie -down connections have been installed at the factory that permit most Wind Zone I homes to be installed without the straps and anchors at the marriage line (i.e. "G-straps) that are typically required to resist uplift. Underlayment Roof 3e beam t /!Y*1F ZA istalling lags. If lags are used to connect roofs, use appropriately sized wash- ers, countersink the fasten- er heads and fill the coun- tersink holes with putty or caulk to prevent shingles from sinking into the holes over time. Figure 36. Roof Strapping for TJI Ridgebeam • • is • - section below. FLUSH ROOFS For flush roofs, complete roofing along the marriage line and at the valley line as follows =L;;Shingle Underlayment Install Flashing (Or Additional Layer Of Underayment) Flat OverJoint Marriage line Method 1: Install metal flashing (minimum 30 ga x minimum 6" wide) over the joint between the main roof dormer and tag unit roof. Secure the flashing to the roof decks on both dormer and tag unit roofs with roofing nails or 16 ga staples with a one inch crown and long enough to fully penetrate the roof decks. Space fasteners maximum two inches o.c. near the edge of the flashing. Overlap seams in the metal by at least two inches. After flashing is complete, install shingles per shingle manu- facturer instructions and ridge cap/vent according to STEP 1. COMPLETE ROOF (p. 54). Method 2: Install two layers of roofing underlayment or equivalent over the joint be- tween the main roof dormer and tag unit roof lapping the factory installed underlay- ment a minimum of six inches on each side and fully cemented at the laps. Install shingles per shingle manufacturer instructions and ridge cap/vent according to STEP 1. COMPLETE ROOF (p. 54). Valley line Along the bottom of the valley, shingles and one or more layers of roll roofing may need to be installed. If fastened to the roof at the factory, unroll the roofing, overlap the tag roof and trim the roofing to the roof edge. If shipped loose, install the roll roofing at the valley, lapping it under the factory installed roll roofing a minimum of 12 inches and fully cement the roofing at the lap. Complete shingles at the valley either by interweaving them or by trimming back approximately four inches from the valley line and fully ce- menting the exposed shingle edges. OFFSET ROOFS If there is a gap between the main unit dormer overhang and the tag unit roof, bend up the inside corner trim at the dormer overhang and main unit sidewall, fold up the factory installed flashing on the tag unit roof, fold the inside corner trim back down, and secure into dormer wall with metal screws (Figure 52). 17 10:19 AM Figure 51. Tag unit flush roof connection i1a 57 the underlayment of the center section on top of the cement (see Best Practice tip for optional metal flashing). Fold down the center section roof underlayment on this cement. 3. Install shingles. Install missinq row(s) of shingles, securina them Der the shin - Center Section Outer Section Figure 49. Triple -section roof connection Method 1 Factory -Installed Shingles Field -Installed Shingles Factory -Installed _Shingles �� Asphalt rig Cement Between Layers of Underlaymenmen t Min 6" Wide (Optional) Fastener Method 2: Field -installed sheathing 1. Install underlayment. Fold down the underlayment of the outer section roof and fold up the underlayment on the center section roof. Apply to the lower roof underlayment a minimum six-inch wide strip of roofing cement centered on the sheathing joint. Cover with the shipped loose underlayment. Apply another min- imum six-inch wide strip of roofing cement to the ship loose underlayment cen- tered on the upper roof sheathing joint. 2. Install shingles. Install missing row(s) of shingles per the shingle manufactur- er's installation instructions (refer to the shingle wrapper). Figure 50. Triple -section Factory -instated Shingles roof connection Method 2 Field -Installed Field -Installed Underlayment Shingles Field -Installed Sheathing Asphalt Roofing Cement Between Layers of Underlayment Min. 6" Wide. Factory -Installed ed •i Shingles 4Factory-Installed Underlayment Z O f— 't Q Factory -Installed Sheathing ~ Factory -Installed Nailer z STEP 2. COMPLETE TAG UNIT ROOF If the home has a tag unit, complete roofing for this unit now. The process for completing the roof is different for flush and offset roofs. Follow the instructions in the appropriate 17 10:19 AM TRIPLE -SECTION HOMES For triple -section homes where roof lines run parallel to each other on adjacent units _ --(Figure 38 follow the 'I�r str_uctio_gs_io th__e appLopdate_rnethod-eloAtoco __e t_he connections at the roof. Method 1: Install fasteners through pre -installed sheathing For homes where sheathing is in place on both sides of the marriage line (Figure 37) install fasteners from the low side of the roof on an angle so as to penetrate roof beams or filler chords on both sides of marriage line, using the fastener specifications and spacing indicated on Table 21. For homes with TJI ridgebeam next to the roof sheath- ing, see Method 2 instead. If the TJI ridgebeam is located lower in the attic cavity and filler chords are at the sheathing, then Method 1 may still be used. Center Section Outer Section Factory -Installed Underlayment Factory -Installed Shingles Field -Installed Shingles Factory -Installed Shingles Asphalt Roofirig Cement Between Layers of Underlayment Min6"Wide C • • Metal (Optional) Fastener • .` TABLE 21. ROOF CONNECTION SPECIFICATIONS Install a roof cap as follows: • Select metal caps made of minimum 8" x 32 ga galvanized steel or 0.019" aluminum. • Install caps continuously, overlapping by minimum of four inches at splices. • Fasten caps with galvanized staples both sides of ridge according to the specification and spacing in Table 21. Figure 37.Triple -section roof connection Method 1 Figure 38.Triple-section home I 49 Method 2: Install straps over roof sheathing If home is built with a TJI ridgebeam, roof straps must be used to secure the roof sec- tions-together-at-the-marriage.line..rather_than_lagbolts. The straps will already -be -in- stalled at the factory at the spacing shown in Table 22 and Figure 39. If the straps were not installed or if they are damaged, see Table 22 for specified size and spacing of the straps. The straps need not be galvanized. For factory -installed straps, bend the straps up before the sections area placed togeth- er. After sections are in final position, bend the straps back down on top of the roof sheathing and secure the ends of the strap as shown in Table 22. TABLE 22. ROOF MATING LINE Straps 1-1/2" wiiddee x 26 I 48 in 24 in i 16 in gau Nails 1 0.082" x 1-1/2" 1 9 each 9 each 1 7 each Complete the marriage line by installing the roof cap in a similar method to that shown for the Double -Section homes in Table 19. Shingles Roof cap Undedayment�\ Alt. undedayment IocaCpn Bend up straps (one end of Rafter king strap applied at factory). post Ridgebeam web ' STEP 8. CONNECT WALLS Once the home is secured along the marriage line floor and roof, secure end walls, in- terior doorways, and marriage line partitions according to the appropriate method de- 4 scribed below: Z O END WALLS 1- Install toed fasteners through sheathing Toe fasteners through sheathing from the exterior at an approximately 45 degree angle Q (+/- 5 degrees) (Figure 40) according to the fastener specifications and spacing re- quirements in Table 23. Z 6111 Figure 39. Triple -section roof connection (method 2) • • L' 0 3. Install underlayment. Install 15# felt or equivalent underlayment that is at least 10 inches wide continuously along the ridge. Fasten with 1" x 1" x 16 ga galva- nized staples. For Wind Zones II and III, also apply a six inch wide strip of roof- ing cement on both sides of the ridge under the underlayment. 4. Install shingle cap. Starting at the opposite end of the home from the prevail- ing wind, install ridge cap shingles provided by the manufacturer or use 12" x 12" shingles (36" shingles cut into three equal pieces) (Figure 47). Install using 1" x 1" x 16 ga galvanized staples or 12 ga 1-1/4" long, 3/8" diameter head roof- ing nails spaced 5-5/8 inches from bottom edge and 1/2 inch to 1-1/2 inches in from both edges. Cover the exposed fasteners with tar or cement. Cut shingle Into three pieces as shown by dotted line 1�2�3 HINGE ROOF CLOSE-UP For homes with hinged roofs, complete roofing underlayment and shingles along the hinge line (Figure 48) as follows: 1. Install underlayment. Attach the underlayment to the roof deck with a mini- mum of six-inch wide strip of cement. If necessary, trim the underlayment to al- low the lowest shingle above the hinge of the roof to seal to the topmost shingle on the lower portion of the roof. Site Install Shingles In Hinged Area Per The Instructions On The Shingle Package �pn Shipped Loose With The Home. t`� / VQpel After Roof Is In The Rased Position, Trim The Shingle Underlayment To _ Allow The Shingle Of The Upper Roof Section To Seal Onto The Last Shingle Of The Lower Roof Section. Hinge femme Underlayment Asphalt Roofing Cement Between Layers of Underlayment Minumum 6" Wide 2. Install shingles. Install missing shingles according to the shingle manufactur- er's instructions. COMPLETE TRIPLE -SECTION ROOFS Complete roofing along triple -section home marriage lines according to one of the follow- ing methods based on the construction of the home. Method 1: Manufacturer -installed sheathing 1. Fill Gaps. The gap in the sheathing at the hinge may need to be filled. A gap m of 1/4 inch or less needs not be filled. Gaps up to 1/2 inch shall be filled by 2" x 32 gauge metal flashing over the length of the gap. Gaps up to 1-1/2 inch shall be filled with 8" x 30 gauge metal flashing over the gap. Fasten the flashing to the sheathing using 1" x 1" x 16 gauge or 7/16" x 1" x 16 gauge staples at 4 inch along each edge of the flashing. 2. Install underlayment. Fold down the underlaymant of the outer section roof and apply a minimum six-inch wide strip of roofing cement to the sheathing. Lay • 1 5/25/2017 10:19 AIV1 Installing a ridge vent. If a ridge vent is to be installed, follow the ridge vent manu- facturer's instructions pro- vided with the material or as an addendum to this manual in lieu of under- layment over ridge line and shingle cap. Figure 47. Shingle cut into thirds Figure 48. Shingle installa- tion at hinge line Installing metal flashing. Install optional metal flashing over the roof decking before applying roofing cement. Fold back the underlayment and fas- ten 30 ga x 4" wide mini- mum galvanized metal with roofing nails or 16 ga x 1" crown x 1-1/4" staples. Space fasteners four inch- es o.c. or less near the edge of the metal. Overlap the metal by at least two inches at joints. I 55 .... ______....._....._.._..._... ._. _ _ _.__._......__.. _ _ _ _ _ ._..._...._._....._._._ • • Complete Roof and Exterior Walls This chapter covers closing up and weatherproofing the home by completing the roofing and siding. STEP 1. COMPLETE ROOF (p. 54) STEP 2. COMPLETE TAG UNIT ROOF (p. 56) V STEP 3. COMPLETE SIDE WALLS (p. 58) STEP 1. COMPLETE ROOF RIDGE CLOSEUP For multi -section homes, the first step in completing the exterior is sealing the roof along the ridge line (Figure 45). For homes with asphalt shingles, follow the procedure below. For homes with metal or other roofing materials, follow the instructions that come with the roofing materials or provided as a supplement to this manual. i Cap Shingle Underlayment Figure 45. Shingle installa- tion at ridge Metal - 32 Gauge / \ Factory Installed 1 I / Shingles � 0 �Ad I j Weatherproofing. It is vital- ly important to close up the Factory Installed home quickly to protect the Shingles underlayment interior from damage due to inclement weather. • • Roof Deck I i 1. Install underlayment (when sheathing at the ridge is installed on site). Make Removing shipping pro - sure the roof sheathing is already installed (see Complete Multi -Section Set, tection. Remove shipping I STEP 7. CONNECT ROOF, p. 47). Install 15# felt or equivalent continuously protection from the roof along the length of the ridge, covering all exposed sheathing and overlapping prior to completing the sheathing joints by at least five inches on each side. Fasten using 1" x 1" x 16 roofing. ga galvanized staples. For Wind Zones II and III, also apply a six inch wide strip of roofing cement along each side of ridge under the underlayment. 2. Install shingles. If shingles have been left off at the ridge line for site installa- tion, install them now using 1" x 1" x 16 ga galvanized staples or 12ga 1-1/4" long, 3/8" diameter head roof nails. For Wind Zone I, fasten at 5/8 inch above 4'i each tab cutout slot and one at each end of the shingle one inch in from the Z I 01 edge (four fasteners for a three -tab shingle) (Figure 46). For Wind Zones II and III, use two fasteners 5/8 inch above and on either side of the tab slots and one at each end of the shingle one inch in from the edge (six fasteners for a three - tab shingle). Do not fasten through the shingle tar line. I 36'Shingle i-36'Shingle I I I Figure 46.Shingle fastener Z locations for Wind Zone 1 (left) and Wind Zones ll and I X x 12F X X. . .X X- x 12^ 111(right). I J L X Fastener Locations 54 5/25/2017 10:19 AM • Gasket Wall Studs Exterior Siding --a nor Siding Underlayment Fastener TABLE 23. END WALL FASTENER SPECIFICATIONS Wood screw 1 #8 x 4" 1 24 In. o.c. MARRIAGE WALL COLUMNS, OPENINGS AND INTERIOR PARTITIONS Make connections inside the home along the marriage walls (Figure 41 and Figure 42) by installing fasteners according to the specifications and spacing requirements in Ta- ble 24. Toe screw 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 studs; through -screw 2 x 3 studs. I nterior 1; al Ar IlllilllIre Optional Fell Applied Gyp BoaN Not Less Than 24' Nor La(g r Than 46. Fasten Per Notes TABLE 24. MARRIAGE WALL CONNECTION SPECIFICATIONS Figure 40. End wall connec- tion toed through sheathing Figure 41. Marriage wall connections Figure 42. Marriage line col- umn connections 51 Z O F- CD z STEP 9. ATTACH TAG UNITS After the main unit has been set on its foundation, install all tag units according to the following procedure: 1. Position and block the tag. Position the tag unit as close to the main unit as possible at its intended location. Use a hitch jack to obtain approximate level- ing and install pier supports according to Set the Home, STEP 2. POSITION HOME SECTION (p. 35). Determine whether the tag and main unit floors are designed to line up flush or are offset by a step and adjust the tag pier heights accordingly. 2. Level the unit. Using a water level (p.40), verify that the piers are level. The elevation of all points along the lower flange of the I-beam should be within 1/4 inch of level between any adjacent piers or any eight foot distance, which- ever is less. 3. Shim gaps. Shim any gaps up to one inch between structural elements of the tag and main unit with dimensional lumber. If any gaps exceed one inch, re- position the tag to eliminate such gaps. Max. 1/4" lauan shims may be used to align the top chords of the main unit dormer and the tag. 4. Connect floors. After confirming that the floor of the tag unit is level with the main unit floor, connect the floors together as described in STEP 6. CON- NECT FLOORS (p. 46). 5. Connect walls. Secure the tag unit walls to the main unit sidewall using #8 x 4" screws at 12 inches o.c. (see Figure 43). The sheathing shown in the detail may not be included by the manufacturer. If included, the sheathing over the last stud bay was tacked in place at the factory for easy removal at the site. Once the wall connections are complete, re -install the sheathing and complete the siding installation. 6. Connect roofs. For flush roof conditions, connect the tag unit rafter top chord to the main unit dormer face frame using #8 x 3-1/2" screws at 24" o.c. as a Z� Piers under tag units. Some tag units have spe- cial piering needs due to the roof and/or floor con- struction. These will be de- tailed in supplemental pier- ing plans supplied with the home. Note that tag unit end walls are typically load bearing rather than side walls. Figure 43. Tag unit wall connection l 52 5/25/2017 10:19 Aid • • • • shown in Figure 44. Roof connections with an offset do not require screws. Main unit Tag unit -► 1" max. 2 X 3 Blocking 7 98 X saews o.c. 3 112"wood at 24" Optional Lauan shim strips. Max. 1"slum #8 X 3 12"woad saews at 24" o.c Tag Main unit dormer rafters face frame STEP 10. REMOVE TEMPORARY ITEMS Once the home is properly supported and the marriage line connections are completed, remove the temporary ridge beam supports and wall/ceiling plates used to brace the ridge beam during shipment. Take care not to damage the ceiling. Remove and store or properly dispose of or recycle the hitch, axles, and wheels. These items are the property of the homeowner unless other contractual arrangements have been made. STEP 11. FASTEN HOME TO FOUNDATION Fasten the home to the foundation (typically to the sill plate) according to the fastening schedule provided by the manufacturer. STEP 12. 13ACKFILL AND GRADE Backfill against the foundation wall to the height of the waterproofing, taking care to not damage the drainage system. Grade the site as described in Prepare the Site, STEP 3. CLEAR AND GRADE THE SITE (p.15). STEP 13. BUILD STAIRS Construct the basement stairs in compliance with the local building code. Take care that adequate headroom is maintained under beams and that there is sufficient landing space at the bottom of the stairs. 5/25/2017 10: Figure 44. Tag Unit Roof Connections When to backfill. Backfill against basement walls on- ly after the home is con- nected to the foundation or the basement walls may deflect inward or collapse. Cutting the chassis. Do not cut, notch, bend, or alter in any manner beams, cross- members, and other partsof ip the steel chassis. "OV